Finally getting a table

Change of subject. If I find that the rail rubbers installed are U-23 and if I want to change them to K-55, would this be possible or am I stuck with the size that fits (back dimension of 1 1/8” vs 1 5/16”?)

Does the profile make a huge difference?
 
A few things to keep in mind: 1) A cloth is only as good as the mechanic who installs it. That goes for wool-based cloth and synthetic cloth alike. "My" or "our" experience is anecdotal, can't be any more than an indication. 2) Synthetic cloth does not require heating, period. I have no idea why anyone would call that b.s. when it's an established fact. 3) "went downhill fast"? Synthetic cloth will play at the same speed and at the same length for much longer than wool-based cloth. 4) "It can also burn skin easily". Would have been helpful if you mentioned which type of cloth you are referring to, in that sentence. 5) Taking a cue (pun intended) from Raymond Ceulemans or from Poolmanis, that shouldn't be too hard a choice. 6) I've once run the numbers on ten Dutch Grand Prix tournaments played in 2018 and 2019, five on RP and five on Simonis, with basically the same last 32 field. Averages were around 1,5 % higher on RP. The difference was a bit larger in the qualifications (2.5 %) because lower-average players benefitted more from the extra speed of the table.

Thanks for bringing the facts, Bert.
 
I trust your advice. I'll buy 300.

I trust your advice. I'll buy 300.

Due to his many years of covering the game all over the world and knowing all of the top players, Bert's advice is far superior to some random guy on the internet. I'd trust his advice. Use the money you save on RP to get some nice Klematch rubber and having it set up by a professional.
 
And just to make the cloth choice easier...gorina is also excellent!

My club had gorina and then went simonis.

I feel like the gorina was more durable and the owner said he plans to go back to gorina next round.
 
A few things to keep in mind: 1) A cloth is only as good as the mechanic who installs it. That goes for wool-based cloth and synthetic cloth alike. "My" or "our" experience is anecdotal, can't be any more than an indication. 2) Synthetic cloth does not require heating, period. I have no idea why anyone would call that b.s. when it's an established fact. 3) "went downhill fast"? Synthetic cloth will play at the same speed and at the same length for much longer than wool-based cloth. 4) "It can also burn skin easily". Would have been helpful if you mentioned which type of cloth you are referring to, in that sentence. 5) Taking a cue (pun intended) from Raymond Ceulemans or from Poolmanis, that shouldn't be too hard a choice. 6) I've once run the numbers on ten Dutch Grand Prix tournaments played in 2018 and 2019, five on RP and five on Simonis, with basically the same last 32 field. Averages were around 1,5 % higher on RP. The difference was a bit larger in the qualifications (2.5 %) because lower-average players benefitted more from the extra speed of the table.
I agree about mechanic thing. Our mechanic on first one(Royal pro) is very good and carom player too. I still think he did little sloppy job.
I did table second time and put Simonis 300. I am part time table mechanic(600+ tables 30 years)but that was my first carom table i did and it came up way better than Royal pro. Our table is kinda cheap Turkish one but have a full carom thickness slates, heater and Klematch rails installed afterwards by greek Pavlos.
Now im very happy still after more than one year of use of our Simonis 300 plays very well. I played also almost all carom tables in Finland and most are Gabriels. All tables that had Simonis 300 played better than those that had Royal Pro on it. Could still be mechanic thing for sure because there are about 10 tables here.
Even mechanic who did put our Royal pro was impressed the difference. He claimed that Royal Pro was better couple years ago.
We played some 3-C when he came to do our snooker tables. I maintenance all other tables in our club.
I don´t also understand why people would want to play without heater 3-cushion, if they have heater on table. Table get a lot slower with any cloth on it. Conditions with heater and without is dramatic.
We normally have heater always on in our club because electricity is included in rent. I am not very experienced with carom like you Bert but i am proud about my understanding of games and my mechanic skills. I always try make table like i was doing it to myself. So i am very critical at playing conditions.
Never had complain any of my tables i have done.
 
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And just to make the cloth choice easier...gorina is also excellent!

My club had gorina and then went simonis.

I feel like the gorina was more durable and the owner said he plans to go back to gorina next round.
Our local poolhall had Gorina cloth on pool tables back in 90´s. They were fast and stayed fast long time. I liked them. But that is all my experience on Gorina
 
Change of subject. If I find that the rail rubbers installed are U-23 and if I want to change them to K-55, would this be possible or am I stuck with the size that fits (back dimension of 1 1/8” vs 1 5/16”?)

Does the profile make a huge difference?
Try search mechanic subforums. There is many threads about rail profiles etc..
 
i think a higher quality follow thru is an indication of a higher quality stroke
you cant tell me an pool player above 700 fargo doesnt have a controlled stroke and follow thru
if someone is dropping their elbow or raising the cue tip BEFORE contact
thats a stroke flaw and i doubt that player pool or carom is above intermediate


not all pool strokes are "punchy" and its the small amount of distance before at and after contact that determines whether the follow thru is straight or not
pool players with pendulum strokes their tips end up on the cloth(down) yet they followed thru level thru the important time
i think carom players use the different types of strokes more and understand why
i am a pool player but a student of pool and carom
so
jmho
icbw
Well said Larry!
 
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