Finishes other than CA

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I previously used CA as a finish on some pool cues I made. I’m in the process of setting my shop back up and would prefer to use something different. I’d prefer not to drop a lot of money on the new technique as making cues is a hobby. The other factor is getting it through customs as I live in Costa Rica so it needs to fit in a suitcase and not violate any hazard material lists. What are my options providing I haven’t ruled everything out with the issues I listed above. TIA

Cheers
 

CocoboloCowboy

Cowboys are my hero's
Silver Member
Well I honestly have been told Costa Rica is modern country, so would would assume they have sores that sell finish material.

Trying to carry flammable in air craft is not good idea.
 

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well I honestly have been told Costa Rica is modern country, so would would assume they have sores that sell finish material.

Trying to carry flammable in air craft is not good idea.
Fairly modern, and I’m sure I can purchase a great deal of finishes. But, I’d prefer to save myself some heartbreak by purchasing subpar finish components, and the quality can be significantly different here. My little bit of research has me eyeballing UV finishes where I think all I need is a good spray gun.
 

CocoboloCowboy

Cowboys are my hero's
Silver Member
My cousin live the 6 months, he said store were like US. Had everything.

He love place, but could not afford the cost of living.

M
 

SpiderWeb

iisgone@yahoo.com
Silver Member
where do you live in costa rica? here is a paint store in pavas central facing the soccer field. The owner is nice and sells many grades of automotive finishes. I like higher solids better because it fills faster. They have bmw, mercedes and 911s, so they have good materials.
 

kling&allen

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
JC (Coos Cues) has a great video on YouTube about his process to avoid some of the awful chemicals for finishing (CA or auto clear coat). He uses epoxy then a Zinzer shellac then an instrument finish.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I previously used CA as a finish on some pool cues I made. I’m in the process of setting my shop back up and would prefer to use something different. I’d prefer not to drop a lot of money on the new technique as making cues is a hobby. The other factor is getting it through customs as I live in Costa Rica so it needs to fit in a suitcase and not violate any hazard material lists. What are my options providing I haven’t ruled everything out with the issues I listed above. TIA

Cheers
There must be body repair shops in Costa Rica too. Why not just go to your local one and ask if you can buy from them?
 

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
where do you live in costa rica? here is a paint store in pavas central facing the soccer field. The owner is nice and sells many grades of automotive finishes. I like higher solids better because it fills faster. They have bmw, mercedes and 911s, so they have good materials.
This post is more about technique than it is about product availability. I have no doubt that I can purchase finishing product here in CR. I’m wanting to change from using CA to an alternate, less hazardous technique. I travel to the U.S. twice a year and figure I can acquire what I need and bring it back with me. I do not require a great deal of finishing product as making pool cues is a hobby.

Cheers
 

Burnett Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JC (Coos Cues) has a great video on YouTube about his process to avoid some of the awful chemicals for finishing (CA or auto clear coat). He uses epoxy then a Zinzer shellac then an instrument finish.
Brite Tone is the finish that you are referencing. It is a great finish, until someone uses alcohol on it and it softens and gums up. I think he is using Solar-Ez now?
 

kling&allen

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Brite Tone is the finish that you are referencing. It is a great finish, until someone uses alcohol on it and it softens and gums up. I think he is using Solar-Ez now?

Thanks for that update, maybe he will chime in here with more information. For my hobby woodworking I've always loved shellac but it doesn't give the same pop / clearness as the modern chemicals.
 

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JC (Coos Cues) has a great video on YouTube about his process to avoid some of the awful chemicals for finishing (CA or auto clear coat). He uses epoxy then a Zinzer shellac then an instrument finish.
JC has many great videos available. I certainly appreciate that he shares his knowledge. It was his video on the finish he uses that got me thinking about changing.
 

kling&allen

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
JC has many great videos available. I certainly appreciate that he shares his knowledge. It was his video on the finish he uses that got me thinking about changing.

Out of curiosity, why don't you just use traditional finishes (shellacs and waxes) if you aren't widely selling your cues? Worst case you will have to reapply the finish every 5 or 10 years depending on use and condition.
 

Mase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Out of curiosity, why don't you just use traditional finishes (shellacs and waxes) if you aren't widely selling your cues? Worst case you will have to reapply the finish every 5 or 10 years depending on use and condition.
General Finishes Enduro works well and if its not available can probably be shipped.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
General Finishes Enduro works well and if its not available can probably be shipped.
I tried Enduro water based finish......... in multiple coats it take forever to harden up......... and it turns yellow over time............ try Solarez UV finish............ PM me if you want to know to apply it....................... never yellows..... easy to apply.... stands up to abuse

Kim
 

Coos Cues

Coos Cues
Thanks for that update, maybe he will chime in here with more information. For my hobby woodworking I've always loved shellac but it doesn't give the same pop / clearness as the modern chemicals.
Just so you know JC is banned from AZ for life for posting political memes on the funny pics thread. They don't change a status to banned anymore so no one can tell. Just hustled off never to be seen again so there's no fuss.

Also he took all his videos off of you tube and moved them to his Rumble channel due to you tube's censorship.
 

kling&allen

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Just so you know JC is banned from AZ for life for posting political memes on the funny pics thread. They don't change a status to banned anymore so no one can tell. Just hustled off never to be seen again so there's no fuss.

Also he took all his videos off of you tube and moved them to his Rumble channel due to you tube's censorship.

Thanks, I won't hold my breath for his input anymore! He was a great contributor on cue making topics at least.
 

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just so you know JC is banned from AZ for life for posting political memes on the funny pics thread. They don't change a status to banned anymore so no one can tell. Just hustled off never to be seen again so there's no fuss.
Also he took all his videos off of you tube and moved them to his Rumble channel due to you tube's censorship.
Thank you for the info. This explains why my YouTube links to his videos quit working and also why he didn’t respond to my inquiry.
 
Last edited:

Lizardking

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Out of curiosity, why don't you just use traditional finishes (shellacs and waxes) if you aren't widely selling your cues? Worst case you will have to reapply the finish every 5 or 10 years depending on use and condition.
Well, I do plan on selling the cues I make. Not sure about the cost and effort required for shellac’s and waxes, but I’m not seeing many cue makers suggesting that type of finish. I do know that the learning curve with applying CA was lengthy and the end result was quite pleasing to the eye, the damn fumes are not what I want to breathe. I’m prepared to endure another learning curve and I’ll probably coat and sand a number of cues before I feel comfortable with the new technique. At this point, I’m leaning towards Solarez and Brite Tone.
 

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I previously used CA as a finish on some pool cues I made. I’m in the process of setting my shop back up and would prefer to use something different. I’d prefer not to drop a lot of money on the new technique as making cues is a hobby. The other factor is getting it through customs as I live in Costa Rica so it needs to fit in a suitcase and not violate any hazard material lists. What are my options providing I haven’t ruled everything out with the issues I listed above. TIA

Cheers
Does anyone use Tru-Oil? Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil? Easy to apply. Nice durable finish.
 

kling&allen

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Well, I do plan on selling the cues I make. Not sure about the cost and effort required for shellac’s and waxes, but I’m not seeing many cue makers suggesting that type of finish. I do know that the learning curve with applying CA was lengthy and the end result was quite pleasing to the eye, the damn fumes are not what I want to breathe. I’m prepared to endure another learning curve and I’ll probably coat and sand a number of cues before I feel comfortable with the new technique. At this point, I’m leaning towards Solarez and Brite Tone.

Fair enough--the traditional finishes were used for many decades before modern chemicals and resins were developed. But no doubt that you don't get the same result as you would with 2K.
 
Top