Finish on Rosewood

DawgAndy

DawgAndy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just got an old D-16 McDermott. There isn't any finish left on it and the forearm wood is sorta beat up with dents. I don't think I want a full blown refinish job. Is there something I can put on it to reseal the pores and put a little shine with protection on it? I was thinking some kind of oil, but I wasn't sure about what that may do to the veneers (if anything).

Thanks
Andy
 
For a lousy 100 bucks.

Send it to a cuemaker or Scot at proficient and get it refinished for 100.

It amazes me that more people dont use this service.

Makes a good looking cue great!

Good Luck

Ken
 
Refinish

Oh no, go ahead, refinish it yourself and save some money. First you will have the cost of the finish plus your time. Then you will have the cost of the repair person to fix your mistakes. Some savings. What a short cut.
 
I didn't say I wanted to refinish it myself. If the wood was in better shape I wood get it refinished. It's not a measley 100 at my house:rolleyes: 100 for the refinish, 50 for chip in joint etc . Nevermind.

Andy
 
DawgAndy said:
I just got an old D-16 McDermott. There isn't any finish left on it and the forearm wood is sorta beat up with dents. I don't think I want a full blown refinish job. Is there something I can put on it to reseal the pores and put a little shine with protection on it? I was thinking some kind of oil, but I wasn't sure about what that may do to the veneers (if anything).

Thanks
Andy
Click to expand...

Hello Andy, since know one else has tried to answer your question I will offer the following advise. The most important factor that you must consider is protection of the wood from moisture. There are many ways to seal the wood but without knowledge of wood finishing it can become difficult. Andy, the best thing for your situation is a oil finish. Oil has been used throughout history to protect wood, and some Famous cue makers over the last forty years also used it (George Balabushka and Herman Rambow). For your cue I would recommend a clear Danish Oil finish made by Watco. Watco finish are also stains so I would only use their clear or their Fruit-wood finish. First seal the wrap area of the cue very very well with a none absorbent material. Then lightly sand the areas where the oil finish is going to be applied with 400 and then 600 sand paper. Sand with the grain and sand lightly removing any LOOSE finish that may be remaining. Then take some Acetone on a rag and wipe down the sanded areas to clean and also prepare the wood for the oil finish. Next take a lightly damp cloth and wipe down the areas where finish will be applied this will open up the woods surface and allow the oil finish to be absorbed more easily. After you have applied the oil finish to the sanded areas with a rag, take a clean cloth and rub the surface of the wood until it begins to shine and is no longer sticky to the touch. Over a period of time this will again become dull / dirty looking all that you will need to due is apply more oil finish and rub it in. This will protect the wood until you can have the cue professionally refinished.

Craig

Full Splice Billiards
1-253-512-6898
 
Thank you Craig. I've never worked with rosewood before. It feels oily so I wondered if it ever had a proper clear coat on it. I don't know what McDermott was using back then.

Thanks, again.
Andy
 
DawgAndy said:
Thank you Craig. I've never worked with rosewood before. It feels oily so I wondered if it ever had a proper clear coat on it. I don't know what McDermott was using back then.

Thanks, again.
Andy
Click to expand...




Most rosewoods are oily, and in fact are difficult to finish with some products for that very reason. I had some issues one time and did a google search that turned up some good information, so that would be My recomendation. In my case It was prohibiting the finish's ability to fully cure in the first place, but I have seen cases where the finish cured, then over time the oils built up underneath it, and caused the finish to break down from inside-out.

The oil finish is always a option if It's something that you don't want to get alot of cash tied up in, but would like to keep for yourself, or for possibly a vintage or SP. I have also used a simular mixture to the shaft sealer that has been mentioned here before, altough It's pretty much the same thing, in that you still have to redo It every so often. Your not going to get a auto clear finish, and may not look perfect, but It does somewhat protect the cue, and should you later decide to refinsh It, It might be easier then trying to refinish over an oil based product later down the road. It does not soak in as deep as oil though.
Again, as with the oil finish, this product does come in clear, but most I have used still have some ambering effects that more then likely will be more noticable in the lighter or/and white areas of the cue.

Good Luck,

Greg
 
Finishing Old Rosewood

Try Gunstock Oil Along With The Gunstock Grain Filler. Been Using It For Years On Vintage Guitars. 20 Bucks And Your In Business.

Bob Flynn
Denali Cues
 
well If my D-18 cue is representative

I believe they used some sort of catylyzed clear auto finish, My cue is better than 95 % and that is what it appears to me to be. I cannot imagine the hard use your cue must have taken to get in such condition.
The only good way to protect your cue is to strip it and totally refinish. It is hard to do, but what worthwhile project is easy? Good Luck!
 
Going Great

Hello friends,
I'm two coats of oil in to my cue and it is really, really looking great. I'm super pumped up. I recieved alot of good tips in this forum,PMs, emails and over the phone. A ton of help. I took pics when I got the cue, I've wanted a D-16 for years, so I'll post before and after shots ASAP.

Thanks again
Andy
 
I'd like to get my hands on a D-14 again....I won tons with it....:D
________
 
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