finger joint?

Most of the birdseye forearms had dark streaks thru the forearm that didn't cut out, making it impossible to do anything other than dye it black to hide them. I may have just been the batch I got dealt:frown: Then they started to twist right at the splice. I still have a couple that I use for the same reason explained above, to check the taper setup, and stain qualities.
Dave
 
after i posted it i googled it lol

not far at all, i bought some of those pieces and cut off the fronts for other cues,
 
Trent said:
it crossed my mind but i try and keep a cool head and be as professional as possible, but if it happens again:angry: POW!! lol just kidding
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Paging Blair Thein for his PPP business-pool,poker and pain.
 
rhncue said:
Should have asked him how many cues he has built that way and then tell him his lack of experience is showing. It's pretty difficult trying to put deco-rings at the wrap on a finger jointed cue.

I've never seen any of the old Mali's finger jointed but they were built differently and easily broke at the A-joint. They waited until the cue was almost completed and then used a router to cut the V's for their points. At the end of the point, just behind where the wrap started they would have the ends of the cavities that the router bit had made and they would just fill these pockets with bondo making this area extremely weak.

In the mid nineties Josh cane out with four Sneaky Pete cues that were finger jointed and then 4 flat bottomed point were inlaid over the top of the finger joints but if you look you can see them between the points.

Finger joints are a good, strong joint that saves both wood and time. Much wider boards are finger jointed together and then cut into strips. These strips are then turned round and tapered into a cue.

Dick
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Dick,

Do you have picture you could post of this or anyone else? I would really appericate it. I have heard about them for years and somehow I think I am confused about them for along time. Perhaps I'm not, I am just trying to learn or correct what I know or dont know.

best

eric


PS Thanks in advance, :smile:
 
Finger Joints vs full splice etc

Trent said:
i was at a local pool hall today and some guy ive never seen before came up and interrupted me while i was talking about a cue to a potential buyer and he asked how did you join the forearm to the cue and i told him i use a conecting screw, and a long tennon inside of it to make it as strong as possible and he goes tsssssssssshhhhhhhh thats no way to make a cue the only way u can make a cue that hits good is with a finger joint:angry:
killing a deal with the gentleman i was talking to.

and continued to annoy me with questions and telling me how i should do things until i said that i had to go pick up my kids and I left.

Ive never done a finger joint but wanted to know what your opinions were of them thanks!
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Naturally I'd like to make the best hitting cue possible.Does anyone have a picture of a finger joint that I might see?
thanks, JerseyBill
 
The butts that have been discussed here look like this:
 

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GEBrown said:
The butts that have been discussed here look like this:
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Thats what I thought we were talking about, how in the world can that be stronger than a normal A joint? it also looks like it might grow a mind of its own and move in 8 different directions at once causeing the cue maker headache after headache before it goes out the door, save the buyer's headaches.

seems to me usint one piece of wood and eilminating the joint all together or doing it the standard way is the best 2 choices. I'm not a cue maker-far from it but I been around a while and this "Finger joint" plan looks bad to me.

thank you for posting hte picture, and if there are people who can make it work, I tip my hat to them.
 
Fatboy said:
Thats what I thought we were talking about, how in the world can that be stronger than a normal A joint? it also looks like it might grow a mind of its own and move in 8 different directions at once causeing the cue maker headache after headache before it goes out the door, save the buyer's headaches.

seems to me usint one piece of wood and eilminating the joint all together or doing it the standard way is the best 2 choices. I'm not a cue maker-far from it but I been around a while and this "Finger joint" plan looks bad to me.

thank you for posting hte picture, and if there are people who can make it work, I tip my hat to them.
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That is done for production purposes IMHO.
Join them while still square then turn them round.
CNC the points and inlays while they are already joined.

Using one long 29" for core is not the best way imo.
We already know house cues with purpleheart bottom and maple front hits better than all maple butt. When you match two woods of differing density, they add up well imo.
 
Fatboy said:
Thats what I thought we were talking about, how in the world can that be stronger than a normal A joint? it also looks like it might grow a mind of its own and move in 8 different directions at once causeing the cue maker headache after headache before it goes out the door, save the buyer's headaches.

seems to me usint one piece of wood and eilminating the joint all together or doing it the standard way is the best 2 choices. I'm not a cue maker-far from it but I been around a while and this "Finger joint" plan looks bad to me.

thank you for posting hte picture, and if there are people who can make it work, I tip my hat to them.
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Actually, A well executed finger joint is incredibly strong. There is an amazing amount of surface area and triangulating support. done right, its like gluing a foot of wood together in a single square inch. It has an amazing amount of strength.

With crossed grain patterns and the fact that many glues are stronger than wood, It is not likely ever move at all. if you have a naturally forward balanced design, It would great way to go.

There was a Viking cue made this way (far better machine work than the picture shown earlier) that made it all the way through the finished stage and was played with for a few months.
when it failed, the surprise was that it was such a tight fitting connection that it survived intact that long without having ever been glued.
 
WilleeCue said:
It is nice to know that he lets you do that and then sells the rest of us the rejects and leftovers.
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I know what you mean. I made a few trips to the upper peninsula of Michigan to hand pick shaftwood because I felt it was the only way to get what I wanted. Shame that guy's not still in business.....
 
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