Fixing minor nicks and dents in your cue

[jay helfert]

The steam method is by far the best way to fix your shaft. The way I do it is to double aluminum foil over a small pan of water. Place an elastic band around the pan to hold the foil firmly on the pan.

Be sure to have a crown in the foil kind of like what those old popcorn foils look like after the corn popped. Before you place it over the pan, poke a small hole in the center of the crown from the inside. Use a pencil but try not to make it as large as the whole pencil, just about half way up the point.

Turn the stove on, and let the water boil until its going crazy. When the steam is really coming out with force, place the portion of the shaft with the ding right under the portion of the steam that you can see and into what is invisable. Do this because if you can see the steam it is starting to condense and cool and what is under that is hotter.

4 to 6 seconds, dry with paper towel, allow to cool a few seconds and check, repeat as needed.

I personally take 1200 wet dry sandpaper after the shaft is fixed and cooled and take down whatever wood has slightly raised. Then I find a pretty crisp dollar bill and burnish the shaft with the backside of it, moving fast enough to produce lots of heat. You can do this step a few times. Even double fold the bill to get more heat before it burns you. It comes out like glass. ( The dollar works well also rolling the side of your tip after you dampen it. It will harden and burning nicely.

I like this one too.

 

[Da Poet]

I was wondering if anyone had any information on whether or not products like the Cue Doctor Buffer (http://www.poolndarts.com/p-5022-Cue-Doctor-Buffer/) worked for removing minor dings in your cue shaft. I recently had a mishap and now I'm stuck with two minor yet noticable dings in my shaft So if anyone has any helpful information on this product or any other like it, please let me know! Thanks

If you haven't already, you might make sure to check this link http://www.predatorcues.com/predator_cues_customer_service.html#repairs before you do anything. It recommends not steaming the dents out. They have a repair service that says they'll fix dents for $25 plus shipping, but they don't say how they fix them.


Good luck!

 

[Slider]

Where do you find that 96% alcohol? I use water with the eraser and it leaves the shaft all grimy.. I always have to sand it dry lol.. Alcohol makes much more sense, but the rubbing alcohol I have is 70%.. is this something easily obtained somewhere?

Quite a few years ago I found some 90%+ alcohol at the pharmacy. I had to ask for it, it was kept behind the counter.

For dents, I've had good results using a small piece of wet tissue, letting the wood soak up the water for a while, then kissing the tissue with a pencil-type soldering iron.

Ken

 

[Deadon]

The Cue Doctor dent buffer has worked well for me as a quick fix. I've also used the water drop method and the steam method. All work well. I like the dent buffer. quick and easy with no hassles. By rubbing the wood all around the dent it pushes the fibers back up. Some knock that action but it's worked well for me. You can also use a shot glass or just a drinking glass. Rub vigorusly over the dented area until you dont hear or feel the bump any more.

Jim;

Actually it doesn't push the fibers up, it pushes the edge of the dent down and compresses the fibers around it. You don't notice it as easily because your dent is now 1/2 inch long instead of 1/32. You can see it with a light shined down the shaft and look at the correctness of the reflection.

Mike

 

[JimS]

I didn't see mention of the fact that the shaft is a Predator. I've seen several threads where it's mentioned often that water, and especially steam, should be avoided on a Predator. Glue problems it seems.

 

[Da Poet]

I didn't see mention of the fact that the shaft is a Predator. I've seen several threads where it's mentioned often that water, and especially steam, should be avoided on a Predator. Glue problems it seems.

I was looking at his signature, plus he mentions a little later that it's a Z2 shaft.

The no steam thing might be because the glue used to laminate the shafts is a water based glue, but that's just my assumption.

I had a local guy fix a couple dents on my 314-2 by putting a small fabric bandaid on the dent, soaking the bandaid with water, and then steaming out the dent with a small iron. I didn't know at the time that this wasn't recommended with these shafts,(and apparently, neither did the cue guy) but I got lucky and everything worked out okay. If I would have had a problem, I might have voided my warrantee. It wasn't worth the risk.

 

[playonepocket]

I just use a damp washcloth and a hot iron. It works great.

I will 2nd that.

Any combination of heat and moisture is going to do good things.

This will raise all pores of the cue.

It is really important to remember to let the cue completely dry BEFORE burnishing or sanding with a light grit paper.

Any moisture left in the shaft is going to continuously pull out more dings and pores in the cue.

With the Predator shaft, you have to take moisture out of the mix and try just pin pointed heat. The thing I like about standard Maple shafts and using an iron / damp cloth is you can attack the whole shaft, and even take out dings you didn't even know you had!

Also with the Predator, perhaps applying some sort of non-water based liquid substance to the specific ding and again pinpointing the application of heat? Eek, still seems stetchy, and I personally wouldn't trust it. Just a suggestion.

As noted, $25 isn't a bad price however to send it out to Predator. You know it will be done right. Down time is a pain, but at least you will have peace of mind, and there is no price for that!

-Pool Loft Dave

 

[Bastian]

As for the magic eraser and alcohol instead of water question for cleaning shafts.. my sweet wife just got back from the pharmacy and remembered my ramblings about needing 96% alcohol lol.. turns out they carry 91% rubbing alcohol, you just have to look hard for it.. Wives who haven't completely tuned you out yet just rock

 

[Mike in MN]

If you haven't already, you might make sure to check this link http://www.predatorcues.com/predator_cues_customer_service.html#repairs before you do anything. It recommends not steaming the dents out. They have a repair service that says they'll fix dents for $25 plus shipping, but they don't say how they fix them.


Good luck!

I cannot tell you how glad I am that I read this before doing anything to my shaft. I didn't even think to check the website (duh!). Effective tomorrow, I'll be back to using my Viking shaft until my Z-2 comes back because I am not taking any chances when it can be done professionally for a small cost. Thanks again everyone!