GC 1 questions

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I really appreciate the information, Glenn. And, the next time I tear dow for a recloth I'll do exactly as you instructed. However, it has nothing to do with my question regarding the ball box.

This is what a normal GC1 ball tray looks like when I get them. You an see where the space blocks are that sit between the back of the ball tray and the frame of the table.
 

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Last edited:

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Now you can see the 2 blocks after I rebuilt the ball tray.
 

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jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Very nice work, Glenn. Do you have any pics of the ball return drop box?
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just took mine apart today, the drop box and ball storage box. The table had been "restored" about five years ago (and I use the term loosely). A lot of the original hardware, screws, etc., is missing or replaced with the wrong stuff. I found that the ball storage box, which is supposed to be attached with six #10x2 3/4" flat head wood screws was held in by only two screws: #12x2-3/4", the vertical ones that go into the frame. The four that go diagonally up into the bottom of the rail were missing. Once out, I saw that the rail never had those screws in it - no holes!

I'm planning on fixing some splits in the wood, sanding and filling the imperfections, and repainting with the correct white paint, for a smooth, glossy finish. Then, I'll put it all back together with the correct hardware.

In addition, I'm going to make a cork-cushioned bottom for the inside of the ball return drop box, covered with cloth that matches the table cloth. Anyone have a rather large scrap of gray SImonis 860? :)

jv

p.s. what color is the background of the "B" on the ball storage trim piece supposed to be?
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I don't use wood screws to mount the ball try to the frame, or to the bottom of the rail. I use the same aluminum used to mount the skirts, to mount the ball tray. To mount the ball tray, I convert it over to machine screws and threaded inserts.
 

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pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't use wood screws to mount the ball try to the frame, or to the bottom of the rail. I use the same aluminum used to mount the skirts, to mount the ball tray. To mount the ball tray, I convert it over to machine screws and threaded inserts.

I like this a lot, imma copy this on my GC 1 parts kit. RKC can you share the size of the screws and inserts? Genius I say, pure genius. Well at a minimum it’s a good idea.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I like this a lot, imma copy this on my GC 1 parts kit. RKC can you share the size of the screws and inserts? Genius I say, pure genius. Well at a minimum it’s a good idea.

1/4" × 20 × 2" machine screws and matching threaded inserts.
 

pogmothoin

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Brilliant! I like the machine screws! A great improvement on the original design.

When I got my GC1 is was one owner table that was in a basement. Many of the bolts and screws were a little rusty. I used a vibratory case cleaner used for cleaning shell casings when reloading ammo to remove the rust so I could retain the original hardware.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I like this a lot, imma copy this on my GC 1 parts kit. RKC can you share the size of the screws and inserts? Genius I say, pure genius. Well at a minimum it’s a good idea.

Steve will do this as part of our install.
 

MesdupBoogie

Registered
Brilliant! I like the machine screws! A great improvement on the original design.

When I got my GC1 is was one owner table that was in a basement. Many of the bolts and screws were a little rusty. I used a vibratory case cleaner used for cleaning shell casings when reloading ammo to remove the rust so I could retain the original hardware.

I’ll try to throw my GC1 hardware into the tumbler this week with some fine corn cob media. An ultrasonic cleaner with mineral spirits and scrubbing with copper brush didn’t really get the results I wanted.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’ll try to throw my GC1 hardware into the tumbler this week with some fine corn cob media. An ultrasonic cleaner with mineral spirits and scrubbing with copper brush didn’t really get the results I wanted.
I must confess that I find that the old hardware, the slotted-head woodscrews, the light brownish rust finish, possess something of a charm. As much as I see the appeal of RKC's modification, I fail to realize the utility of it; the wood screws work just fine. I wish all of the hardware on my table was original. I had to replace some screws, and the only ones readily available are plated - zinc chromate, I guess. Plain steel screws, or black-finished, are hard to find. Polishing off the oxide in a tumbler isn' a good idea, in my opinion, the rust is actually, in this case, probably a protective coating.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I must confess that I find that the old hardware, the slotted-head woodscrews, the light brownish rust finish, possess something of a charm. As much as I see the appeal of RKC's modification, I fail to realize the utility of it; the wood screws work just fine. I wish all of the hardware on my table was original. I had to replace some screws, and the only ones readily available are plated - zinc chromate, I guess. Plain steel screws, or black-finished, are hard to find. Polishing off the oxide in a tumbler isn' a good idea, in my opinion, the rust is actually, in this case, probably a protective coating.

There's no value in the hardware for a GC1, and rust is just that, rust. It's never been used as a protective finish...LOL

When you start seeing all the foot rails I've seen from screwing the ball tray to the bottom of the rail, and the damage its caused, or all the different screw holes in the frame to mount the ball tray.....you'd change your mind in a hurry!
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
rust is just that, rust. It's never been used as a protective finish...LOL
Blue and brown finishes on steel are an oxide conversion coating that, with a little oil, prevents further rusting. That's what I was referring to. But even just plain surface-rusted steel screws are much more esthetically pleasing to me than zinc-chromate coated hardware, and replacing wood screws with threaded inserts and machine screws. Not saying it's bad, just not my preference.


When you start seeing all the foot rails I've seen from screwing the ball tray to the bottom of the rail, and the damage its caused, or all the different screw holes in the frame to mount the ball tray.....you'd change your mind in a hurry!
I can imagine that, yes, but mine has very few screw holes - none in the foot rail for the ball storage box, as I've noted before.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Blue and brown finishes on steel are an oxide conversion coating that, with a little oil, prevents further rusting. That's what I was referring to. But even just plain surface-rusted steel screws are much more esthetically pleasing to me than zinc-chromate coated hardware, and replacing wood screws with threaded inserts and machine screws. Not saying it's bad, just not my preference.



I can imagine that, yes, but mine has very few screw holes - none in the foot rail for the ball storage box, as I've noted before.

Then you have a newer model of the GC1. But to keep it all original, you should reinstall the original cloth as well, wouldn't you think?
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Blue and brown finishes on steel are an oxide conversion coating that, with a little oil, prevents further rusting. That's what I was referring to. But even just plain surface-rusted steel screws are much more esthetically pleasing to me than zinc-chromate coated hardware, and replacing wood screws with threaded inserts and machine screws. Not saying it's bad, just not my preference.



I can imagine that, yes, but mine has very few screw holes - none in the foot rail for the ball storage box, as I've noted before.

Why not use stainless screws, thats what I did on mine. I believe the original flat head screws are scrap, why would anyone use a flat head screw?? They are so much more difficult to work with.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why not use stainless screws, thats what I did on mine. I believe the original flat head screws are scrap, why would anyone use a flat head screw?? They are so much more difficult to work with.

I kinda like the flat head screws. It may sound silly, but I prefer the aesthetics of them, and with a properly fitting screwdriver they work fine, and not so much axial pressure is needed. Most people don't have the right size screwdriver for these. I have the luxury of a huge number of inherited tools, and the ability to grind a custom one when needed.
 
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