Ferrule adhesives?

Tokyo-dave

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I popped the ferrule on my break cue last night and am wanting to glue it back on. The ferrule is reusable as I've cleaned it up and refaced it along with the tennon, so I'm just stuck as to what type of glue to use. I live in Japan, so I'm limited as to what's at my disposal simply because I wouldn't know the Japanese names of the different kind of adhesives that are preferreable. I'm tempted to go with a regular Elmers type wood glue as I'm afraid that any kind of a 'super glue' type product will make the ferrule impossible to replace without damaging the shaft in the event that I need to change the ferrule in the future.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
dave
 
> As long as there was no tenon damage,and you are just sliding it back on (assuming it wasn't threaded,if it was I don't see how it could have come off without taking the tenon with it),you can use an epoxy to make sure it never happens again,but this might leave a glue line. When doing threaded ferrules with a glue relief hole,white or yellow glue is preferable. It leaves practically no glue traces,can be removed easily with a heat gun if need be,and is more than strong enough to keep it there forever if there are no other problems. I've also seen people use a yellow glue down inside the ferrule,screw it down close to the bottom,and use thin CA to lock it down. Tommy D.
 
Yeah, it's not a threaded tenon, and other than some glue dumplings that I managed to clean off, neither the ferrule or the tenon are damaged. I need a little more help with the term epoxy though. I would have a hard time going to a shop here in Japan and trying to explain that I need an epoxy when I don't even know what exactly it means. Can you give me a little more help as in examples as to what I might look for. In other words, when I go to a local hardware store, obviously they guy won't know what in the world a ferrule job means, so I will need to tell him that I need the kind of glue (or something similar to) that is used for:????
Sorry for the ignorance, but being in a foreign country has it's limitations.
Thanks,
dave
 
Hi Dave, I always use a 2 part epoxy. Devcon when available and preferrably the clear. It works great with most all materials. I've never had any problems with it. Hope this helps! Brian
 
Try Technodyne which is a room temperature curing 2-part epoxy or Technoply which is a specialty adhesive for musical instruments. They have a Tokyo and an Osaka sales office. Call them for info on their retail outlet at TEL.81-3-3231-1866

By the way, Technodyne and Technoply are Japanese brands, made and developed in Japan. Wakarimashita ka?
 
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Say what you will

But I have ALWAYS had good luck with $1.49 super glue at QuikTrip.

Within last year or so:

1) Had layer seperation on a Hercules layered tip. Super glue the top back on and no problems. (happened when I broke with my Sneaky Pete).
2) Had a J&J break cue ferrule come loose, super glued it back on and
no problems. The ferrule is the 1/2" phenolic breaking ferrule.
3) Phenolic tip later popped off of it, had a cuemaker put a new one on,
and it came off about 6 breaks into it, put it back on with super glue, and
no problems since.

As they say, the proof is in the pudding.... lol
 
Snapshot9 said:
But I have ALWAYS had good luck with $1.49 super glue at QuikTrip.

Within last year or so:

1) Had layer seperation on a Hercules layered tip. Super glue the top back on and no problems. (happened when I broke with my Sneaky Pete).
2) Had a J&J break cue ferrule come loose, super glued it back on and
no problems. The ferrule is the 1/2" phenolic breaking ferrule.
3) Phenolic tip later popped off of it, had a cuemaker put a new one on,
and it came off about 6 breaks into it, put it back on with super glue, and
no problems since.

As they say, the proof is in the pudding.... lol

I hope you do not build cues, however I suppose they would be glued together Super. :D

Craig
 
Guys, guys...Tokyo-Dave, the thread initiator, asked for the ferrule-tenon glue then asked for what it's called or how to describe in Japan.
 
bandido said:
Guys, guys...Tokyo-Dave, the thread initiator, asked for the ferrule-tenon glue then asked for what it's called or how to describe in Japan.
Edwin,

Would you recommend using contact cement or wood glue?

Thank you in advanced.

Richard
 
nipponbilliards said:
Edwin,

Would you recommend using contact cement or wood glue?

Thank you in advanced.

Richard
As the primary for Ferrule-to-tenon? Neither. I listed a Japanese 2-part epoxy brand, Technodyne, for him to check-out. I use epoxy for the tenon-ferrule and just use something else on the ferrule to shaft contact face to avoid darkening the wood in that area.
 
bandido said:
As the primary for Ferrule-to-tenon? Neither. I listed a Japanese 2-part epoxy brand, Technodyne, for him to check-out. I use epoxy for the tenon-ferrule and just use something else on the ferrule to shaft contact face to avoid darkening the wood in that area.



I use a 2 part epoxy also, I was starting to feel like I was the only one, and there was something wrong with that, altough I have changed out as many ferrules where epoxy had been used, as vis versa. Glad to see I'm not the only one. I'm assuming the reason some use the other glues are for blending the faces in, and to make them easier to remove for replacement, and I can see the advantages, just happy with the way I'm doing them. Just different strokes I suppose. I've used wood/white glue on the faces for the reason mentioned, but seems that I can live with the epoxy on threaded tenons if I just thin the face parts out with it, but i do like to load more glue up around the faces on the slip tenons to make sure I have decent adhesion without the mechanical bond present. Greg
 
Hey Joey,

Please pardon the picture, but is this what your refering to, the waterproof stuff? The good points definatly interest me, but what about the bond? Does It hold up well with most materials, and what about slip tenons, as I do both depending on the job. I had alot of breakdowns come in from wood glue, but these were on older cues, so probably well before this stuffs time anyhow, and time had just taken it's toll. If It holds as well as epoxy, but is easier to remove and cleanup, then I'm all ears. It's good glue I know already, but I have never tried a ferrule with it. Guess I should test one out and see.
The thing about the epoxy Is It holds very well for me, but If a ferrule cracks It can be painstaking to clean up, I admitt that. The face thing is not enough that It bothers me if the bond is good, and does'nt effect the hit in a bad way.

Thanks,
Greg
 

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Cue Crazy said:
Hey Joey,

Please pardon the picture, but is this what your refering to, the waterproof stuff? The good points definatly interest me, but what about the bond? Does It hold up well with most materials, and what about slip tenons, as I do both depending on the job. I had alot of breakdowns come in from wood glue, but these were on older cues, so probably well before this stuffs time anyhow, and time had just taken it's toll. If It holds as well as epoxy, but is easier to remove and cleanup, then I'm all ears. It's good glue I know already, but I have never tried a ferrule with it. Guess I should test one out and see.
The thing about the epoxy Is It holds very well for me, but If a ferrule cracks It can be painstaking to clean up, I admitt that. The face thing is not enough that It bothers me if the bond is good, and does'nt effect the hit in a bad way.

Thanks,
Greg
That's the one. It's bond is stronger than wood ( 3750 psi strength rating )
I only do threaded ferrules so I don't know how it performs on slip-ons.
 
JoeyInCali said:
That's the one. It's bond is stronger than wood ( 3750 psi strength rating )
I only do threaded ferrules so I don't know how it performs on slip-ons.




Thank you there bud,

My mechanical bond is real good now days, so I'll give it a shot on those, because that's the hardest cleanup anyhow. The slip does,nt matter as much on that, so i'll just stick with what i'm doing on those until I know better.

Much apprietiated,

Greg
 
I use TiteBond for my leather wrap, and I usually use contact cement for threaded ferrule. I will try Titebond for the ferrule since it is recommended.

I have tried Loctite on threaded ferrules and the line at the shoulder is not really obvious.

What would you recommend for hiding the line at the shoulder? Also, what would be the problem(s) of using Loctite?

Richard
 
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