First experience with diamondwood

[opiesbro]

So I just got done roughing this cue in out of diamondwood. The customer wants some really odd specs that are being very hard to meet. They are as follows:

Length 61" split like this 30" shaft and 31" butt
Only 4-6" of pro taper into a very stiff straight taper the rest of the way
13.25 to 13.5mm shaft diameter with a phenolic ferrule w/reverse threaded tennon
Pin in the shaft not the butt
hard tip
Handle diameter about 1.3"
and 24oz on weight

At this point I am about .905" at the joint with a full core 5/8" to 3/4" maple. The problem that I am having is currently the cue weighs 30.2oz and I don't really want to make it hollow as I think that will make it hit terrible. Also I know it is what the customer wants but I'm not too eager to put my name on it as it is so odd in dimensions I think it will be a turn off to other customers.

So I guess my question is does anyone have any good ideas to get the weight down and not comprimise the hit too much? Right now it hits very solid and he is happy with it except for the weight.

 

[patrickcues]

Did you core the dymondwood?? If not take the joint back off and core it with something lite. You wont be able to get the weight down if you havent.

 

[Dave38]

The joint diameter is .905?, is that what the customer wants? If so, you got a whole lot of work to do to get it down on weight. What kind of joint pin? Going from stainless to aluminum, or titanium or G-10 will save about an ounce right off the bat. Cutting the cue to a more standard joint sze will save a bit also. If using the standard .400" taper, I'm surprised it weighs that much. I have used some diamondwood blanks from Chris for breakcues and they haven't come close to that weight. Is the shaft diamondwood also? if so, change to a maple, purpleheart, IPE, or ash shaft. That WILL drop the extra weight.
Goodluck,
Dave

 

[ratcues]

Knocking 6oz is going to be a miracle, at this point. In all honesty, this is an issue that should have been figured out before construction started.

-Coring into the forearm now will change the hit.

-Your best bet is to use a cored handle. I large ID core, at that.

-Use an aluminum A-joint pin and a lighter male connecting pin. G10, titanium, or aluminum...

 

[opiesbro]

Cored

Did you core the dymondwood?? If not take the joint back off and core it with something lite. You wont be able to get the weight down if you havent.

The butt has one solid core currently. It is 5/8" in the forearm area and 3/4" in the handle area. There are no connecting screws as the butt is one solid piece of wood with sleeves for collars. The pin is 5/8-14 with a phenolic female insert.

I think I will thin it down and maybe make an aluminum pin for it as g10 is not an optiin per the customer. The shaft is also dymondwood. I'm sure I will get it then i will post results.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[whammo57]

heavy

I have used dymond wood and it is very heavy. I used it for a segmented handle.

I did core it.

It is nice stuff but I would never try to make a butt of all dymond wood and I would not leave it fat and I would not make it long. All of those things added to weight.

You will never get the weight down in the configuration that you built it.


Kim

 

[Brickcues]

I make dymondwood jump breaks and I core the butts with .750 gun drill about 14 in. This takes the weight down to about 19 to 20 oz. This is with a dymondwood shaft. Core with .625 gun drill about 12 inches should get it down to 24 oz. Put a 2 in. .625 maple plug in the end to seal the hole. I have gone up to .875 gun drill to get cues in 18oz range. Will not effect anything as dymondwood is impregnated and is very hard. I have been making for 5 or 6 yrs and have had no problems with being hollow except for bumpers comming out if you do not plug.

 

[MVPCues]

I think your best bet is to bore the butt. You can always do a few things to keep from it having a hollow sound.

What is the final joint size supposed to be? What is the diameter of the cue butt currently?

You might have trouble losing that much weight, depending on how close to final diameter the cue already is. I think you needed to do a few calculations in the design phase using the density of dymondwood to help you get in the ballpark.

You may want to glance at this thread.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=278357

I made a post about a computer program I wrote to aid in weighting and balancing cues using very detailed data about every component in the cue. Knowing the desnity of dymondwood and the desired weight the customer wanted, the program would have been helpful in getting you there during the design and construction phase. I would be willing to enter some information in the program if you could provide details (would proabably require a phone call or two). With enough information, I can to tell you how drastic the changes would have to be to get the cue to its target.

I plan on adding a few finishing touches to the progam and marketing it to other cuemakers, but I would be willing to help you out now with this particular cue.

Kelly

 

[JAlan]

I think what Alex suggested above is your best bet. No other way I could see to get the weight you are shooting for. Dymondwood is tough as nails in my experience, you won't compromise anything in strength in my opinion.