Fluorescent lighting ?
- Thread starter cuekev
- Start date
cuekev said:
Home Depot, Lowes, Google.
Have seen recommendations that full spectrum bulbs are better than the cheaper versions.
Please do not consider this to be MY informed suggestion
Please do not consider this to be MY informed suggestion
You can buy high output fluorescent tubes... 75W - 110W T12
You can go to higher wattage bulbs. Normally around 85 watts. Also, you could put a parabolic mirror diffusion panel underneath your lights (inexpensive at Home Depot, also available through commercial lighting stores.) That will scatter the light and reduce shadows on the table drastically. Also, you might consider installing a second fixture and have a total of 4 bulbs.
I have 8 four foot t-8's in my brunswick GCIV light. Cool white 4100k.
Full spectrum lighting is recommended by Brunswick and others. See their web site and read the light specifications. You may need a more powerful ballest with your current lights. After reading Brunswick specs I built my own using two sets of four foot light holders with four bulbs in each set. All the necessaries were available at Home Depot for about $100.00. Trim would be extra.
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I don't know what kind of light you have but I think it would be better to replace light with a new T8 tube or T5 tube style fixture.
These will also cut down on heat and energy usage without losing lumen's.
E mail lighting specialist companies for their recommendations.
Joe W. is spot on.
I am a retired master Electrician and work PT at Home Depot.
all ballast's are for listed tubes only this info is printed clearly on ballast!
High Output ballasts /HO tubes are not interchanged with other ballasts!
These will also cut down on heat and energy usage without losing lumen's.
E mail lighting specialist companies for their recommendations.
Joe W. is spot on.
I am a retired master Electrician and work PT at Home Depot.
all ballast's are for listed tubes only this info is printed clearly on ballast!
High Output ballasts /HO tubes are not interchanged with other ballasts!
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9 on the snap said:
Now, that's a lot of light!
Fish on,
I did talk to someone at Wyandotte Elect. Yes I will have to change the fixture. I was told that T12's are being fazed out and they only make the Cool White in the 72" tubes. I will probably need to use 2 36" fixtures under the hood. It is becoming much more of a project and expense than I am ready to deal with right now.
My thanks to everyone.
I did talk to someone at Wyandotte Elect. Yes I will have to change the fixture. I was told that T12's are being fazed out and they only make the Cool White in the 72" tubes. I will probably need to use 2 36" fixtures under the hood. It is becoming much more of a project and expense than I am ready to deal with right now.
My thanks to everyone.
Here you go, not pretty but it works. Jay suggested lowering to about 36" inches off the table and then using duct tape on the sides to give it that old time pool room look - dark around the table when the blinds are closed.. This is an old photo but it shows a good view of the structure.
Two 2 X 4s are used as the support for the light. Trim can be added in any of several ways.
Two 2 X 4s are used as the support for the light. Trim can be added in any of several ways.
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Joe, after seeing your photo, I'm curious if (even after drawing the blinds) all the outside light doesn't become problematic at times.
In my unfinished basement where I have my table, I'm faced with an opposite situation I have to address myself. I have two double bulb 4' fluorescents over my table, and it is the only light in the room, which is approximately 18x30.
I'm finding the lighted area over the table vs the relatively dark areas out of the playing zone may be affecting the pupils in my eyes and may be causing them to constantly dilate and contract some as I look away from the table and back again, and I sure don't need any more help missing a shot.
I mention this wondering if this is another common problem to guard against.
In my unfinished basement where I have my table, I'm faced with an opposite situation I have to address myself. I have two double bulb 4' fluorescents over my table, and it is the only light in the room, which is approximately 18x30.
I'm finding the lighted area over the table vs the relatively dark areas out of the playing zone may be affecting the pupils in my eyes and may be causing them to constantly dilate and contract some as I look away from the table and back again, and I sure don't need any more help missing a shot.
I mention this wondering if this is another common problem to guard against.
3 and stop, I have wooden blinds on the windows and doors so they block most of the light. It is not black but it is relatively dark. I solved the pupil problem by having hanging lights and a reostat for the ceiling fixtures away from the table. There are small lights (on resostats) next to the couch and a hanging light over the bar. These provide enough light for the eyes to adjust (and make a drink) but leave the rest of the room reasonably dark. When I made the room I wanted it relatively dark around the outside of the room but not pitch black. The double french doors that lead to the kitchen cast a kind of glow during the day and this helps too. I wanted (and got) the pool room effect without being in a dungeon. It just takes some time and thought. I think I have more of a night club effect with enough lights in specific place to have the room appear to be darker than it is.
Don't know what to say about the shorter light except that you could probably get a four footer and a two footer to place inside. If you are on an 8 foot table that might work. I find that an 8 foot light is necessary for even lighting on a nine foot light.
The color corrected lights are the best way to go. If you read about them you will learn that they are easier on the eyes. I am 65 this year and often play for 5 - 6 hours. I doubt that I could do that with weaker or un-corrected lights. When I play in the league on seven foot tables I find that after an hour or so my eyes are tired and that I have a more difficult time seeing the balls in many of the taverns where we play. Good lighting is important to me.
In my thinking the lighting is more important than what they look like. I have spent a considerable amount of time building and using my room. I have a particular style that I want and the lights have to be right and meet this style.
OH, BTW one of the things I really like is the use of duct tape to hide the sides of the light. There is less glare to the sides of the table but what could make it more of a man's room than duct tape on the lights! Of course I used classey looking black tape.
Don't know what to say about the shorter light except that you could probably get a four footer and a two footer to place inside. If you are on an 8 foot table that might work. I find that an 8 foot light is necessary for even lighting on a nine foot light.
The color corrected lights are the best way to go. If you read about them you will learn that they are easier on the eyes. I am 65 this year and often play for 5 - 6 hours. I doubt that I could do that with weaker or un-corrected lights. When I play in the league on seven foot tables I find that after an hour or so my eyes are tired and that I have a more difficult time seeing the balls in many of the taverns where we play. Good lighting is important to me.
In my thinking the lighting is more important than what they look like. I have spent a considerable amount of time building and using my room. I have a particular style that I want and the lights have to be right and meet this style.
OH, BTW one of the things I really like is the use of duct tape to hide the sides of the light. There is less glare to the sides of the table but what could make it more of a man's room than duct tape on the lights! Of course I used classey looking black tape.
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