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darmoose

Shutin@urhole is OVERATED
Silver Member
I recently purchased an antique 1939 Brunswick "20th Century" 9 ft table in almost pristine condition. We removed the dried out cushions that appeared to be k66's. But, the information on here was that this table should have the k55's. We bought and installed the k55's, and when I went to test the rails the CB would jump up in the air at almost all speeds.:( We shimmed and brainstormed trying to stop the bouncing up, to no avail.:mad: Another mechanic suggested the table should take k66's and they would solve the problem.:unsure:

Removed the k55's and ordered the k66's, but while waiting for them I reached out to Glen the RKC by phone who spent about an hour on the phone with me discussing numerous considerations for setting up an antique T rail table. Somewhere along the discussions Glen, after eliminating all the possible causes of my dilemma, asked me a very simple question.:oops:

"when you tested the k55 rails, did you have the cloth installed?"......ruh-roh.....🤪me:"why no we didn't, should we have?" He chuckled a little and said that's a NO-NO. Glen guaranteed me that if we installed the rail cloth and retested...all would be right with the world.....Nooo, says I, you're kidding.:eek: In all my reading on this forum I never saw this mentioned anywhere....😩

Sooo, back onto ONE rail goes the k55 to retest.....and wouldn't you know it...NO MORE BOUNCE, at all.....Nirvana...:giggle:

So I wanna give a BIG SHOUT OUT to Glen the RKC for holding my hand and edumicating me....Thank you so much Glen!! You are first class. 🙂(y)
 
darmoose said:
I recently purchased an antique 1939 Brunswick "20th Century" 9 ft table in almost pristine condition. We removed the dried out cushions that appeared to be k66's. But, the information on here was that this table should have the k55's. We bought and installed the k55's, and when I went to test the rails the CB would jump up in the air at almost all speeds.:( We shimmed and brainstormed trying to stop the bouncing up, to no avail.:mad: Another mechanic suggested the table should take k66's and they would solve the problem.:unsure:

Removed the k55's and ordered the k66's, but while waiting for them I reached out to Glen the RKC by phone who spent about an hour on the phone with me discussing numerous considerations for setting up an antique T rail table. Somewhere along the discussions Glen, after eliminating all the possible causes of my dilemma, asked me a very simple question.:oops:

"when you tested the k55 rails, did you have the cloth installed?"......ruh-roh.....🤪me:"why no we didn't, should we have?" He chuckled a little and said that's a NO-NO. Glen guaranteed me that if we installed the rail cloth and retested...all would be right with the world.....Nooo, says I, you're kidding.:eek: In all my reading on this forum I never saw this mentioned anywhere....😩

Sooo, back onto ONE rail goes the k55 to retest.....and wouldn't you know it...NO MORE BOUNCE, at all.....Nirvana...:giggle:

So I wanna give a BIG SHOUT OUT to Glen the RKC for holding my hand and edumicating me....Thank you so much Glen!! You are first class. 🙂(y)
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Sounds like you got a sweet table! Pics would be great.
 
darmoose said:
I recently purchased an antique 1939 Brunswick "20th Century" 9 ft table in almost pristine condition. We removed the dried out cushions that appeared to be k66's. But, the information on here was that this table should have the k55's. We bought and installed the k55's, and when I went to test the rails the CB would jump up in the air at almost all speeds.:( We shimmed and brainstormed trying to stop the bouncing up, to no avail.:mad: Another mechanic suggested the table should take k66's and they would solve the problem.:unsure:

Removed the k55's and ordered the k66's, but while waiting for them I reached out to Glen the RKC by phone who spent about an hour on the phone with me discussing numerous considerations for setting up an antique T rail table. Somewhere along the discussions Glen, after eliminating all the possible causes of my dilemma, asked me a very simple question.:oops:

"when you tested the k55 rails, did you have the cloth installed?"......ruh-roh.....🤪me:"why no we didn't, should we have?" He chuckled a little and said that's a NO-NO. Glen guaranteed me that if we installed the rail cloth and retested...all would be right with the world.....Nooo, says I, you're kidding.:eek: In all my reading on this forum I never saw this mentioned anywhere....😩

Sooo, back onto ONE rail goes the k55 to retest.....and wouldn't you know it...NO MORE BOUNCE, at all.....Nirvana...:giggle:

So I wanna give a BIG SHOUT OUT to Glen the RKC for holding my hand and edumicating me....Thank you so much Glen!! You are first class. 🙂(y)
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No problem buddy, I got a good laugh out of this, and it didn't even cost you a dime, I've helping out when ever I can😉
 
OK...so I am sorry I did not include some pictures for youse guys, thought I would remedy that this morning. It's a beautiful morning here in Maryland and here goes......😍
 

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Nice table. Are there additional aprons that drop the same distance as the pocket castings?

What's the scoop on the tape?
 
rexus31 said:
Nice table. Are there additional aprons that drop the same distance as the pocket castings?

What's the scoop on the tape?
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Yes, there are aprons that attach to the pocket castings and they are in nice shape. I just haven't gotten that far yet. There is also a ball rack that mounts on the foot rail end above the ball return, nice to have for one pocket.

Ok, the tape....you prolly can't see in the pictures, but I have penciled in on the tape what the original pockets were (5", maybe 5 1/4") and what my new pockets will be (4 1/2" on the corners and 5" on the sides) along with the proper angles of 140 and 102. I am using 3/8" plywood and rubber facings to reduce all the pockets. I also centered the original side pockets that were slightly off center.
 
Following up with some additional information on the 1939 "20th Century" Brunswick I have just completed. I took these corner pockets from 5+ inches down to 4.5" and 5" on the side pockets. Having read everything on here about antique tables and wanting my table to play well I took great pains to work as meticulously as I was capable of doing, using mostly hand tools, a couple of power saws, and a dremel. I took special note of comments on here about trying to eliminate the "thunk" on the T rails by filling the space from slate to frame due to leveling shims. I also understand RKC's point about the amount of mass behind the cushion nose as being important for rail performance, but as of yet i haven't figured out how to improve on that. I am thinking about adding wood to the outside of T rails, but there are several asthetic concerns to ponder.

Anyway, here are the final results so far. I have also built a 2' x 8' led light, 5000k to hang over the table. I am very satisfied with how this table plays, although I know there is still a slight difference between this and the gold crowns I play on at my local pool room primarily in the slight noise I still get from the ball/rail contact. i would love to get rid of that if anyone has any ideas???

Thanks for looking....:)
 

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gazman100 said:
What didn't you like about it :)
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The sharp pointed corner castings stick up a bit and the table is on the ugly side. $12.000 for 5" corners and another like $1500 to get the tournament verson so its the same a Diamont factory spec. No thanks
 
jtompilot said:
the same a Diamont factory spec.
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It will never be to Diamond factory spec. It will only have a 4.5" pocket, but will play nothing like a Diamond. In fact, the more you tighten the pocket on that table , the SHALLOWER the shelf gets. The GC was designed to pocket balls. The deep slate shelf is what makes the Diamond play tough. Pretty sure you know all of this, but, maybe you did not.

TFT
 
jtompilot said:
Nice looking table. Is that gold cloth?

My wife and I looked at a GC6 today, I’m not impressed and my wife didn’t like it.
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It's definitely not a gloss IV. The gloss 4 with a silver Simonis is THE TABLE
Took a ride with Tom to look at a VI in Lauderdale a while ago.
Hated it the moment we walked in the door. Closer we got the uglier it got. Brunswick forgot to use a finish on the aprons. The matt black looks pretty bad. And the pocket castings ...forgetaboutit.
 
GoldCrown said:
It's definitely not a gloss IV. The gloss 4 with a silver Simonis is THE TABLE
Took a ride with Tom to look at a VI in Lauderdale a while ago.
Hated it the moment we walked in the door. Closer we got the uglier it got. Brunswick forgot to use a finish on the aprons. The matt black looks pretty bad. And the pocket castings ...forgetaboutit.
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Silver or Grey?
 
GoldCrown said:
Gray. Looks silver but called gray. I refer to it as silver. Slate Simonis is too dark of a grey/silver.
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Funny thing is AMA put grey Simonis on the bar boxes at Buffalo's, everyone I've talked to says it looks gold or some kind of tan color. I'll take a pic of it next week
 
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