Ferrule tricks?

Greatblzofire

Greatblzofire

Neil Olsen Custom Cues
Silver Member
Just curious to find out some of your tricks for polishing or treating ferrules to get them to resist absorbing chalk and dirt? I am having issues with this. I am mainly using LBM or Aegis.

I just started sealing the ferrule with some thin CA and sanding it out to 2000 grit. Only time will tell of that helps.

Does anybody have any other suggestions or tips?
 
Greatblzofire said:
Just curious to find out some of your tricks for polishing or treating ferrules to get them to resist absorbing chalk and dirt? I am having issues with this. I am mainly using LBM or Aegis.

I just started sealing the ferrule with some thin CA and sanding it out to 2000 grit. Only time will tell of that helps.

Does anybody have any other suggestions or tips?
Click to expand...

There are no tricks.

First if you or the person using the cue does not know how to chalk a tip without grinding it into the ferrule they need to learn how.

Second the material the ferrule is made from has a lot to do with how well it resists chalk and how easy it cleans off.

Material like Ivory and Ivorex will be easier to clean.
If the ferrule is polished it will also resist chalk.

Willee
 
Sealer

I use the hot stuff thin, and have had good results. I have also used sanding sealer, but the hot stuff brand is far and away the best I've used. I have tried other brands as well, but the hot stuff its very clear, and goes on smooth. Remind your customers to wipe their shaft down after use.....sounds almost condescending, but its really the best medicine. Amazing how many guys or gals don't have a small towel in their case.
 
Greatblzofire said:
Just curious to find out some of your tricks for polishing or treating ferrules to get them to resist absorbing chalk and dirt? I am having issues with this. I am mainly using LBM or Aegis.

I just started sealing the ferrule with some thin CA and sanding it out to 2000 grit. Only time will tell of that helps.

Does anybody have any other suggestions or tips?
Click to expand...


Use a different material:

Aegis while very hard and durable is also very porous depending upon the material, in my opinion it is kinda inconsistent.

LBM is good but it will still get dirty depending upon how the person using the cue applies Chalk, there are two types of players where chalk is concerned.

a. Grinders - These people drill a hole through the Chalk and don't realize that Chalk is an abrasive, go their ferrules will have circular groves cut into them no matter what you do or put on the ferrule to help seal it's surface.

b. Brusher's - These people apply Chalk correctly by applying it with a Brushing motion over the surface of the tip. In most cases people who do this have clean ferrules that need little maintenance, and their Chalk will last and last and last, because in place of the hole in the center it wears flat and evenly.


I would contact masonh here on the forum, he sells some Yellow Marcarta solid rod that he has manufactured, it is Super strong, and not really porous so it holds up against most abuse better than what you are currently using.

JIMO
 
WilleeCue said:
There are no tricks.

First if you or the person using the cue does not know how to chalk a tip without grinding it into the ferrule they need to learn how.

Second the material the ferrule is made from has a lot to do with how well it resists chalk and how easy it cleans off.

Material like Ivory and Ivorex will be easier to clean.
If the ferrule is polished it will also resist chalk.

Willee
Click to expand...

Now Willee, that was just mean. People can't be expected to take care of their cues while playing. You have grind that chaulk in and use at least a pound of powder and always knock your cue against the table to knock off any loose material that might be on your tip. LOL
 
I just had this conversation with another cue maker yesterday because I was working on some ferrules. I sand mine to 2000, then polish with compound. He said it won't matter. The chalk will still get in there if the person doesn't know how to chalk a cue. He's right. Chalk is quite abrasive.
 
Sealing with super glue helps some ferrules resist chalk. There is not much else that I know of to do.
 
Hi,

Shafts you get for repair that have been sanded lower at the ferrule wood interface can be fixed by smearing SG Gel on the wood after cleaning. Spray some water over it so it cures fast. Then blend the shaft to the ferrule.

Some bad shafts need this to be done a few times.

Rick g
 
Its amazing how many players don't know how to chalk a cue tip. For one i cant stand the masters blue chalk. I like silvercup white.
 
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like there is no magic bullet. If I find anything that works well, then I will be sure to share.
 
You're on the right track with the superglue.
The trick is to keep those problem ferrules SUPER clean until you're able to get the glue on. Seal them up right after cutting them down, dont' even tip it first. Once you fill all the little pores, (might take a couple coats) you should be good to go. It will eventually wear off, it just depends on how well it's treated by the owner.
Some materials, if they're not sealed up, even the most cautious and conscientious chalkers will eventually get them dirty.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I just had this conversation with another cue maker yesterday because I was working on some ferrules. I sand mine to 2000, then polish with compound. He said it won't matter. The chalk will still get in there if the person doesn't know how to chalk a cue. He's right. Chalk is quite abrasive.
Click to expand...
I clean my Ivory Ferrells with a Car polish and they looks still new and clean
hope you work on my Cue, not forget to make it lighter:D
 
I knew one guy that would wear a ring right through the middle of the ferrule, new ferrule or not. Maybe metal would have suited him better? Sealing with super glue or anything else is still better than nothing.
 
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