I have a pile of 1 1/2" Maple rounds, with fiddleback on 2 sides & only straight grain on the other 2 sides. Would you chance using them for handles???...JER
Fiddleback Handle Stock
- Thread starter BLACKHEARTCUES
- Start date
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I might consider coring it or atleast run some v grooves in it. What do you think.
I got some.
I recentered them following the straight grain.
They are still way oversized. Two more cuts if they move, then maybe I'd core them.
I like their density now so I have not cored them.
Some might be good enough to be exposed handles.
Happy New Year.
I recentered them following the straight grain.
They are still way oversized. Two more cuts if they move, then maybe I'd core them.
I like their density now so I have not cored them.
Some might be good enough to be exposed handles.
Happy New Year.
Kelly_Guy said:
They are Hard Maple with tons of grain lines, but I remember making a 29" butt out of some wood like this & over time it warped...JER
Michael Webb said:
Mike, you know I never considered "V" grooves, That is something I just might try. What if I cut some 1/4" deep "V" grooves & filled them with epoxy, instead of wood???...JER
I would turn really slow, but then again I'm sure I don't have to tell you that. Adding some spline to it May well help. I have atleast one cue I did that with, altough it was birdseye. I did'nt sink v-grooves into It, but did do some deep floating points and It held straight, even though I may have turned alittle quicker then I should've. I had 2 pieces from the same batch with no spline added, and one moved a hair, altough I was pressed for time, and they were turned much faster.
I had a curly forearm also that moved some over time, but that was being turned slow, so I still have plenty of room left before I get that one to size. As luck would have It, even though I had already mated it to the handle, I had'nt glued It yet. It seems to be alot more unstable then the birdseye, even though It was aged longer. You may have better luck using It in the handle, but You know how wood can be, I thought I would have movement in the smaller end rather then the bigger end, but apparently that's not always the case. I would think that coring would be the best alternative, but that could depend on Your build preferences. Trying to line the straight grain back up may also be a good idea if that's an option, and there is enough room, but even straight grain with no runoff can move If It has a mind to.
I'm sure You know most of this already, so probably not much help to you, but I don't have any new ideas, other then what's probably already known, try to stabilize well, make small numerous cuts, and give It plenty of time between turns, because sometimes It takes alot longer for any movement to take place then it does in other cases, and there's not always a sure way to tell ahead of time how much stress an individual piece can take without looking into the future somehow.
If your thinking about covering it with a wrap, instead of epoxy fill, You might could also index & cut grooves, doing something simular to a piece of billet to add some spline.
I would be interested in how you make out with It though.
Greg
I had a curly forearm also that moved some over time, but that was being turned slow, so I still have plenty of room left before I get that one to size. As luck would have It, even though I had already mated it to the handle, I had'nt glued It yet. It seems to be alot more unstable then the birdseye, even though It was aged longer. You may have better luck using It in the handle, but You know how wood can be, I thought I would have movement in the smaller end rather then the bigger end, but apparently that's not always the case. I would think that coring would be the best alternative, but that could depend on Your build preferences. Trying to line the straight grain back up may also be a good idea if that's an option, and there is enough room, but even straight grain with no runoff can move If It has a mind to.
I'm sure You know most of this already, so probably not much help to you, but I don't have any new ideas, other then what's probably already known, try to stabilize well, make small numerous cuts, and give It plenty of time between turns, because sometimes It takes alot longer for any movement to take place then it does in other cases, and there's not always a sure way to tell ahead of time how much stress an individual piece can take without looking into the future somehow.
If your thinking about covering it with a wrap, instead of epoxy fill, You might could also index & cut grooves, doing something simular to a piece of billet to add some spline.
I would be interested in how you make out with It though.
Greg
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I was thinking after you start the taper, then use the same taper and cut maybe 1/2 inch so when you get near finish size, you'll have plenty there. I would definately use wood. The epoxy may drive you crazy with the wraps. I've never tried it but I'm thinking about it. A lot of extra work but if keeps them straight, could be worth it.
Edited*
Dept might be different and closer to your 1/4 so you don't hit the centers.
Last edited:
Take 2 of them, cut them in half long ways with the good figure on one side and the bad on the other side of the cut.
Take the good figured sides, run them through the planer or drum sander, get em flat. Press those together. Turn round, then core. Probably make a very unique handle.
You could also do the same with 4 square pieces. Might work out to be stronger and even prettier.
Just an idea.
JWP
Take the good figured sides, run them through the planer or drum sander, get em flat. Press those together. Turn round, then core. Probably make a very unique handle.
You could also do the same with 4 square pieces. Might work out to be stronger and even prettier.
Just an idea.
JWP
Just hit me... another thing that works good with wood like that is sectioned handles. You know, 3 pieces that are 4 inches long, with rings between them.
JWP
JWP
PetreeCues said:
That one slipped My mind, but a good idea, It would work well, and no need to cover the figure with a wrap if done that way. It would be easier to core also, and could run a laminated dowel or straight grained piece through them to stabilize, so that it could be worked with alot sooner.How slow is slow, slow, slow? Turn them once a week?desi2960 said:
Try 25 thou in six weeks interval after letting it sit in your shop for a while.dave fingers said:
Last edited:
dave fingers said:
I let mine rest for at least one year in my air conditioned shop. Then I knock the corners off usually to 1.500 O.D. and wait another year. Next I turn it to 1.400 and wait another year. Now I turn it to 1.350 and wait onother year. Then I turn it to 1.320 and wait until I am ready to use the wood. After 4 to 5 years you usually don't have problems.
Good Cuemaking,
I wasn't very clear about this. I know about turning wood, I've been making Qs for 20 years. I use fiddleback for handles, without wraps, all of the time, but I'm thinking of using it UNDER a wrap. The fact that it has only 2 sides that are straight grained, is the reason I'm asking what YOU would do. Because of this, do you think that having 2 sides that are figured, instead of 4, would mean that it has to be treated any differently...JER
I'm not sure If I understand the question Jerry or what you mean By treated differently. For looks, location, stabilizing, or feel? I have pieces of maple that have one type of figure on 2 sides and a totally different type on the other 2 sides. I have some that looks like BE, curly, and tiger in the same piece.
Greg
Greg
I think Jer is concerned over the fact that, although the possible future handle wood has significant straight grain throughout, half of each piece has no figure, and the other half has curl. He's worried that over time, the curl may contribute to warping.
I don't know enough to contribute anything significant to this topic, but if you are concerned about it, is it really worth chancing? Of course for the sake of R&D, you may just put all but one of them aside and use it for something you keep in the shop, maybe even a "demo" cue as has been discussed in another thread, that way you can keep an eye on it for a year or three, and then decide whether you want to use it or not.
*Edited to change "no grain" to "no figure" highlighted in red above. Sorry about that. ~S
I don't know enough to contribute anything significant to this topic, but if you are concerned about it, is it really worth chancing? Of course for the sake of R&D, you may just put all but one of them aside and use it for something you keep in the shop, maybe even a "demo" cue as has been discussed in another thread, that way you can keep an eye on it for a year or three, and then decide whether you want to use it or not.
*Edited to change "no grain" to "no figure" highlighted in red above. Sorry about that. ~S
Last edited:
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
In my shop if I am not sure about something I DO NOT use it in a cue. A piece of handle wood only cost about $3.00. so throw it away.
