Experienced cue makers chip in....

Enigmaticul

Enigmaticul

Banned
Hey guys quick question

What setups do you guys use to stabilize your own wood. I really like to go to the source and find my own rare exotic burls but most of the time this woods are not stabilized. I have seen vacuum chamber setups from rockler and from wood craft but at 300+ it seems a little expensive. I was the thinking of a pirex dish a plexiglass top with rubber on the side and a vacuum pump from HF. With a gauge in top. What to you guys think? Did any of you did something like this before or did you just buy a professional setup?

Thanks


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Enigmaticul said:
Hey guys quick question

What setups do you guys use to stabilize your own wood. I really like to go to the source and find my own rare exotic burls but most of the time this woods are not stabilized. I have seen vacuum chamber setups from rockler and from wood craft but at 300+ it seems a little expensive. I was the thinking of a pirex dish a plexiglass top with rubber on the side and a vacuum pump from HF. With a gauge in top. What to you guys think? Did any of you did something like this before or did you just buy a professional setup?

Thanks


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Click to expand...

Cactus Juice sell a complete set up

Kim
 
Enigmaticul said:
Did any of you did something like this before or did you just buy a professional setup?
Click to expand...

Yes and it cost me more than the TurnTex setup. You will need to know how the stabilizing liquid will interact with the material of the vacuum chamber. Trial and error is expensive...
 
I do my own, and it's not cheap to get into, and the tank design is tricky. The grey tube that I used was about $80. It's .25" thick sides which is important so that it doesn't collapse and implode and hurt someone. Not to mention an oven to 'bake' it in after the vacuum part is done. You don't want top use your kitchen one. The colors of the woods also leaches into the fluid, so I have to separate the old and new fluids depending on how light or dark colored the woods are. At $100 a gallon, it adds up.
I recommend doing it outdoors if possible due to the odors/fumes.
BTW, there is no cheap way to do it.
Heres a link,
http://www.turntex.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=121
hope this helps.
Dave

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quit even trying

don't you guys know it takes 4000 pounds of pressure to stablize wood, and thats the truth because i read it on azb :)
 
Dam that is crazy expensive to get into. I guess I will stick to pre stabilized woods for now. Thanks all for the great input.


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Call me silly, but I always figured if you need to stabilize a piece of wood, it probably is not the best material to make a cue out of. Kind of an unnatural oxymoron.

After you do stabilize it, it is like something that is wood but not, as it gets really heavy.

So I limit the wood I use to build my cues to 6 or 7 species most of the time.

JMO,

Rick
 
So exactly what woods won't you use? Between coring and stabilization your concerns shouldn't be concerns imho.
 
scdiveteam said:
Call me silly, but I always figured if you need to stabilize a piece of wood, it probably is not the best material to make a cue out of. Kind of an unnatural oxymoron.

After you do stabilize it, it is like something that is wood but not, as it gets really heavy.

So I limit the wood I use to build my cues to 6 or 7 species most of the time.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...

Actually, not an oxymoron, as you are stabilizing an Unstable piece of wood. Oxymoron would be trying to stabilize a very stable piece of wood....
Stabilizing combined with coring can create some very nice cues that play well and look amazing with nature's artwork. An example, spalted maple, no weight bolt comes in at 19 oz with a solid maple core:
DSCN1017.jpg

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DSCN1010.jpg
 
That is your words and interpretation Dave.

All I did was post my opinion.

Surly I am entitled to one.

Rick
 
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