Full splice lost art

I think this in people's heads. If not told how a cue was built i seriously doubt few, if any, could tell you how it was constructed.

No Sir. There a more than a few construction procedures and some do have a different feel. I have brought and sold 50-60 cues and have owned some of everything, I have a three full splice cues and thats all I play with now because of the hit.

The next time your at Derby ask one of the vendors to hit a few with a full splice cue and then a cored cue and you'll feel the difference right away.
 
For nostalgia, I wanted a 'full splice cue'. For old time craftmanship, I called John Davis (RIP) the well known full splice blank maker. After several discussions, we decided he would make the butt. A butt made for playing and not as a piece of furniture. Our decision included an ebony forearm, bocote handle, and 4 veneer inserts. Bocote is aesthetically pleasing, harder than hard maple, and good to work with.

John sent a couple blanks of ebony, several of bocote, and about 30 sample colors veneers for me to choose from.
I chose an ebony blank and one of the bocote blanks. Even though all decisions were made for function, the choice of colors had no effect and were up to me. I selected 4 colors and sequence, and sent all to John to fabricate. A couple of months later I received the butt blank. Many thanks to John Davis, a real craftsman and gentleman.

A good friend of mine and well known cue maker, Alex Brick (RIP) was pre-selected to finish the cue. This included progressive turning, selecting the joint, weight, balance point, finish, etc. Selecting the shaft was easy. I wanted the best ever shaft for me...another OB Classic. Alex was friends with and called Roynce Brunnell, owner of OB, and purchased a hand selected OB Classic for me. It was all coming together.

Two years after deciding on a 'full splice cue' it arrived. To me, it is the best cue I have ever hit with and that is all that matters.

Within months after receiving this cue...John Davis, Alex Brick, and Roynce Brunnell have passed leaving a cherished legacy.
That is a great story! Thanks for sharing it. You are lucky to have such a nice cue from a great craftsman.
 
There is nothing more full splice than a house cue. When I got my first cue, a cocobolo Meucci plain jane in 1995 or so, I liked it way better than the house cues I've been using up until then;)
Sure, but the house cue has very different specs. Usually bigger diameter, with very stiff tapers and cheap tips. The difference that makes, compared to the fact that it's spliced is like comparing an ant to an elephant.
 
I think anyone will agree that some kind of tenon is required to join the pieces of a three-piece butt--there is no way that simply face gluing will keep a cue together.
You would be wrong on that, as I know of at least 2 prominent custom cue makers that don't tenon the A-joint. One of them actually tried to talk me into adopting it, the other I discovered while repairing a cue.
 
This is turning into the dumbest thread ever on AZ, some of you have NO idea what you are talking about.

Goddamn there's some ignorant Mf'ers on this site

It's embarrassing
Great start to another year of inane posts, quips, and other assorted bs. ;) Seriously tho, if you took ten cues with varying methods of construction/assembly and let people hit them i SERIOUSLY doubt 5% could tell how they were made based on the hit. Back in the day they already proved you can't tell a cue by the joint and now you got nimrods out there that can tell the hit by how the butt's made. WTF?? Happy New Year bro.............................
 
You would be wrong on that, as I know of at least 2 prominent custom cue makers that don't tenon the A-joint. One of them actually tried to talk me into adopting it, the other I discovered while repairing a cue.

But they did not rely on just glue, correct? They had a threaded connection in addition to the glue?
 
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No Sir. There a more than a few construction procedures and some do have a different feel. I have brought and sold 50-60 cues and have owned some of everything, I have a three full splice cues and thats all I play with now because of the hit.

The next time your at Derby ask one of the vendors to hit a few with a full splice cue and then a cored cue and you'll feel the difference right away.
Finally someone with cue experience. And enough knowledge to know has spoken. This site truly is a waste of time.
 
Great start to another year of inane posts, quips, and other assorted bs. ;) Seriously tho, if you took ten cues with varying methods of construction/assembly and let people hit them i SERIOUSLY doubt 5% could tell how they were made based on the hit. Back in the day they already proved you can't tell a cue by the joint and now you got nimrods out there that can tell the hit by how the butt's made. WTF?? Happy New Year bro.............................

OK, so I agree to a certain extent that if you wrapped a bunch of cues from the joint on down with masking tape players might not be able to discern the method of their construction -- but I think they would find that they prefer the hit of certain cues, with similar construction, over others.

Lou Figueroa
 
For nostalgia, I wanted a 'full splice cue'. For old time craftmanship, I called John Davis (RIP) the well known full splice blank maker. After several discussions, we decided he would make the butt. A butt made for playing and not as a piece of furniture. Our decision included an ebony forearm, bocote handle, and 4 veneer inserts. Bocote is aesthetically pleasing, harder than hard maple, and good to work with.

John sent a couple blanks of ebony, several of bocote, and about 30 sample colors veneers for me to choose from.
I chose an ebony blank and one of the bocote blanks. Even though all decisions were made for function, the choice of colors had no effect and were up to me. I selected 4 colors and sequence, and sent all to John to fabricate. A couple of months later I received the butt blank. Many thanks to John Davis, a real craftsman and gentleman.

A good friend of mine and well known cue maker, Alex Brick (RIP) was pre-selected to finish the cue. This included progressive turning, selecting the joint, weight, balance point, finish, etc. Selecting the shaft was easy. I wanted the best ever shaft for me...another OB Classic. Alex was friends with and called Roynce Brunnell, owner of OB, and purchased a hand selected OB Classic for me. It was all coming together.

Two years after deciding on a 'full splice cue' it arrived. To me, it is the best cue I have ever hit with and that is all that matters.

Within months after receiving this cue...John Davis, Alex Brick, and Roynce Brunnell have passed leaving a cherished legacy.View attachment 799828View attachment 799828
@Tennesseejoe, why did you not get John to do the whole cue?

I was lucky enough that he built the whole cue, had to send him the sketch by snail mail( postal letter) was late 2006, he had finished it by December 2008 as signed.

16 years later think it is still the best design for a full splice and nobody better to have made it ;)

It still is way too fancy to play with though!
 

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OK, so I agree to a certain extent that if you wrapped a bunch of cues from the joint on down with masking tape players might not be able to discern the method of their construction -- but I think they would find that they prefer the hit of certain cues, with similar construction, over others.

Lou Figueroa
Very possible. Most cues that the 'cue people' seem to rave about on here are not FS cues, some yes but many are not. The simple fact a cue is a FS does not mean its going to play/hit/feel better. Way too many other factors that add-up to determine the 'hit'.
 
Finally someone with cue experience. And enough knowledge to know has spoken. This site truly is a waste of time.
Been buying/selling/using cues since about '79 bucko. I've owned just about every style of cue AND construction method. There are WAAAAY too many factors that determine the 'hit' of a cue to say that a fs is any better playing/feeling cue. What's a 'waste of time' is putting up with people that believe in 'feelings' with nothing to back it up. BTW, the best 'feeling'(whatever that fk that really means) cue i ever owned was a half-splice, steel-joint Richard Black with ivory ferrules. I've owned a few FS cues and none came close to this one. Had to sell it and still miss it.
 
Very possible. Most cues that the 'cue people' seem to rave about on here are not FS cues, some yes but many are not. The simple fact a cue is a FS does not mean its going to play/hit/feel better. Way too many other factors that add-up to determine the 'hit'.

Been buying/selling/using cues since about '79 bucko. I've owned just about every style of cue AND construction method. There are WAAAAY too many factors that determine the 'hit' of a cue to say that a fs is any better playing/feeling cue. What's a 'waste of time' is putting up with people that believe in 'feelings' with nothing to back it up. BTW, the best 'feeling'(whatever that fk that really means) cue i ever owned was a half-splice, steel-joint Richard Black with ivory ferrules. I've owned a few FS cues and none came close to this one. Had to sell it and still miss it.

It's funny how the people who claim that one construction method 'hits' better than another are rarely not cuemakers, and virtually never have any sort of valid theory as to why their claim might be true.

I've never seen a single person offer an sort of evidence to their statement.
 
It's funny how the people who claim that one construction method 'hits' better than another are rarely not cuemakers, and virtually never have any sort of valid theory as to why their claim might be true.

I've never seen a single person offer an sort of evidence to their statement.
You get sense/feel bs combined with ancient pool 'old wives tales' and this is where you get. IF, and its a BIG if, FS cues were so much better then makers would tool up and crank them out. There's just nothing to validate any of it. I have pretty good 'cue memory' and i can't recall a fs cue that stood out to me enough to make me go all fs in future buys. Most all of the faves were merry-widows(my favorite design) or half-splice cues. Look, i love the old-school technique and look of a nice fs cue but to say they 'play'(again, just wtf does that mean) better is just not provable.
 
You would be wrong on that, as I know of at least 2 prominent custom cue makers that don't tenon the A-joint. One of them actually tried to talk me into adopting it, the other I discovered while repairing a cue.
The minute you think you know it all you are done learning & growing. “You don’t know what you don’t know”
 
You get sense/feel bs combined with ancient pool 'old wives tales' and this is where you get. IF, and its a BIG if, FS cues were so much better then makers would tool up and crank them out. There's just nothing to validate any of it. I have pretty good 'cue memory' and i can't recall a fs cue that stood out to me enough to make me go all fs in future buys. Most all of the faves were merry-widows(my favorite design) or half-splice cues. Look, i love the old-school technique and look of a nice fs cue but to say they 'play'(again, just wtf does that mean) better is just not provable.

A well done full splice is a masterwork by any definition.
 
OK, so I agree to a certain extent that if you wrapped a bunch of cues from the joint on down with masking tape players might not be able to discern the method of their construction -- but I think they would find that they prefer the hit of certain cues, with similar construction, over others.

Lou Figueroa
100%
 
They core cues because they can't build a cue properly imho.

They don't want to take the time to turn a cue down over time, so they use cores to "prevent" them from warping.

I know some makers who turn them down over 10 years or longer, taking small passes every year or so until the cue doesn't "move" (warp) any longer.

I never hear of them having to throw any forearms away from warpage, nor do I hear of them getting cues back because they warped.
You have got this totally wrong. If you think coring is only done to avoid warping, you are wrong. How do you suggest building a ebony butt without coring? Coring is also done to achieve the right weigh and balance, pluss it lets you use a wider variation of woods, burls are a good example of woods that would be hard to use without coring.
 
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