Coring has nothing to do with full or half splice. It's exactly like it sounds
Full splice lost art
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Cores are bad, cuz that's where the seeds are.
Full splice cues shoot the cue ball straighter, and the cue ball rolls straighter because a full splice cue shot it. It's a virtuous cycle. It's just common sense. Now please someone come out with a full splice ferule and come take this $$$.
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I'm looking for full splice chalk
For nostalgia, I wanted a 'full splice cue'. For old time craftmanship, I called John Davis (RIP) the well known full splice blank maker. After several discussions, we decided he would make the butt. A butt made for playing and not as a piece of furniture. Our decision included an ebony forearm, bocote handle, and 4 veneer inserts. Bocote is aesthetically pleasing, harder than hard maple, and good to work with.
John sent a couple blanks of ebony, several of bocote, and about 30 sample colors veneers for me to choose from.
I chose an ebony blank and one of the bocote blanks. Even though all decisions were made for function, the choice of colors had no effect and were up to me. I selected 4 colors and sequence, and sent all to John to fabricate. A couple of months later I received the butt blank. Many thanks to John Davis, a real craftsman and gentleman.
A good friend of mine and well known cue maker, Alex Brick (RIP) was pre-selected to finish the cue. This included progressive turning, selecting the joint, weight, balance point, finish, etc. Selecting the shaft was easy. I wanted the best ever shaft for me...another OB Classic. Alex was friends with and called Roynce Brunnell, owner of OB, and purchased a hand selected OB Classic for me. It was all coming together.
Two years after deciding on a 'full splice cue' it arrived. To me, it is the best cue I have ever hit with and that is all that matters.
Within months after receiving this cue...John Davis, Alex Brick, and Roynce Brunnell have passed leaving a cherished legacy.
John sent a couple blanks of ebony, several of bocote, and about 30 sample colors veneers for me to choose from.
I chose an ebony blank and one of the bocote blanks. Even though all decisions were made for function, the choice of colors had no effect and were up to me. I selected 4 colors and sequence, and sent all to John to fabricate. A couple of months later I received the butt blank. Many thanks to John Davis, a real craftsman and gentleman.
A good friend of mine and well known cue maker, Alex Brick (RIP) was pre-selected to finish the cue. This included progressive turning, selecting the joint, weight, balance point, finish, etc. Selecting the shaft was easy. I wanted the best ever shaft for me...another OB Classic. Alex was friends with and called Roynce Brunnell, owner of OB, and purchased a hand selected OB Classic for me. It was all coming together.
Two years after deciding on a 'full splice cue' it arrived. To me, it is the best cue I have ever hit with and that is all that matters.
Within months after receiving this cue...John Davis, Alex Brick, and Roynce Brunnell have passed leaving a cherished legacy.
Beautiful
Of course. But of course you didn't read what I said earlier.
I’m totally confused. It reads like you’re saying that an Andy Gilbert jump/break is a full spliced because “you can tell by looking at the joint where the cue shaft joins.”
Nothing you wrote makes sense. Are you sure you know what a full splice is? My Andy Gilbert j/b is half-spliced and couldn’t be confused with a full splice.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I've built cues several different ways.
I think anyone will agree that some kind of tenon is required to join the pieces of a three-piece butt--there is no way that simply face gluing will keep a cue together.
My first cues (1996) were wrapped, so I would just use a 20-ish inch piece of maple for the handle and turn the tenons directly on that, bore the forearm to fit, then bore through the butt sleeve, and glue up. I quickly found that the A-joint developed a rattle if the cue was slapped from the side--not something I ever recommend someone do to their cue, but a cue shouldn't rattle if they do.
So, I reduced the tenon in the forearm to about 2.5" and added 1.5" of all-thread and screwed my cues together. This took care of the rattle , but I always hated having metal in the cue, and some woods don't thread well with a machine tap (still pre-2000).
Then I found out that I disliked wrapped cues, so I started using expensive woods in all three segments. It is ridiculous to even consider wasting a beautiful wood to turn it down to a tenon...though I did on a couple.
I then devised a plan to use a threaded wood tenon, 3/4"-8 threaded with 2" of unthreaded section in the middle to align the pieces. Woo-hoo, no metal, no rattle! Then I found that adding a tenon in the joint end of the cue helped, also. So, suddenly I was coring 2/3 of the forearm, 2/3 of the handle, and the entire butt sleeve. Huh.
So after many years away from making cues, I got back into it a few years ago, and recently started doing a full core. It is way easier, the weight can be tailored without metal, and the backbone of the cue is a solid piece.
Win
Win
Win.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Oh, c'mon, surely he's an expert. He so eloquently defended his position with all the science behind his theory. I mean, the graphs, the charts, the accelerometer readings, the FEA...not to mention that he is the grand champion of a three block area.
Im fairly sure it was built full splice then cut for the jump handle . At any rate, it hits better. Not that hard to understand. Lots of people buy the jump break gilberts and use as a player because they hit well.
I wouldnt pull all that stuff out for dipshits like you. No offense.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Oh burn.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Oh, now you are 'fairly sure'. If you were sure of anything, you'd know that if it weren't cut at a point where you could be 100% sure, it is effectively a half splice.
Now go back to what you do best and pull on something.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
BTW, is this the cue you are talking about:
New Andy Gilbert
Just bought the cheapest gilbert player you can buy. I've never read a bad word about Gilbert or his cues. It is simple and perfect. Thought I may get an LD shaft for it but it shoots so well with his standard shaft that I won't be. It's point...
forums.azbilliards.com
It’s just a cue
It’s not alll that man
How long have you been building cues? Coring is a lot of work and it has little to do with short cutting how patient you are turning a cue down?
Ever had a nice piece of buckeye Burl blowup on the lathe? Sure did feel solid. Never would have thought about that weak spot, it was so small. Felt so dense and heavy after stabilizing.
I’ve been stabilizing wood for some years. Especially heavily figured exotic type stuff. Spalted wood can have serious voids that aren’t overcome by just stabilizing and turning slowly.
You never truly know what you got until it’s turned down. If you core you’re adding a significant layer of protection for all you put into buying the wood and stabilizing it.
I’ve also learned that coring brings cue weights into a range where you have a lot more flexibility.
Stabilizing brings a lot of resin weight. Even turned a stabilized 28oz maple Burl?
Who’s gonna buy that?
In my personal experience a 6’9” former NBA player. But I can’t say I’ve ever had a customer like that again.
I think his view on the matter is
Asscue
Asscue
There is nothing more full splice than a house cue. When I got my first cue, a cocobolo Meucci plain jane in 1995 or so, I liked it way better than the house cues I've been using up until then
Since purchasing that cue i purchased the jump break which is a spliced cue.