g4003g 12x36 lathe

Just use a dial indicator with the spider on the rear of the spindle on a collet...

Adjust the spider bolts on a collet until the butt is running true, then do it at the front of the chuck.

Also, it's not necessary to run the full length of the cue with the steady rest for it to be accurate. Again, use the steady rest about six to eight inches in front of the chuck and use a dial indicator to adjust the steady rest and you're good to go.

It IS nice though to have a rear chuck. Something I am planning on doing in the near future.

Jaden

Yes, I never used the steady rest either. This is a chuck that holds 4 different collets. Allows you to put the cue in any position basically with great accuracy as fast as you can physically can put the cue in the lathe. Its the same fixture Mike still uses today.
 
Just use a dial indicator with the spider on the rear of the spindle on a collet...

Adjust the spider bolts on a collet until the butt is running true, then do it at the front of the chuck.

Also, it's not necessary to run the full length of the cue with the steady rest for it to be accurate. Again, use the steady rest about six to eight inches in front of the chuck and use a dial indicator to adjust the steady rest and you're good to go.

It IS nice though to have a rear chuck. Something I am planning on doing in the near future.

Jaden
Get a 4-jaw taig chuck instead. Make a custom sleeve for it with 8 indexed set screws.
Dial in a 30" cnc rod/shaft.
The taig aluminum 4-jaw works really well for us. The jaws don't ding wood unless you really crank up on them .
 
that's exactly what I was planning on doing..

Get a 4-jaw taig chuck instead. Make a custom sleeve for it with 8 indexed set screws.
Dial in a 30" cnc rod/shaft.
The taig aluminum 4-jaw works really well for us. The jaws don't ding wood unless you really crank up on them .

That's exactly what I was planning on doing... :grin-square:

Jaden
 
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