Full splice jig
- Thread starter tableman
- Start date
Hey Scott,
Glad to hear you're back up and working.
I also love hearing you're working on a full spliced jig. I hope to see a left side and right side for a pair of dedicated radial arm saws, along with the fixture to cut the female side on the band saw. Will your set up have adjustments to tweek the angles???
Take care my friend,
John
Glad to hear you're back up and working.
I also love hearing you're working on a full spliced jig. I hope to see a left side and right side for a pair of dedicated radial arm saws, along with the fixture to cut the female side on the band saw. Will your set up have adjustments to tweek the angles???
Take care my friend,
John
Hi Kelly. Wasn't meant to correct, just putting my 2 cents in.
full splice idea
Has anyone tried this method of building full splice blanks?
Start by milling it on a taper on four sides
then slice in four
then rotate the pieces 180 and relaminate
I have been thinking of this idea for a while and it would have alot of advantages. Your faces would be all milled nice and you would also have less chance of warpage because of the lamination process. The one major disadvantage is grain matching but with solid grain woods like purple or ebony it wouldnt be a big deal. Anyway it is just an idea and was looking for feed back. I thought this was related so I appologize if I am highjacking.
Has anyone tried this method of building full splice blanks?
Start by milling it on a taper on four sides
then slice in four
then rotate the pieces 180 and relaminate
I have been thinking of this idea for a while and it would have alot of advantages. Your faces would be all milled nice and you would also have less chance of warpage because of the lamination process. The one major disadvantage is grain matching but with solid grain woods like purple or ebony it wouldnt be a big deal. Anyway it is just an idea and was looking for feed back. I thought this was related so I appologize if I am highjacking.
full splice idea
Hey tableman, well judging by the response my idea must be great lol.
As far as the fronts are concerned I think I will do them in the horizontal mill and machine them as squares. I will build a dedicated jig to hold the piece at the correct angle then index them in the jig four times. I will find the biggest 90 deg milling cutter I can. The secret to keeping them accurate in MOP is to machine your blanks perfect before milling your angles and your 90 deg slots. So it will be much like using the radial arm but using a horizontal mill instead. My hopes are that if I build good repeatable jigs for the mill that I wont have to tie up any machine. I think that is what is the biggest pain.
Hey tableman, well judging by the response my idea must be great lol.
As far as the fronts are concerned I think I will do them in the horizontal mill and machine them as squares. I will build a dedicated jig to hold the piece at the correct angle then index them in the jig four times. I will find the biggest 90 deg milling cutter I can. The secret to keeping them accurate in MOP is to machine your blanks perfect before milling your angles and your 90 deg slots. So it will be much like using the radial arm but using a horizontal mill instead. My hopes are that if I build good repeatable jigs for the mill that I wont have to tie up any machine. I think that is what is the biggest pain.
Actually that's quite a good idea to try.
Has anyone tried this method of building full splice blank?
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It's a clever idea ok - problem I see is it isn't really a fulsplice -
it's an extended half-splice...sorta...,
Not that I personally care all that much - but, IMHO - those
who enthuse over fullsplices, are not likely to be very receptive.
Also, IMHO - it really isn't going to be all that much easier to build than
the 'traditional fullsplice - tho I could be wrong.
Dale
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It's a clever idea ok - problem I see is it isn't really a fulsplice -
it's an extended half-splice...sorta...,
Not that I personally care all that much - but, IMHO - those
who enthuse over fullsplices, are not likely to be very receptive.
Also, IMHO - it really isn't going to be all that much easier to build than
the 'traditional fullsplice - tho I could be wrong.
Dale
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I agree with Dale, it's more of an extended half-splice, but it does give you that look and could make for a pretty interesting cue! I would be curious to see one of them. I'm a fan of full-splice cues, but I'm open to the idea you have and see what it's like. When you get one worked up, be sure to post pictures in the gallery so we can see how it turns out!
Has anyone tried this method of building full splice blanks?
Start by milling it on a taper on four sides
then slice in four
then rotate the pieces 180 and relaminate
I have been thinking of this idea for a while and it would have alot of advantages. Your faces would be all milled nice and you would also have less chance of warpage because of the lamination process. The one major disadvantage is grain matching but with solid grain woods like purple or ebony it wouldnt be a big deal. Anyway it is just an idea and was looking for feed back. I thought this was related so I appologize if I am highjacking.
I gotta say I spent a few hours thinking about this concept, and kinda like the idea but I wondered about how it could be accurately jigged up to make the secondary cuts. I then thought it might be easier to cut the original piece of wood in quarters, run them through a good jointer/planer or thickness planer into identical squares. Then make a jig to put the tapered cuts on each piece individually. The forearm cuts could be done on a mill, cnc router or even a lathe with taper attachment. This would be about the same as a short splice with extended points through the handle.
and just a different way of arriving at what you've suggested.
His original design is correct. The squared up stock with the 4 angles cut could be sawed into 4 pieces and the saw cuts will be on the outside which will be turned round. Your way adds a few steps into the process. The biggest problem I see is all the mating parts must have sharp ends. There will be the 4 veneer pieces that must mate to the butt piece with sharp ends. Then the forearm + piece must be dead sharp also. That makes 12 intersections that must be dead sharp. I believe this is do able, but more difficult than making a full splice with a band saw that has one or two blade widths at the base of the points. If this is done correctly, the base points will be dead sharp as well as the top points.
jig I came up with
I came up with this jig, using a router and a 1/2" straight bit. My forearm piece will need a little fine sanding to get a super tight fit, but I think it will work. I am using this to repair an old 70's Viking VIP, worthless I know, but someone told me it could not be fixed and I just have to prove them wrong. Any ideas would be appreciated, especially since I have never made a cue.
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/sac14214/Viking VIP/6.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/sac14214/Viking VIP/7.jpg
I came up with this jig, using a router and a 1/2" straight bit. My forearm piece will need a little fine sanding to get a super tight fit, but I think it will work. I am using this to repair an old 70's Viking VIP, worthless I know, but someone told me it could not be fixed and I just have to prove them wrong. Any ideas would be appreciated, especially since I have never made a cue.
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/sac14214/Viking VIP/6.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/sac14214/Viking VIP/7.jpg
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Great idea, i really like your creativity in this.
The originality is what is impressive, especially if you have never seen a full splice setup. Very cool.
I guess you are intending on trying to remove the prong from the existing stick thats in the pictures. I'm not doubting you because obviously your pretty handy. But running that front through a bandsaw and getting it perfect on the opposing side "the bottom unseen side" will probably be more than difficult.
Anyway, hope you will stick with it perfecting this regardless the outcome of this project. please keep us updated.
I guess you are intending on trying to remove the prong from the existing stick thats in the pictures. I'm not doubting you because obviously your pretty handy. But running that front through a bandsaw and getting it perfect on the opposing side "the bottom unseen side" will probably be more than difficult.
Anyway, hope you will stick with it perfecting this regardless the outcome of this project. please keep us updated.
That is an option for doing this procedure but this is the easy part of building a full splice and few cue makers have any problems duplicating this part fairly quickly on a lathe or mill. The other half, where the points are cut on a band saw, table saw, radial saw or a large side cutting blade is the hard part.
Dick