Game situation - What would you do?

Snapshot9

Snapshot9

son of 3 leg 1 eye dog ..
Silver Member
Had this game situation hil to hill set.

Arrows indicate intended path of cue,
but cue drew back down the rail to
scratch in foot pocket opposite of
where 3 went.

Upper left would have left cue up table
on the 4. (hit long rail up from 4)

In real life, 1 rail draw to opposite side
(to where 4 was was not an option).
That is why I decided to make sure
I shot it straight past the 7, throw the
cue ball against the long rail with lots
of low right, and follow the arrows path.
(I set it up and shot it a second time
after my opponent ran out from the
scratch, and of course, it went exactly
the way I wanted it to go the first time.
Isn't that always the case.... lol)

START(
%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO9F5%VR0F9
%_r7O3%`U2C8%aO2E5%b]3V0%cg9[6%ds3O9
)END


(you have to copy from start thru end, and then use RSB table
one is at http://prostimo.com )

What would you have done?
 
Last edited:
this wei tables always distort the angle somewhat........


why not just play safe and freeze the cue on the 7 ball?

VAP
 
I do not see why you went to the bottom rail. You could have just used low bottom right to draw back on the right rail to make it to the opposite side rail.

Am I missing something here?

Barbara
 
Snapshot9 said:
Had this game situation hil to hill set.

Arrows indicate intended path of cue,
but cue drew back down the rail to
scratch in foot pocket opposite of
where 3 went.

Upper left would have left cue up table
on the 4. (hit long rail up from 4)

In real life, 1 rail draw to opposite side
(to where 4 was was not an option).
That is why I decided to make sure
I shot it straight past the 7, throw the
cue ball against the long rail with lots
of low right, and follow the arrows path.
(I set it up and shot it a second time
after my opponent ran out from the
scratch, and of course, it went exactly
the way I wanted it to go the first time.
Isn't that always the case.... lol)

START(
%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO9F5%VR0F9
%_r7O3%`U2C8%aO2E5%b]3V0%cg9[6%ds3O9
)END


(you have to copy from start thru end, and then use RSB table
one is at http://prostimo.com )

What would you have done?
Click to expand...

Bar table I would have done the same way you did, but a big table I would have just played draw one rail back to the middle of the table.

Not really sure why, but I like your shot on the bar table and I have played it that way several times.

Cheers,
Regas
 
Snapshot9 said:
Had this game situation hil to hill set.

Arrows indicate intended path of cue,
but cue drew back down the rail to
scratch in foot pocket opposite of
where 3 went.

Upper left would have left cue up table
on the 4. (hit long rail up from 4)

In real life, 1 rail draw to opposite side
(to where 4 was was not an option).
That is why I decided to make sure
I shot it straight past the 7, throw the
cue ball against the long rail with lots
of low right, and follow the arrows path.
(I set it up and shot it a second time
after my opponent ran out from the
scratch, and of course, it went exactly
the way I wanted it to go the first time.
Isn't that always the case.... lol)

START(
%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO9F5%VR0F9
%_r7O3%`U2C8%aO2E5%b]3V0%cg9[6%ds3O9
)END


(you have to copy from start thru end, and then use RSB table
one is at http://prostimo.com )

What would you have done?
Click to expand...


The underlying problem with the approach you take is that if you hit it exactly the way you intend, you're likely going to end up straight on the 4 which will leave you another big-stroke shot. Much depends on the equipment you're playing on, specifically, how much bounce you get off that rail. If that 7 isn't blocking the outside portion of the pocket (which it looks like it is), I'm stunning out to middle table. That way, I got an ideal angle on the 4 and it's Mickey Mouse from there.

If you're super-straight and run a risk of staying on the rail, your other option is to cross-over the 3-ball and bank it in the lower-left corner pocket. Play it for an over-cut and you'll likely leave that ball along the foot-rail and that cue-ball up table with plenty of blockers. Make the ball and you should be in decent shape.

Your shot is nice for theatrics but you're stretched out (lefty or righty) which means you're not going to hit this as accurately as you can in a normal stance. It all adds up to a high-risk shot with mediocre reward, You obviously have a very good stroke if you can move the cue-ball like that but you're letting your absolute best stroke dictate your shot-selection. Normally, I'm not a big advocate of safing or two-ways when running-out is available but this is definitely a circumstance that I would consider putting my pride aside and playing it smart. The option mentioned above, hiding the cue-ball behind the 7 is an excellent play. The key to that safe is to make sure the cue-ball ends up frozen to the 7 on the inside (not just on top). That way, you take away a 1-rail kick at a ball hanging near the corner pocket and force him to take a short-route to the ball with little chance of finding a pocket.


Just my two cents worth. Nice stroke nonetheless.
 
either take the long shot on the four after making the three... or pushing the three down to the far rail and try to leave the cueball behind the seven
 
If there's enough angle to get off the cushion and past the 8 ball as diagrammed then there is enough angle to simple power stun with a touch of right english off the rail to just past the center of the table for good position.

You can more safely hit the ball with the power required with a closer to centre ball strike.

If the 3 is on, I will never play a saftey here.
 
Here's the diagram of that shot:

START(%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO9F4%VR0F9
%WO1D5%XN8E8%Y[1Q2%ZO4C8%eB9a5)END
 
START(
%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%Pe3J7%WT6W9%Xd4K3%YM7V2
%ZT5[3%[D3[0%\Q7X7%]Z8D4%^T6N6
)END
 
Hal said:
START(
%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%Pe3J7%WT6W9%Xd4K3%YM7V2
%ZT5[3%[D3[0%\Q7X7%]Z8D4%^T6N6
)END
Click to expand...

Sry Hal, it doesn't appear the 5 is in play for the side. Position on the corner seems necessary. Colin is correct, if offense is the way to go. You need center-table position to get out. However, I seriously doubt any of these routes are feasible since all require a massive stretch.
 
Jude wrote: "However, I seriously doubt any of these routes are feasible since all require a massive stretch."

But it's a 7' table right? ;)

Anyway, I could throw my cue at the ball and make that shot...left handed....in the dark :p
 
Snapshot9 said:
Had this game situation hil to hill set.

Arrows indicate intended path of cue,
but cue drew back down the rail to
scratch in foot pocket opposite of
where 3 went.

Upper left would have left cue up table
on the 4. (hit long rail up from 4)

In real life, 1 rail draw to opposite side
(to where 4 was was not an option).
That is why I decided to make sure
I shot it straight past the 7, throw the
cue ball against the long rail with lots
of low right, and follow the arrows path.
(I set it up and shot it a second time
after my opponent ran out from the
scratch, and of course, it went exactly
the way I wanted it to go the first time.
Isn't that always the case.... lol)

START(
%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO9F5%VR0F9
%_r7O3%`U2C8%aO2E5%b]3V0%cg9[6%ds3O9
)END


(you have to copy from start thru end, and then use RSB table
one is at http://prostimo.com )

What would you have done?
Click to expand...

Scott, the diagram makes it hard to tell exactly how the shot lies, but if the cueball and 3 ball are nearly straight in with a very slight angle, the correct shot is to use bottom left and draw it straight back to the end rail, and there will be reverse english on the cueball after striking the rail so it will pop out in the center of the table. Drawing this shot with low inside the cueball will draw back from the three as if you were aiming straight at it into the side rail right before the pocket. Alot of people don't know this shot and it is not hard to execute when the balls are close together. Here is the shot:

START(
%CN0E7%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PS3G0%UO5F2%VR2F9
%Wr4Q3%XT0G4%Ya9R7%Zr7R1%[D4C9%\M1E6%eA8b3
)END

This is the correct way to get position, provided you can reach over the table well enough to stroke the shot.

*IF* there was slightly more angle on the shot, the way you shot it was the right way. Judging by the layout on the WEI table, the three is just slightly off angle from being straight in, so punching it to the rail with bottom right harder than drawing it straight back with inside draw. Neither of these shots are really big stroke shots, unless you are playing on really slow cloth. Try my shot, you will see what I mean about how easy it is.
 
vapoolplayer said:
this wei tables always distort the angle somewhat........


why not just play safe and freeze the cue on the 7 ball?

VAP
Click to expand...

That would be an option, but it might not be effective- the 3 is going to be near a pocket. The best defense is good offense!
 
Colin Colenso said:
Jude wrote: "However, I seriously doubt any of these routes are feasible since all require a massive stretch."

But it's a 7' table right? ;)

Anyway, I could throw my cue at the ball and make that shot...left handed....in the dark :p
Click to expand...


No mention of a 7-footer. This shot is begging for trouble. You guys are in virtual world right now. Put a thousand in the light and you're gonna be exploring other options.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
No mention of a 7-footer. This shot is begging for trouble. You guys are in virtual world right now. Put a thousand in the light and you're gonna be exploring other options.
Click to expand...

Like I said, if you can reach the shot comfortably enough, the shot I diagrammed is fairly simple. And with $1000 on the light I would love to have this shot instead of being in jail or my opponent running out :rolleyes:
 
Also, I believe Scott put the 7-there to emphasize that you cannot cheat the pocket to the left to give you enough angle to punch to the center of the table.

This all comes down to whether the person shooting can reach the shot or not. If the cueball is further back a little, the shot cake. If the 7 is blocking half the pocket, then this shot is SUICIDE.
 
How about this if you don't rely on your power stroke, just one more option. First, shoot the 3-ball in with a stop shot. Then bank the 4-ball softly into the middle and leaving the 5-ball in the same middle pocket (yes, there's a lots of room to play 5 in the side according to the original diagram). If you miss the 4-ball, you most likely leave it behind 5 and/or the 9-ball.

START(
%CB5B8%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PN1E9%UR5W5%VN1F5
%WS8Z7%XS2Y5%YP8Z7%ZR1X2%[X4M8%\T1[3%]N2X7%^O9[4%eB4`7
)END

Nothing spectacular, just soft shots required.
 
LastTwo said:
Also, I believe Scott put the 7-there to emphasize that you cannot cheat the pocket to the left to give you enough angle to punch to the center of the table.
Click to expand...

But the angle he drew his cueball passing the 8 ball prooves there is enough angle to punch across to the center.

If he drew the path to the inside of the 8 ball, it would indicate that the shot may be too straight for the power stun across.

In that case I would hit the shot in as straight as possible with low draw and left to come down and up the table taking the side cushion out of the equation.

There is an angle zone where both of these shots options are available for the same angle.

I will assume there is a bit of play in the pocket.

I would definitely prefer the power stun, especially if stretching. But I can hit balls quite straight with power...some guys cannot. (Not to brag, just to explain one reason for my preference).
 
Last edited:
mjantti said:
How about this if you don't rely on your power stroke, just one more option. First, shoot the 3-ball in with a stop shot. Then bank the 4-ball softly into the middle and leaving the 5-ball in the same middle pocket (yes, there's a lots of room to play 5 in the side according to the original diagram). If you miss the 4-ball, you most likely leave it behind 5 and/or the 9-ball.

START(
%CB5B8%DR9X6%ES9O7%Fl7Z8%GI3F0%Hk8I6%IT3Q7%PN1E9%UR5W5%VN1F5
%WS8Z7%XS2Y5%YP8Z7%ZR1X2%[X4M8%\T1[3%]N2X7%^O9[4%eB4`7
)END

Nothing spectacular, just soft shots required.
Click to expand...

I agree with you...soft roll the 3 and then bank the 4 back in the side. Course I am a banker anyway ;).

Shorty
 
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