G10 pin pros/cons?
- Thread starter gergs
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I have always felt that the only reason to have a pin was so that the cue could be dismantled so as to be easier to transport. I use radial pins as their center barrel made it so easy to insure that they are perfectly centered in the cues forearm. This has since changed as many pins now have a barrel but never the less the radial pin is what I have adopted and built my construction system around.
Now we talk about G-10 material for pins. I normally use a brass radial pin at 1.4 oz. per pin. If the cue needs to have the balance moved farther to the rear or if the cue is to heavy I switch to a G-10 pin that weighs .4 oz. so as to have an ounce difference to play with. As far as the pin making a difference in playability, well, I just can't say. Some say they can tell a difference but I've never had anyone who could tell me what kind of pin was in use unless I told them.
Dick
It is my belief that the difference between pins, both size and material wise, exists mostly between the ears.
I agree with Dick and Murray except for one flaw with G10 I have noticed is that I can never get the cue tight. There's always flex once the shaft is tightened down to the butt. It's tough to explain, but there's always an extra little bit of turn I can get once tight, then it twists back when I let go. For that reason, I have only used G10 a few times. My pin is 3/8-10, and a Radial has a bit more meat in even though it's also 3/8 major, so it may not have that extra bit of flex. Otherwise, I have not seen any issues with G10.
Just in my opinion. I have used them a few times. As far as hitting better see Eric, Dick, and Murry's posts.
Pros...
* It's almost weightless (aids in balancing a nose heavy cue)
* Very strong tesile strength
* stretches when tightening shaft
Cons...
* it's very abrasive
* kills your carbide tooling (if you make your own)
* wears your maple shaft threads over time
* Has very low side impact stregth
* if you don't like it, it will have to drilled out
* I've had the shaft come loose as well Eric.
Pros...
* It's almost weightless (aids in balancing a nose heavy cue)
* Very strong tesile strength
* stretches when tightening shaft
Cons...
* it's very abrasive
* kills your carbide tooling (if you make your own)
* wears your maple shaft threads over time
* Has very low side impact stregth
* if you don't like it, it will have to drilled out
* I've had the shaft come loose as well Eric.
Same feeling here.
Somehow it just hits better.
I will have to charge a little more for it b/c I'm going to use a Juma insert on all shafts for all G10 pins. That way the threads last a lot longer.
A thin CA on top of linseed oil should smoothen that G10 a little.
Imo they are great for A-joint stud as well. Glues extremely well and has a lot less chance of buzzing like metal.
pros: seems to give the cue a crisper hit. My theory is that, due to the significantly reduced weight in the middle of the cue, the cue resonates at a higher frequency along its length...much closer to the frequency that solid pieces of wood would resonate. Of course, this isn't scientific, but my 3/8x10 g10 pinned cue hits much crisper than a very similar cue with a 3/8x10 SS pin.
cons: I worry that the g10 pin's abrasive surface is sanding down the threads in the shaft. I've had the cue for 3 months, and the shaft threads on noticeably looser than when I first got the cue. Will this cause a problem in the long term? Who knows? Maybe the g10 pin could be finished/polished so that it's not so abrasive?
I think my next cue will have an aluminum pin (or maybe even a wood pin). Hopefully, to get the benefits of the lightweight pin w/o the sandpaper action of the g10.
cons: I worry that the g10 pin's abrasive surface is sanding down the threads in the shaft. I've had the cue for 3 months, and the shaft threads on noticeably looser than when I first got the cue. Will this cause a problem in the long term? Who knows? Maybe the g10 pin could be finished/polished so that it's not so abrasive?
I think my next cue will have an aluminum pin (or maybe even a wood pin). Hopefully, to get the benefits of the lightweight pin w/o the sandpaper action of the g10.
Hi,
As far as the "con" is concerned and since you asked, I don't like the way they look. I figure if I am turned off by their look, maybe others are too.
I have owned a large pool hall for almost 10 years and I notice a lot of things concerning pool cues as I think I a a fair observer of things in general. One thing I have noticed about G 10 pins on cues is that user of cues with these pins are constantly checking the tightness of the facing or re tightening between shots.
JMO,
Rick
As far as the "con" is concerned and since you asked, I don't like the way they look. I figure if I am turned off by their look, maybe others are too.
I have owned a large pool hall for almost 10 years and I notice a lot of things concerning pool cues as I think I a a fair observer of things in general. One thing I have noticed about G 10 pins on cues is that user of cues with these pins are constantly checking the tightness of the facing or re tightening between shots.
JMO,
Rick
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I haven't noticed any difference in hit by using G10 or titanium or aluminum or brass or stainless. I think the only way to tell would be pulling out a titanium or aluminum pin & replacing with a G10, and comparing that way. Otherwise, without the direct comparative experiment, i'd feel it just speculation to say yay or nay.
I buy my pins from Tommy, who makes them custom for me, as he does many of us. He explained the abrasive properties of G10 & that was enough already to steer clear of them for me. The way they twisted & flexed was the other negative. It's interesting how some choose it exactly for the flex reasons that others deny it. I really don't think there's a wrong or right. Joey has a pretty good approach to negating it's abrasiveness. But then again, I have seen Cogs that are a decade old or older & still smooth fitting as can be.
I buy my pins from Tommy, who makes them custom for me, as he does many of us. He explained the abrasive properties of G10 & that was enough already to steer clear of them for me. The way they twisted & flexed was the other negative. It's interesting how some choose it exactly for the flex reasons that others deny it. I really don't think there's a wrong or right. Joey has a pretty good approach to negating it's abrasiveness. But then again, I have seen Cogs that are a decade old or older & still smooth fitting as can be.
Do you have G10 in all thread form? I have only seen pins with the locating barrel. I woudn't think that would work at the a-joint.
Thanks,
Eric
I would say phenolic would be even better, but then again, i'm not a big juma fan. I find it to be too soft for my taste.
I don't like phenolic as an insert. It is abrasive also and just like you shouldn't use two of the same materials when the two parts are often loosen and tightened. It is for this reason that brass inserts are usually matched to a stainless pin, to stop galling.
Dick
Good point. I haven't noticed any similarities between G10, and phenolic. My cutter tells me they're as different as brass, and steel. I guess phenolic could be called abrasive, but not even in the same ball park as G10, more like in the way some woods could be called abrasive. I polish the pin with a fine grit scotch brite pad, and cyno the shaft threads.
I have a g10 pin in my jump handle. I use it with the big boy jump/break shaft. At one point my shaft was extremely hard to screw on and literally took someone else to help me unscrew it. At SBE I was going to bring back to McDermott to see if they could replace or at least open up the thread. Before going to the booth I had just gotten my jump butt made and wanted to screw it onto the shaft. With the g10 pin being as abrasive as it is, it open up the threads in the shaft where I could even see the shedding coming off from inside. Shaft now comes off/on with ease. Being my jump cue, I'm not concerned with the wear/tear of it anytime soon. But I'm a bit afraid of using one on a playing cue b/c I'm sure eventually it'll loosen the threads to the point of having to tighten it constantly while at play. Shafts cost way too much to have to worry about getting a new one every other year.
Never used the G10 but have both a Uniloc and 3/8x10 minor (in G10) in my hand now and was just wondering-to reduce any potential wear on the shaft- could these not be treated with some wax/CA(as mentioned by others)/finnishing oil for wood and pollished to make them better?
I like the looks and it makes a cue different...
K
I like the looks and it makes a cue different...
K