gambling weight

nick55

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
can someone give me some help or point me in the direction of a good place to understand spots a little better. i dont play league and when i play for cash i'm not too good at figuring out a fair spot. for example in a 9 ball race to 5 a guy spotted me one on the wire and i lost a few races but he didnt want to spot another game (i dont blame him) since a few times it could have gone either way but i missed or scratched at bad times. anyway i wanted to know how spotting another money ball fits in and if there is some sort of scale for spots. ie whats the next logical step from here, would asking for the 8 ball be asking for more or less spot than another game? should i ask for a longer or shorter race with more/less games spotted? also the same question applies for 8 ball spots.

thanks,
nick<---new to gambling in pool
 
In the situation you describe where "it could have gone either way" had you made the game ball, or not scratched etc, the spot was correct. Say your opponent was playing his best, and had you been playing YOUR best the sets would have been at almost 50-50. I dont blame him for not wanting to give more games.
You do have to perform well to win.
If he consistantly beats you 5-4 (1 of your games being spotted) with both of you playing your top speed, then you would need 2 games to make it an even match.
Ball spots require alot of information to figure out accurately, and depending on the players involved.... ball spots could be completely meaningless. Games in a race are a better handicapping method IMO.
Chuck
 
thanks for the reply. like i said there were key shots that could have gone either way but i dont think it was as close as it should have been. the sets where he gave me a game were still 5-3 and a few of the games could have gone either way. i know you have to play well to win and i dont mind losing a little money but i dont want to just give it away and not win a set.

maybe ask for a different set? should i try to play a longer or shorter set, assuming the weight is adjusted accordingly
 
RiverCity said:
In the situation you describe where "it could have gone either way" had you made the game ball, or not scratched etc, the spot was correct. Say your opponent was playing his best, and had you been playing YOUR best the sets would have been at almost 50-50. I dont blame him for not wanting to give more games.
You do have to perform well to win.
If he consistantly beats you 5-4 (1 of your games being spotted) with both of you playing your top speed, then you would need 2 games to make it an even match.
Ball spots require alot of information to figure out accurately, and depending on the players involved.... ball spots could be completely meaningless. Games in a race are a better handicapping method IMO.
Chuck

One of my sparring buddies the other night told me he wouldn't be able to give me any ball spots if my safety game continued to improve. He's a way better player than I am, but with the spot he's been giving me the last few times, I've won. The matches were very tough, BTW, and he's a runout player. Strong safes when one or two balls away from the money ball can be killers.

Flex
 
RiverCity said:
In the situation you describe where "it could have gone either way" had you made the game ball, or not scratched etc, the spot was correct. Say your opponent was playing his best, and had you been playing YOUR best the sets would have been at almost 50-50. I dont blame him for not wanting to give more games.
You do have to perform well to win.
If he consistantly beats you 5-4 (1 of your games being spotted) with both of you playing your top speed, then you would need 2 games to make it an even match.
Ball spots require alot of information to figure out accurately, and depending on the players involved.... ball spots could be completely meaningless. Games in a race are a better handicapping method IMO.
Chuck
the spot ball may or may not show, paticularly in short races. the game or games on the wire are always there.
 
androd said:
the spot ball may or may not show, paticularly in short races. the game or games on the wire are always there.

My sparring buddy at times has given me the breaks, and 357 Magnum... the wild 3, 5, and 7.

He won't give me that anymore.:D

He gives me way less in terms of balls, but I still get two of them, which don't count on the break, and it's winner breaks.

Nevertheless, in races to 7, not particularly short IMHO (race to 3 is really short) having two extra balls on the table, and they aren't consecutive, puts psychological strain on him basically throughout the race, which giving me a game or two or even three doesn't really do.

That psychological strain can really wear an opponent down.

That's a factor that should also be taken into consideration, IMHO.

Flex
 
someone needs to come up with a chart detailing spots in order. Cause this question comes up every three or four months.


And as for the original question. Ask him for the breaks. It sounds like your matched up good, but if he agrees to the breaks itll help u out a lot. And its less weight than the 8 ball or another game on the wire.
 
maybe i'll ask for a game and the breaks next time. good idea, thanks. i agree a chart would be great
 
TXsouthpaw said:
someone needs to come up with a chart detailing spots in order. Cause this question comes up every three or four months.


And as for the original question. Ask him for the breaks. It sounds like your matched up good, but if he agrees to the breaks itll help u out a lot. And its less weight than the 8 ball or another game on the wire.
I believe someone did have a chart of some sort that pretty well showed an order of the handicaps. It was on this forum not too long ago. I don't have time to find it right now. Maybe someone else could do a search.
 
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