In post 139 of a thread dealing with low deflection ferrules for carbon shafts, joey said: . . . "Hey Henry, you really have no clue what's going on . The most popular ferrule configuration is 5/16 18 at 1" long and capped . Even at 5/16, and no thread , mine is still lighter . High deflection ferrules ? Good Lord . You think making a pressfit thin wall ferrule speaks better for your cue making abilities ???? WTH? Anybody can do that . Go ahead, make yours with thin wall and pressfit them . Let's see how long till you see glue ring at the bottom and that slip-on move" . . . .
Obviously joey doesn't understand what a glue line is. He believes it's a result of the ferrule coming loose. I wanted to comment on that but that thread got closed.
In the present thread a glue ring is properly attributed to adhesive soaking into wood end grain at the ferrule/shaft glue joint. Diver has done a neat experiment IMO and you can definitely see how colorants can lessen the glue ring. Diver's experiment is also noteworthy in that it shows that the glue ring has nothing to do with whether or not the ferrule is threaded. This is obvious since diver's ferrules were held in place during glueup using clamps (rather than threads). Those clamps IMO would produce adequate force to eliminate the glue ring (like threads supposedly do).
I want to reemphasize that I shot A LOT of pool using Predator Z2 shafts. They have thin walled, slip on ferrules. I never had a ferrule come loose during YEARS of that usage. Based on that I see no reason to thread a ferrule. The fact is, a threaded ferrule has more mass and contributes to additional deflection. And, now, this thread has properly eliminated the myth that a threaded ferrule mitigates the glue ring.
Finally, I recall that Joe Barranger, years ago, said that the reason he used West System 205(?) hardener was because it eliminated the glue ring. He said this in one of his videos I believe.
Ok as a fly on the wall, that thread was informational as well as entertaining. Some aspects of cue making are just personal preference, style, habitual processes, years of experience (good and bad), historical lore which may be outdated and now internet misinformation adds to the mix.
I appreciate and learn from all of the information that came from your argument, keep on topic and please don't get my thread shut down lol.
I wouldn't say this eliminates the threaded versus non-threaded ferrules mitigates the glue line. Yes, you cannot see the line, but that does not mean it is not there. I did not do an experiment with threaded ferrules, so I am missing that data to compare this to. There are plenty of examples of cue makers that are able to eliminate the glue lines with their technique of choice. As I said above, I currently do both depending on the situation. I am doing mostly repairs on all kinds of cues and only a few new shafts, so I have not fully settled on my preference.
I agree a lighter ferrule will reduce deflection, but in my limited opinion the small amount of extra ferrule material (if you are not using some heavy ass material) isn't going to affect you that much. My normal cue right now has a Pechauer Pro+ LD shaft. My conversion cue I keep at the bar has a regular shaft with a 1" ferrule. I feel I play the same with both, so whatever difference there is I must adjust to it quickly. So, the tiny difference in the thinner walled ferrule shouldn't affect the player that much.
Not questioning your reasoning on this or the experience with your Predator ferrule, but so far, the repairs I have done that have excessive ferrule damage have been shafts like Predator and OB (see examples) Of course, thicker ferrules have cracked but not shattered or snapped off making them unusable. I'm not counting bar cues since they are abused and usually have cheap ferrules on them. 100% of all ferrules I have worked on that are loose are not threaded. This is why if I am doing a non-threaded ferrule, I always make circumferential groves to make a glue lock. This is difficult to do if the ferrule walls are already very thin. I think the benefits of a thicker ferrule out weight the cons of a very thin-walled ferrule just to get a slight decrease in deflection.
