g-10 joint

M

mrinsatiable

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Has anyone ever considered using g-10 material for something else other than a pin? i.e. Joint Ring, handle, ferrule?

It's stronger than most paper based phenolic. The material does come in the black color. I'd like to try one for either a solid joint or just a joint ring. I read on here that it was abrasive and flexes. But if the material is used in a static component part like a joint ring. Are there any cons to that?
 
I use it for ferrule's from time to time with a leather tip, works great. I haven't bought it in larger form yet but want to.

Craig
 
I used the green G10 for joint collars for a friends cue...It looked horrid. So transparent the woods showed through...making it look odd.
Here is a pic of a ferule...you can see the shaft & tip tenons. The blk G10 may be a better way to go....but I see zero advantage in using it over blk phenolic.;)
 

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g-10 is lighter than phenolic

I'm thinking of using it for a handle. G-10 is lighter and stronger than phenolic.

I'd only use the black one though. How did you get it so smooth?

Was it hard to machine/finish?
 
Varney Cues said:
I used the green G10 for joint collars for a friends cue...It looked horrid. So transparent the woods showed through...making it look odd.
Here is a pic of a ferule...you can see the shaft & tip tenons. The blk G10 may be a better way to go....but I see zero advantage in using it over blk phenolic.;)
Click to expand...

Just a side note, plastics are inherently vulnerable to UV light. The lighter the color the faster the breakdown will occur. I'd suspect on that alone the black will hold up much longer than the "clear" in a ferrule application.

And it looks weird to me, but you have to try everything once right?
 
I made a one pc ferrule/tenon

for a break cue. It worked ok, but no better than any cotton phenolic with maple tenon I have used. By making the tenon part of the ferrule you will not see any wood stub through the translucent G-10. I also tried a layered tip on it and used it with a playing cue, but did not like the feedback or english I got out of it.
 
mrinsatiable said:
I'm thinking of using it for a handle. G-10 is lighter and stronger than phenolic.
Click to expand...
G-10 is a phenolic.

{edit: I'm wrong here. G-10 is a glass-based epoxy combo with no phenolic}

Fred
 
Last edited:
James said:
Just a side note, plastics are inherently vulnerable to UV light. The lighter the color the faster the breakdown will occur.
Click to expand...
Really? I can see a dark thermoplastic having issues. UV scattering could melt certain thermoplastic at room temperatures, especially amorphous material. But, I would think that a transluscent thermoset like G10 would be pretty low on the UV vulnerability scale. And it's not like someone is going to sit there and keep their cue in the sunlit window.

Fred <~~~ knows that all things degrade with UV
 
man that stuff looks cool. It looks really old tymey. It also looks kinda like the same stuff that the budda statues in chinese restaurants are made of
 
DaveK said:
Hmmm, I thought it was a glass reinforced epoxy material.

Dave
Click to expand...
See my edit (which I was putting up while you were responding aparently).

A lot of people call it G-10 glass phenolic. I always have!! But, as you point out, it's not phenolic; it's an epoxy composite.

Fred
 
Cornerman said:
See my edit (which I was putting up while you were responding aparently).

A lot of people call it G-10 glass phenolic. I always have!! But, as you point out, it's not phenolic; it's an epoxy composite.

Fred
Click to expand...

I've spent too much time in electronics where the stuff is better known as FR-4 (which uses an "electrical grade" epoxy) ... it's PCB material.

Dave
 
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