Full length core instead of A joint?

[boogieman]

Has anyone ever experimented with a full length core from the butt sleeve to the joint pin? Any reason it wouldn't work or is a bad idea?

I see a lot of cues using an A joint construction method so I'm guessing that's the correct way to do it, but I have a nagging thought that a single core might play better.

I'm not quite at the point of actually building yet but I'm doing some thinking and gathering materials.

 

[Kim Bye]

Sure. Quite a few cuemakers use that as their construction technique. You have more limitations in terms of core woods you can use and you can't mix and match for a desired feel, weight and balance, but most makers use maple or purpleheart anyway, and thats readily available in 30"-31" dowels. I've made several cues that way with a stepped core design.

 

[boogieman]

Sure. Quite a few cuemakers use that as their construction technique. You have more limitations in terms of core woods you can use and you can't mix and match for a desired feel, weight and balance, but most makers use maple or purpleheart anyway, and thats readily available in 30"-31" dowels. I've made several cues that way with a stepped core design.

Thanks for the info.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

I started doing a full core about a year ago. The first time I was making cues, I quickly stopped using a metal pin in the a-joint and went to a long threaded wood tenon. I then started doing partial cores at the joint and butt, so it was a logical progression. I now use a 0.625 core with a 10"x0.750 step centered under the a-joint. 4" is threaded on both ends of the step, so my a-joint is threaded. Makes assembly extremely simple unless I need to align the handle and forearm (so I avoid designing for that, but it isn't rocket science to do, if necessary).

 

[Michael Webb]

Has anyone ever experimented with a full length core from the butt sleeve to the joint pin? Any reason it wouldn't work or is a bad idea?

I see a lot of cues using an A joint construction method so I'm guessing that's the correct way to do it, but I have a nagging thought that a single core might play better.

I'm not quite at the point of actually building yet but I'm doing some thinking and gathering materials.

 

[Chopdoc]

Has anyone ever experimented with a full length core from the butt sleeve to the joint pin? Any reason it wouldn't work or is a bad idea?

I see a lot of cues using an A joint construction method so I'm guessing that's the correct way to do it, but I have a nagging thought that a single core might play better.

I'm not quite at the point of actually building yet but I'm doing some thinking and gathering materials.

That's how Joss cues are built. But it isn't just a dowel. It is a stepped core and the butt sleeve, handle, and forearm are held between the butt cap and joint collar which are threaded on. Dan Janes said it was the most expensive part of the cue because of all the years of development that went into it.

This is the Joss core.

 

[Michael Webb]

I've done 1 piece dowells, this one has an -A- joint in the dowell where the phenolic ring is.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Has anyone ever experimented with a full length core from the butt sleeve to the joint pin? Any reason it wouldn't work or is a bad idea?

I see a lot of cues using an A joint construction method so I'm guessing that's the correct way to do it, but I have a nagging thought that a single core might play better.

I'm not quite at the point of actually building yet but I'm doing some thinking and gathering materials.

The longer the wood, the more warp prone it is . Joining two cores is more stable . Plus it gives you the option of adding weight at the neutral area ( middle of the cue ) .

 

[Chopdoc]

The longer the wood, the more warp prone it is

I have often thought of that. I have seen it said it is best to orient the core grain perpendicular to the grain of the components sleeved over it. I don't know if this is a common practice. Although it seems to make sense, I don't know the true value of it.

It also makes me wonder about laminated cores (especially radially), or perhaps alternative materials.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have often thought of that. I have seen it said it is best to orient the core grain perpendicular to the grain of the components sleeved over it. I don't know if this is a common practice. Although it seems to make sense, I don't know the true value of it.

It also makes me wonder about laminated cores (especially radially), or perhaps alternative materials.

That's a common practice.

Laminated cores are used by many. Flat and pies.

 

[Chopdoc]

That's a common practice.

Laminated cores are used by many. Flat and pies.

Thanks. I really didn't know it was common practice.

What about alternative materials? Non-wood, or even synthetic....like maybe fiberglass, phenolics, carbon fiber, polymer, or other things? I am not suggesting any of them, just wondering if anybody is doing something like that.

I realize that CF and polymers are exploding on the market, but I am wondering about cues with more traditional looks (wood) that might be more sophisticated inside. Especially if a custom maker is doing it.

I started playing again and ran into one of the better players in my area recently. It was cool to chat with him. He's using a Predator Revo cue now. I had not seen him in more than five years since I was not around. I know he has some cool customs, and last time I saw him his regular player was a custom. We talked briefly about his transition and it was an interesting conversation.

That's all good. It's fine. But I still love traditional cues.

These new cue butts look like the cheap fiberglass and "titanium" cues of yesteryear to me.

 

[Michael Webb]

Thanks. I really didn't know it was common practice.

What about alternative materials? Non-wood, or even synthetic....like maybe fiberglass, phenolics, carbon fiber, polymer, or other things? I am not suggesting any of them, just wondering if anybody is doing something like that.

I realize that CF and polymers are exploding on the market, but I am wondering about cues with more traditional looks (wood) that might be more sophisticated inside. Especially if a custom maker is doing it.

I started playing again and ran into one of the better players in my area recently. It was cool to chat with him. He's using a Predator Revo cue now. I had not seen him in more than five years since I was not around. I know he has some cool customs, and last time I saw him his regular player was a custom. We talked briefly about his transition and it was an interesting conversation.

That's all good. It's fine. But I still love traditional cues.

These new cue butts look like the cheap fiberglass and "titanium" cues of yesteryear to me.

Schon has a couple of Prototypes with a non wood core.

 

[Chopdoc]

Schon has a couple of Prototypes with a non wood core.

Thanks!

Good to hear from you.

I was thinking of you this afternoon. I started digging into my cues that have been stored for 5 1/2 years. Some of them need work. If I lived next door to you I would be bugging you to look at something every hour. LOL! I really should get a repair lathe.

 

[Michael Webb]

Thanks!

Good to hear from you.

I was thinking of you this afternoon. I started digging into my cues that have been stored for 5 1/2 years. Some of them need work. If I lived next door to you I would be bugging you to look at something every hour. LOL! I really should get a repair lathe.

You would have fun playing with my puppy.

 

[cueman]

I have about 50 butts Rueben Fisher glued up with wood cores going all the way through.
They are mostly colored laminated wood with a laminated core. If anyone is interested I will sell them for $125 each. Most have joint ring and butt plate of what I believe to be Juma glued on already. PM me if interested.

 

[CavinTan]

Carbon cores with wood thru the entire cue isnt that new either. Has been done over 10 years ago.
Some like the hit & feedback of the cue, i personally do not.

The upside is you dont have to deal with warping, and shorter turn around time when tapering.

 

[Chopdoc]

I have about 50 butts Rueben Fisher glued up with wood cores going all the way through.
They are mostly colored laminated wood with a laminated core. If anyone is interested I will sell them for $125 each. Most have joint ring and butt plate of what I believe to be Juma glued on already. PM me if interested.

Dymondwood?

Can you show pictures?

I am not just curious, I am a potential buyer.

 

[Chopdoc]

Carbon cores with wood thru the entire cue isnt that new either. Has been done over 10 years ago.
Some like the hit & feedback of the cue, i personally do not.

The upside is you dont have to deal with warping, and shorter turn around time when tapering.

Wood warping can bend steel. And there are a variety of ways to produce a carbon fiber rod. I'm not sure blanket statements could be correct on these matters. But I don't doubt your experience.

I am interested in more specifics.

 

[cueman]

Dymondwood?

Can you show pictures?

I am not just curious, I am a potential buyer.

Not Dymond Wood but Color Wood. Meaning not acrylic impregnated. Natural colored veneers.

 

[cueman]

Dymondwood?

Can you show pictures?

I am not just curious, I am a potential buyer.

Here are the full cored Colored Veneer Butterfly Blanks. Your choice $125 each Shipped inside Continental USA.
First one to post up the number of the blank (or blanks) they want gets it. These look great wrapped or with the handle stained.
They are over .900" at the joint and over 1.300" at the butt end. I believe the joint rings and butt plates are made of black Juma.