Ferrules is coming loose!

The Prodigy

Professional Racker
Silver Member
Hey guys, I seemed to have apparently damaged my shaft, the ferrule is coming loose. I can move it up and down about a millimeter. It has a pinging noise when I hit with it. I decided to not shoot with it until I can do something about it, I am afraid about breaking the ferrule. I have a D-3 McDermott Cue, and from the research I have done they only made them from 84-90. The shaft is original, but the ferrule I am not sure about, also I just had a new tip put on a few weeks ago. The new tip is a multi layered, plays mediocre but it glazes over VERY FAST and it REALLY annoys me. Cutting does the layers on a layered tip doesnt hurt it does it? The tip installer told me that the tip plays to mushy with so many layers it had on it so he removed a few.
 
McDermott ferrules are threaded and glued on... if the glue breaks it unscrews it doesn't slide.. that's how they do it now... I assumed that's how they always did it... but could be wrong.. and if I am someone will be along shortly to correct me LOL:grin-square: :thumbup:
 
IA8baller said:
Make the 2 1/2 to 3 hr drive up to my place and I'll put a new ferrule and tip on for you. :smile:

make the 2 1/2 to 3 hour trip north to my place and I'll show you how to use it LOL

:thumbup: kidding:thumbup:kidding :thumbup:kidding :thumbup:

no seriously tho... come play me ........
 
softshot said:
McDermott ferrules are threaded and glued on... if the glue breaks it unscrews it doesn't slide.. that's how they do it now... I assumed that's how they always did it... but could be wrong.. and if I am someone will be along shortly to correct me LOL:grin-square: :thumbup:
Mcd's threads are kind weak. They only thread the top.
 
I took it to Randy owner of Opies Pool Hall, he just slid the ferrule right off and put some sort of epoxy on it, holds fine now. Just need to do some clean up work, but I also noticed there is a super small gap between the ferrule and the shaft. Should I be worried about this? Softshot, I google mapped your city, and your WAY north of me. I would love to play people from AZ but I will be very honest with you, I have only played pool for a year now. If your willing to instruct then maybe we can work something out. Do you accept beer or liquior as legal tender?:grin:
 
The Prodigy said:
I took it to Randy owner of Opies Pool Hall, he just slid the ferrule right off and put some sort of epoxy on it, holds fine now. Just need to do some clean up work, but I also noticed there is a super small gap between the ferrule and the shaft. Should I be worried about this? rin:
It's going to put more stress on the epoxy and tenon b/c the bottom is not totally square with the shoulder.
 
The Prodigy said:
I took it to Randy owner of Opies Pool Hall, he just slid the ferrule right off and put some sort of epoxy on it, holds fine now. Just need to do some clean up work, but I also noticed there is a super small gap between the ferrule and the shaft. Should I be worried about this? Softshot, I google mapped your city, and your WAY north of me. I would love to play people from AZ but I will be very honest with you, I have only played pool for a year now. If your willing to instruct then maybe we can work something out. Do you accept beer or liquior as legal tender?:grin:

Grain Belt Premium is accepted as legal tender in my house :thumbup:
 
The Prodigy said:
I took it to Randy owner of Opies Pool Hall, he just slid the ferrule right off and put some sort of epoxy on it, holds fine now. Just need to do some clean up work, but I also noticed there is a super small gap between the ferrule and the shaft. Should I be worried about this?

It will probably be fine, but to be done correctly both the ferrule and the end of your cue where the ferrule meets the wood should be faced off completely flat, usually by a lathe, and no, or such a small amount, of glue/epoxy should be in the space where the ferrule/wood meet so as not to get an excessive glue line showing there.

Here is an example (from dominiak) of a good looking tip/ferrule/shaft installation, notice how seamless the transitions are ............
cue_tip.jpg
 
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The Prodigy said:
Do you have a lathe IA8baller, sorry I dont know your name.

Yes, I have a cue repair lathe. I'm just starting to do cue repairs, etc. As far as the the tip, not sure, but definitely a layered tip. I just pulled the pic off of google to show what a good tip/ferrule/shaft should look like.

Trevor.
 
Mcdermott Repair Center................

The Prodigy said:
Hey guys, I seemed to have apparently damaged my shaft, the ferrule is coming loose. I can move it up and down about a millimeter. It has a pinging noise when I hit with it. I decided to not shoot with it until I can do something about it, I am afraid about breaking the ferrule. I have a D-3 McDermott Cue, and from the research I have done they only made them from 84-90. The shaft is original, but the ferrule I am not sure about, also I just had a new tip put on a few weeks ago. The new tip is a multi layered, plays mediocre but it glazes over VERY FAST and it REALLY annoys me. Cutting does the layers on a layered tip doesnt hurt it does it? The tip installer told me that the tip plays to mushy with so many layers it had on it so he removed a few.
McDermott has a repair center. Here is the link: http://www.mcdermottcue.com/Repairs.asp
I have owned several McDermott cues during my 40+ years of playing and they were always very nice to deal with and prompt with the turnaround.
 
McDermott ferrule

As far as I know McDermott didn't start threading their furrules until the M series was introduced. The E series and back have a slide on tenon. That's why a lot of old McDermotts have issue with the furrule separating from the shaft.

The tip in the picture looks like a Moori to me.
 
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