Lets say for a medium speed stop shot, what is the minimum distance you should follow thru after striking the cueball? I heard the minimum distance should be two ball's width, or is it one? Some people say more, some say less, what say you?
Follow Thru Debate
- Thread starter cuetechasaurus
- Start date
yep like steve said.......you want a natural repeatable stroke, worst thing you can do is be thinking about trying to follow thru a set distance on a shot, practice a stroke that has you going thru the ball and coming to a natural stop, hopefully somewhere up near the top of your shoulder. This is part of the "finish" in set pause finish freeze you see the pool school guys talking about.
zeeder said:
That's only partially correct. it should be 5.7 inches when you're shooting south, 5.54 inches when you're shooting north, 4.78 inches when you're shooting west and 3. 57 inches when you're shooting east( to make up for the spin of the planet). you have to take the average of the distances when you're shooting between any of these directions.
Take your height and divide by your weight. Then add the distance from fingertip to fingertip when your arms are outstretched. Multiply by the length of your cue, minus the ferrule but including the tip (unless you have a Moori tip, then add 2x the tip but not the shaft, and subtract 3 x pi for a Predator shaft). Round the number up to the nearest 10th, and subtract the resulting value from your age. If you're a man, multiply by the length of your unit in centimeters. If you're a woman, multiply by your cup size.
This will give you the perfect value, and when combined with Hal Houle's aiming system, you will never miss a shot again. Efren uses this system and swears by it, but he only told me. He'll be very angry when he finds out I let his secret out of the bag.
This will give you the perfect value, and when combined with Hal Houle's aiming system, you will never miss a shot again. Efren uses this system and swears by it, but he only told me. He'll be very angry when he finds out I let his secret out of the bag.
I think everyone changes the distance that they hit past the cue ball depending on the power required. You can notice it more in snooker than pool. Some pool player’s jump-up, swing arms etc after contact, I have even seen people start walking toward their next shot before the cue stops moving forward. Top players, for the most part, are closer to snooker on their finish. I would say as a general starting point, until you find what is comfortable, go through the same as you take back. On an easy shot, such as a lag, I don’t take the cue back 12” and try to stop the cue 1” past the cue ball. With the table I play, I have a 3” (approx) back swing and try to follow through 3”. For accurate cueing I always try to swing the same speed and shorten or lengthen the stroke for more or less power. That said, If you have spot X inch that you try and stop your follow through at, you will have a very mechanical stiff cueing action that will reduce your power and spin capabilities. I believe it should change on every shot. The trick is not noticing and just do it.
randyg said:
If you stop your cue prematurely, you are tensing up muscles to do so. Following thru is to make sure you don't do anything that could hinder your stroke before you strike the cueball.
How much should you follow through?
I think the follow through, or lack of it, is determined by how you shoot the shot, how far away the object ball is, if it is a straight in shot or if there is an angle for the object ball to take to pot and so on. And then there is the cloth -- the speed of it, that is -- and the humidity to take account of and so on. Is that complex enough ?? LOL You just gotta KNOW how to shoot the shot, adapting to the conditions. Oh, I almost forgot... if the cue ball is hanging on the lip of a corner pocket, and the object ball is hanging on the lip of the caddy-corner pocket, and no rail first shot is available for whatever reason, what should you do? At that point, if the shot is a must shoot shot, you better be able to put a heck of a load of backspin on the cue ball to make sure it doesn't roll into that pocket...
Now, any more questions about stop shots?? LOL
Cheers!
Flex
I think the follow through, or lack of it, is determined by how you shoot the shot, how far away the object ball is, if it is a straight in shot or if there is an angle for the object ball to take to pot and so on. And then there is the cloth -- the speed of it, that is -- and the humidity to take account of and so on. Is that complex enough ?? LOL You just gotta KNOW how to shoot the shot, adapting to the conditions. Oh, I almost forgot... if the cue ball is hanging on the lip of a corner pocket, and the object ball is hanging on the lip of the caddy-corner pocket, and no rail first shot is available for whatever reason, what should you do? At that point, if the shot is a must shoot shot, you better be able to put a heck of a load of backspin on the cue ball to make sure it doesn't roll into that pocket...
Now, any more questions about stop shots?? LOL
Cheers!
Flex
pooltchr said:
I agree 100%. This applies to all shots (draw and follow too). The only exception is to avoid a double hit on the CB.
"two ball's width" ????
Hey "cuetechasaurus",
Please change the term "width".
"A 'brick' has a width, length & depth."
"A 'ball' has a radius and/or diameter."
I agree with "pooltchr", follow thru should be natural; but, you need to modify as required.
"Have a nice day",
Lamar
cuetechasaurus said:
Hey "cuetechasaurus",
Please change the term "width".
"A 'brick' has a width, length & depth."
"A 'ball' has a radius and/or diameter."
I agree with "pooltchr", follow thru should be natural; but, you need to modify as required.
"Have a nice day",
Lamar
caedos
a.k.a. Maestro
Finish Please!
I find that even double hits can be avoided (draw, follow, or side) with the exact same stroke. What I modify is the cue position in that stroke by gripping closer to the tip end. As long as I know the tip is dropping as it goes to contact (pendulum strokes do this) because I'll be in front of perpendicular at contact with the cue-ball, I'm fine. When the ball's are less than about a quarter of an inch I'll also need to judge how far into my chest the grip hand will go (practice, practice, practice) as it hits Finish at different Speeds. If the balls are too close for this then the contact point is probably too close to change much, especially factoring in throw when moving into cut angles with the cue; then I'm back to a normal stroke at a half-ball hit or thinner.
pete lafond said:
I find that even double hits can be avoided (draw, follow, or side) with the exact same stroke. What I modify is the cue position in that stroke by gripping closer to the tip end. As long as I know the tip is dropping as it goes to contact (pendulum strokes do this) because I'll be in front of perpendicular at contact with the cue-ball, I'm fine. When the ball's are less than about a quarter of an inch I'll also need to judge how far into my chest the grip hand will go (practice, practice, practice) as it hits Finish at different Speeds. If the balls are too close for this then the contact point is probably too close to change much, especially factoring in throw when moving into cut angles with the cue; then I'm back to a normal stroke at a half-ball hit or thinner.
lamar25 said:
Who gives a crap about terms? You have too much time on your hands.