Ferrule Replacement; End of Shaft Wobble

S

speedi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I need to replace the ferrule on an old shaft. The last 2-3 inches of the shaft have some wobble. After clamping the shaft into the plastic collet and into the 3-jaw chuck the runout is still very noticeable and I haven't been able to reduce it enough to feel comfortable to start turning.
I'm getting anywhere from .012" to .030" runout at the tip after a lot of fussing. Does anyone have a suggestion for getting this shaft to run true?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Speedi
 
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speedi said:
I need to replace the ferrule on an old shaft. The last 2-3 inches of the shaft have some wobble. After clamping the shaft into the plastic collet and into the 3-jaw chuck the runout is still very noticeable and I haven't been able to reduce it enough to feel comfortable to start turning.
I'm getting anywhere from .012" to .030" runout at the tip after a lot of fussing. Does anyone have a suggestion for getting this shaft to run true?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Speedi
Click to expand...

Chuck it up as close to the ferrule as possible. Clamp.... check it. Unclamp,, turn it 1/3 turn and reclamp the check it again.

Shim the chuck with strips of paper or card stock ... depending on how far you have to move it.........

Lo,
 
Don't use the collet. Tape it and clamp it in the jaws. Then do as the poster above says.
 
I had my repair lathe set up with a 4 jaw chuck. I got pretty fast at using it and was very happy with the fine tuning it would offer me. I used it on every tip or ferrule job. If you are using a Taig based lathe they are about $80 I think.
 
4 jaw chuck is the way to go on these tough ones :( (and I'm talking the 4 jaw type where you can adjust each jaw by itself...just for clarification) You can eventually get there by shimming if its really bad though. Using cardstock, regular typing paper, then cigarette rolling papers.

One other thing I've ran into, is make sure the shaft is round. Sometimes on older shafts where people sand on them or use the green pads, they will get egg shaped, and no amount of shimming well let it run true on your indicator.
 
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JAlan said:
4 jaw chuck is the way to go on these tough ones :( (and I'm talking the 4 jaw type where you can adjust each jaw by itself...just for clarification) You can eventually get there by shimming if its really bad though. Using cardstock, regular typing paper, then cigarette rolling papers.

One other thing I've ran into, is make sure the shaft is round. Sometimes on older shafts where people sand on them or use the green pads, they will get egg shaped, and no amount of shimming well let it run true on your indicator.
Click to expand...

You are right...... I have seen quite a few shafts that are egg shaped. You have no choice but to put the ferrule on and finish the cut by filing the high side until it matches the shaft wood. If you polish it nice, you can't tell.

Kim
 
I didnt even realize shimming the shaft was possible. Thanks for sharing! My Hightower book is great but to see tips like this from you gents is fantastic. Im just a do-it-yourself'er (taking care of my own cues) and to get an insight like this is invaluable :thumbup:

~Roy
 
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