He only had two shafts total in his shop, so it wouldn't be him.
Where is your buddy hiding these days?
Failure, Again
- Thread starter fatsix
- Start date
Where is your buddy hiding these days?
Yea but he spent a whole week cutting from inch round to final taper so they should be good to go!
<~~~the soap has rope so it doesn't get dropped.....where else would candy and gum be standard currency....just a guess......not for sure...
Nothing wrong with that if it how you choose to make your bread butter. Most doing so will at least use a different (better quality) shaft when exercising there skills though. There's a dollar to made everyday if you're willing to do what it takes to make it.
Let us know how it turns out for you.
Since the only thing a pin does is hold the shaft against the joint in a straight line and when proper ball contact is made the pressure goes from the shaft face directly to the joint face I can not see how this could happen unless the shaft had been damaged (cracked) before contact (perhaps dropping cue on floor) or the user bent the shaft to much while breaking. If this happened to a cue that I built and this happened this quickly I certainly would have replaced the shaft although I don't believe it could have possibly been something that I caused. There is no way I would replace a second time as I am sure that it has to be user error. You can look at the break and see that it cracked, not parallel to the grain lines but vertically to them. This had to be forces not normally, naturally, encountered by a shaft.
My 2 cents worth,
Dick
My 2 cents worth,
Dick
To keep that wood to wood joint and increase stability throw a phenolic insert in and re-tap. Then you won't have any splitting at all and the collars will match up. Maybe the cue maker would consider doing that when he sends back another shaft. I am no expert but why in the world would you drill such long length hole compared to the pin size even if you don't have a bottoming tap? It would bother me as a cue maker to have that gap in there, I can see a little gap but my god a half inch is just unacceptable.
Eric Wynne
Banned
No doubt some kind of side load was put on the cue ... Looks like a little runnout in the grain of the wood also ... Shouldn't split from impact on tip ... I treat female threads with thin CA then retap ... Might help your situation some , but some sort of collar would prevent what happened ... 
Grain lines are measured in the dowel, when it is 1" in diameter. A finished shaft diameter is a little ove .800", so that piece of wood probably had 8 grain lines to the INCH...JER
Wondering what state the repairer of this cue lives in? And reusing the same tip??? They cost pennies for a one piece tip so why would anyone reuse it??? Also wondering how much the shaft weighs? You said it was 13mm with a fairly stiff taper???
bob danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
bob danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
Take the money and run..........
No doubt some kind of side load was put on the cue ... Looks like a little runnout in the grain of the wood also ... Shouldn't split from impact on tip ... I treat female threads with thin CA then retap ... Might help your situation some , but some sort of collar would prevent what happened ...
Finally the truth prevails. I agree wholehartedly
JER. If the dia at the joint is .850 then it would figure out to be 7.05 GR's/inch. I still would not use it for a first quality shaft. But again that's just my opinion. I do agree with those who advise using a ring.
Hello to all. I just happened upon this post (it would have been nice if the buyer would have made me aware of this post so that I could have responded sooner). The cue in question is one of mine. I'm going to respond to this publicaly just to give my side of the story and then anything else is between myself and the buyer. First of all this IS the only instance that I am aware of anyone breaking a shaft on one of my cues and it has happened twice with the same buyer. The first time it happened I offerred the buyer a brand new replacement cue, he didn't want it. Instead we replaced the shaft for free and also paid shipping to send it back (not sure where the $45.00 in buyer shipping came from since shipping and paypal fees are included in a cue purchase). When we inspected the shaft it appeared to be a 50-50 manufacturing vrs. misuse issue so we just replaced it. The cue comes standard with a Kamui tip and it wasn't that old so we re-used that tip (contrary to what someone posted these do not cost $1.00 more or less). When I was contacted this time around, I again offered to replace the shaft pending inspection. I was accused of selling a cue with a known manufacturing defect and the buyer wanted a 100% refund. I was also told in a later e-mail that there is now a chip in the finish on the butt....? My response was as qouted...send the whole cue back and after we inspect it I'll issue the appropriate refund.
It was stated to me that both times the shaft broke it was when the 120# wife was breaking with the cue. I've got a guy in Canada who is about 6' 5" and 240# who power breaks with one of my jump/break cues with no joint collar or shaft insert and has not complained but rather praised the cue. I wasn't crazy about a break shaft with no collar but it was his choice. I'm not a believer in breaking with a shooting cue but if you own it it's your choice.
My offer to inspect the cue and either replace the shaft for free if it is deemed a manufacturing defect or issue a partial refund still stands. I will not commit to a free shaft replacement or to a full refund without inspecting the cue. Would any of the cue builders who have responed to this post?
Not looking to accuse the buyer of abusing the cue but I am also not closing the door on anything INCLUDING a manufacturing defect.
It was stated to me that both times the shaft broke it was when the 120# wife was breaking with the cue. I've got a guy in Canada who is about 6' 5" and 240# who power breaks with one of my jump/break cues with no joint collar or shaft insert and has not complained but rather praised the cue. I wasn't crazy about a break shaft with no collar but it was his choice. I'm not a believer in breaking with a shooting cue but if you own it it's your choice.
My offer to inspect the cue and either replace the shaft for free if it is deemed a manufacturing defect or issue a partial refund still stands. I will not commit to a free shaft replacement or to a full refund without inspecting the cue. Would any of the cue builders who have responed to this post?
Not looking to accuse the buyer of abusing the cue but I am also not closing the door on anything INCLUDING a manufacturing defect.
I did one once too. same thread, no collar, made from a dufferin. I did reuse the shaft portion from another dufferin, and I made It a stiff taper, and pretty much left the joint fairly fat so there was plenty of meat around the pin. The cue played great for a couple of months or more with no problems. I was using It to play on the smaller tables one night, both breaking and shooting with It. I got on a roll feeling pretty good, then went to snap off a rack, and It exploded. I could feel the flex in the shaft and then the point where it could flex no more, that's when It came apart. There are several reasons something like this could happen, for me It was a hard break and a really stiff taper, maybe a more flexible taper would solve the problem. The best cure I know of for me would have been a collar. I've never had this problem with 3/8 pins on any of My other cues with collars, never even had the threads strip.
Apparently it was figured out to be 100% my fault. No explanation, just an offer of $80 back or pay $50 for another junk shaft. It would never have gotten fixed properly. I guess you get what you pay for. BTW: the new GSIRCA is the tits. I dont have to worry about it falling apart in her hands now.
Yah..... whatever Poolfool1957
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I have done wood threads since day one, never treated them with super glue either but I would never do one without a phenolic collar and Never had one split. The only thing I put in the hole is sanding sealer so it doesn't squeak, then chase with a tap when it dries. Something about that picture showed puzzles me but I just can't put my finger on it. I'm officially stumped.