Full Splice vs. Regular Cues

9Ballr

9Ballr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have never known what the deal is on the full splice cues.
Never owned one. Naturally we've all played with house cues.

But I wanted to ask what some of the the differences are
between full splice and a regular cue?

I've been talking to a cue maker and this came up as an option
and I'm not sure if I should go regular or full splice.

Seems like the full splice is somewhat cheaper but I'm not willing
to buy one if it means it's not as good a cue.

Any full splice guys out there who could tell me the difference in
feel vs. their regular cues?
 
Already undertook this mission!

9Ballr said:
I have never known what the deal is on the full splice cues.
Never owned one. Naturally we've all played with house cues.

But I wanted to ask what some of the the differences are
between full splice and a regular cue?

I've been talking to a cue maker and this came up as an option
and I'm not sure if I should go regular or full splice.

Seems like the full splice is somewhat cheaper but I'm not willing
to buy one if it means it's not as good a cue.

Any full splice guys out there who could tell me the difference in
feel vs. their regular cues?
Click to expand...

I tried getting a explanation on this recently. Eric Crisp of Sugartree had the best answer. If I can find the thread I'll post a link. I think it was in the cue makers section.
 
Last edited:
Shooter08 said:
I tried getting a explanation on this recently. Eric Crisp of Sugartree had the best answer. If I can find the thread I'll post a link. I think it was in the cue makers section.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for your help.

I've looked all over and have not gotten any definite answers yet.

Thanks again.
 
Check out the Davis thread I bumped, hope it helps. Took forever to find the right thread
 
Not sure what this particular person meant by "regular" but just to compare two basic cues for the sake of comparison lets compare a house cue to a plain jane.

A plain jane cue join's the handle and forearm, typically with a pin. Called the "A Joint".

A house cue is two pieces spliced together, hence "fullsplice" as the cue is two parts fully spliced together.
 
Good luck finding an answer to that question. Technology and build techniques have blured the lines between full splice and spliced cues. Best to find a builder who's cues you like the way they play. Not worry so much about how they are constructed.

I assume when you say full splice are cheaper. The builder you are talking to is talking about doing a sneaky or building someone elses blank. Most builders I know. Charge more for a full splice. If they make the blank.

Larry
 
63Kcode said:
Good luck finding an answer to that question. Technology and build techniques have blured the lines between full splice and spliced cues. Best to find a builder who's cues you like the way they play. Not worry so much about how they are constructed.

I assume when you say full splice are cheaper. The builder you are talking to is talking about doing a sneaky or building someone elses blank. Most builders I know. Charge more for a full splice. If they make the blank.

Larry
Click to expand...
I've always tried to keep it simple. A fullsplice cue is the points handle and butt all as one piece spliced into the forearm. The inclusion of an A joint would be anything else. Then you could debate a full splice style of construction vs. recut points.
 
Bishop said:
I've always tried to keep it simple. A fullsplice cue is the points handle and butt all as one piece spliced into the forearm. The inclusion of an A joint would be anything else. Then you could debate a full splice style of construction vs. recut points.
Click to expand...

So what if a cue has no a joint, but is not a traditional full splice?

Larry
 
63Kcode said:
So what if a cue has no a joint, but is not a traditional full splice?

Larry
Click to expand...
:thumbup: well you got me there. I guess that would fall under category "other". No A joint and no splice.

I assume you mean a cue that for example would be a 29'' shaft/joint/29'' piece of bocote. Would be a fine playing cue.
 
Merry Widow- 1 piece of wood, can be one piece or cut and have a A joint
Plain Jane- more than one piece of wood with butt, handle, forearm w/ A joint
Short Splice/Half Splice- inlayed points with A joint
Full splice- actual fully spliced points, may have veneers no A Joint.

Please feel free to add or correct any errors. THx
 
Last edited:
I believe it was done originally for weight & balance reasons.

Then I think it became popular for having the looks of a better cue.

Then I think somewhere along the line the better cue thing faded.

IMHO a full splice cue IS a better cue.

Bob Meucci commented when testing an Adam Balabushka cue for his Black Dot shaft testing for squirt/deflection that it must have been a very well made butt.

I think that was the conception that fostered the later birth of his Power Piston butts.

If I had a choice, I'd go full spliced.

Good Luck with whatever You decide.
Rick
 
I have 1 cored cue by wes hunter, 1 fullsplice by eric crisp and 1 a-jointed cue by eric crisp (with uncored forearm and handle). honestly I loved them all and got on well with all of them after a few months play.

with eric and wes allegedly share there shaft wood, I would say the difference in the shaft taper they use is easier to feel than how they build the butt.
 
ENGLISH! said:
IMHO a full splice cue IS a better cue.

Rick
Click to expand...

I do share this with you, I am not sure why, definitely not the "feel" factor but when I play with my fullsplice sugartree I got to a higher level of finesse and cue ball accuracy than other cue
 
Ctran and Rick,

Just a quick thanks to you for the excellent information.

Shooter 08, I'm going through the tread you talked about.
Thanks for all your work.
 
I think and I could be wrong full splice cues tend to be a little heavier in the butt , however I think Balabushka put a bolt in the A joint and with a steel collar it moves the balance point forward ,, AKA known as forward balance he did this with titlest cues and then Szamboni who started making his own blanks which I believe is the most desirable ,

Let's say you have a ebony blank wrap less it would be very difficult to get the cue under 19 oz so you cut out the handle and add rock maple in its place and you bring the cue down in weight ,
The hit has more to do with the Farrell an tip , how the cue feels in your hands has more to do with the construction ,, for instance I have a Dan Dicola ebony Merry Widow that dials in at just over 18oz ,, I'm more than sure it's because it's cored and sleeved I seriously doubt you could get that weight just cutting out the handle

In today's world if you have a one piece cue a 261/2 in from the era and cut the cue down to today's handle thickness and add a butt section and if it's mine they put on a ivory sleeved over steel joint with a redial pin a laminate shaft and a Kamui clear tip
And you have a monster playing cue

9
 
63Kcode said:
Good luck finding an answer to that question. Technology and build techniques have blured the lines between full splice and spliced cues. Best to find a builder who's cues you like the way they play. Not worry so much about how they are constructed.

I assume when you say full splice are cheaper. The builder you are talking to is talking about doing a sneaky or building someone elses blank. Most builders I know. Charge more for a full splice. If they make the blank.

Larry
Click to expand...

Larry is right on spot.
 
9Ballr said:
I have never known what the deal is on the full splice cues.
Never owned one. Naturally we've all played with house cues.

But I wanted to ask what some of the the differences are
between full splice and a regular cue?

I've been talking to a cue maker and this came up as an option
and I'm not sure if I should go regular or full splice.

Seems like the full splice is somewhat cheaper but I'm not willing
to buy one if it means it's not as good a cue.

Any full splice guys out there who could tell me the difference in
feel vs. their regular cues?
Click to expand...

I've had every type of construction in cues, and I stopped looking when I started playing with full splice cues. It's a matter of preference, but for me, full splice all the way. I really like the hit and feedback. Many will insist you can't tell the difference, but I swear I can. I also prefer that a full splice cue either be wrapless or have the return points above the wrap; I like to see the work that went into the full splice! :grin-square:
 
My question to Eric Crisp of Sugartree Cues:

Eric, In theory is a full splice a better way to build a butt than any of the other current build methods? If yes what blanks do you prefer to work with outside of Davis blanks? THx

Mr. Crisps Response:

"Well it used to be, but we have been past that point for a long time. IMO, nothing beats a well executed "A" joint in a cue made with good wood. It's so much more versatile than a full splice in weight distribution, weight range, balance, wood selection, and obviously the design. A full splice is a full splice. It's what you got, the same thing that's been built for more than a century. You can inlay it, vary the veneer colors, but it's still a full splice. With modern joinery, the sky is the limit.

In terms of playability, I would argue there's very little if any difference between full splice and "A" joint. If the cue maker has a clue, the cue will hit good whether it's a solid wood butt, full splice, or modern 3-piece with "A" joint. I would further argue that I, as the builder, have more flexibility to create a specific hit/feel if I do not use a full splice. If I thought for a moment that full splice was in any way superior, that's how I'd be making all of my cues. I'm not saying there's anything wrong or bad about full splice, just that it puts a lot of limitations on the builder but doesn't perform any better. IMO, full splices are for traditionalists who appreciate that particular technique. For those folks, a full splice is the best. For the other 99% of us, there are other options available."

Thanks again for the info Eric. I had been looking for a answer for quite some time. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
 
Tom,

Thanks for the post.....very informative........this was very succinctly explained by a well respected name in cue-making........thanks Eric...........a terrific synopsis incorporating very pertinent observations.

Matt B.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top