Gc 3

fastone371 said:
I had a problem using the Simonis DVD. They tell you how much slack to leave for the side pockets, something like 13/16" on the glue down side and 11/16" on the stretch side, do not quote me on that, I don't remember exact numbers the DVD supplied but I watched the DVD at least 4 times and took notes. It also said a little less for antique tables but as I recall it did not say how much, I did not give it much thought because I did not think my GCII was an antique table. As it turns out I should have used the "a little less" figure because my felt is a little loose in the side pocket area. You can not see it but you can feel the felt move in the side pocket area sometimes if you slide your bridge hand there. Oh well, another lesson learned, if I can find someone in my area to recover the bed I will have that done, but that was the whole reason I did it myself, I could not find anyone in my area that I really trusted to do it right.
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In order to ballance the stretch out in the side pockets, you must stretch the cloth lenghtwise from the side pockets to the corner pockets tight. The tighter you stretch it to the corner pockets, the more it pulls the slack out and away from the side pockets, yet leaving you just enough slack to finish off the side pockets without coming up short. So, in other words, when stretching across the slate to the corner pocket you also pull hard away from the side pocket at the same time, and you have to know what your stretch index is. To tight side to side means you won't be able to pull and move as much cloth end to end, to loose side to side and you'll pull all the slack out of the side pocket and won't have enough slack to finish it off. When I install Simonis 860HR or the 860, my side to side stretch is 1.75 inches side to side, the rest of the tightening of the cloth comes when it's stretched end to end on the sides of the slate away from the side pockets.;)
 
fastone371 said:
I had a problem using the Simonis DVD. They tell you how much slack to leave for the side pockets, something like 13/16" on the glue down side and 11/16" on the stretch side, do not quote me on that, I don't remember exact numbers the DVD supplied but I watched the DVD at least 4 times and took notes. It also said a little less for antique tables but as I recall it did not say how much, I did not give it much thought because I did not think my GCII was an antique table. As it turns out I should have used the "a little less" figure because my felt is a little loose in the side pocket area. You can not see it but you can feel the felt move in the side pocket area sometimes if you slide your bridge hand there. Oh well, another lesson learned, if I can find someone in my area to recover the bed I will have that done, but that was the whole reason I did it myself, I could not find anyone in my area that I really trusted to do it right.
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I had the same problem using the exact measurements given in the DVD on a GC3 the first time. Just couldn't pull the cloth tight next to the side pocket on the stretch side. I ended up unstapling the cloth next to the side pockets and pulling it toward the ends a little to get all the slack out. The next time I did it on a similar pocket cutout I adjusted with less slack on the stretch side, side pocket. The DVDs have some other issues on the rail covering disc too here and there but pretty good information over all especially for a first time DIYer like the OP in this thread.

JC
 
So as I've done some research already and what not, I still am getting input about cloth. I was originally gonna go with 760. However, I feel now I'm leaning towards 860HR.
 
JC said:
I had the same problem using the exact measurements given in the DVD on a GC3 the first time. Just couldn't pull the cloth tight next to the side pocket on the stretch side. I ended up unstapling the cloth next to the side pockets and pulling it toward the ends a little to get all the slack out. The next time I did it on a similar pocket cutout I adjusted with less slack on the stretch side, side pocket. The DVDs have some other issues on the rail covering disc too here and there but pretty good information over all especially for a first time DIYer like the OP in this thread.

JC
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I've used my method on 1,000's of pool tables, trained other mechanic's the same way...and have never had any issues with to much slack in the side pockets if installed correctly. I think the problem is new installers are afraid to pull the cloth "to tight" when stretching it from the side pockets to the corners first, before attaching the cloth between the side pocket and the corner pocket. Trust me, the cloth won't tear when stretching it...I don't care how strong a person is:rolleyes:
 
I was thinking the same thing when I read this thread. Probably not pulling tight enough from side pocket to corner pocket.
 
realkingcobra said:
I've used my method on 1,000's of pool tables, trained other mechanic's the same way...and have never had any issues with to much slack in the side pockets if installed correctly. I think the problem is new installers are afraid to pull the cloth "to tight" when stretching it from the side pockets to the corners first, before attaching the cloth between the side pocket and the corner pocket. Trust me, the cloth won't tear when stretching it...I don't care how strong a person is:rolleyes:
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I followed the DVD to the letter, I marked my 1 1/2" stretch index marks on all 3 sides of cloth (I think this info is correct, its been almost 6 months since I put cloth on and watched DVDs) and with very much effort I did get the cloth stretched to the index marks. I saw that I was having issues around the side pockets so I lifted 1 end of "glue down" side of the cloth to pull it tighter then I reglued and stapled the cloth down. My intention was to just glue it but after the reglue I did not trust the glue to hold on its own.
 
fastone371 said:
I followed the DVD to the letter, I marked my 1 1/2" stretch index marks on all 3 sides of cloth (I think this info is correct, its been almost 6 months since I put cloth on and watched DVDs) and with very much effort I did get the cloth stretched to the index marks. I saw that I was having issues around the side pockets so I lifted 1 end of "glue down" side of the cloth to pull it tighter then I reglued and stapled the cloth down. My intention was to just glue it but after the reglue I did not trust the glue to hold on its own.
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The stretch index is only used on the stretch to side, not on the ends. The ends are pulled to where they can't be pulled anymore...which is what takes away the extra slack in the side pockets....so, in other words...you didn't stretch it enough end to end. No where in the DVDs is it mentioned that there a stretch index mark for the ends of the slate pull/stretch;)
 
Hehehe you are hijacking my thread. Just kidding. I would however, like to hear everyone's opinions of 760, 860 and 860HR.
 
realkingcobra said:
The stretch index is only used on the stretch to side, not on the ends. The ends are pulled to where they can't be pulled anymore...which is what takes away the extra slack in the side pockets....so, in other words...you didn't stretch it enough end to end. No where in the DVDs is it mentioned that there a stretch index mark for the ends of the slate pull/stretch;)
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I think if I tried to pull it any tighter trying to get wrinkles out of side pockets I would have had to anchor table to the concrete. My cloth was cut very small, I only about 2" of unstretched overhang on all 4 sides so I had to use a pliers to stretch it (it was kinda like a canvas stretching pliers but bigger I think) Its water under the bridge now but a couple months ago you told me I should have used a smaller slack measurement on a Gold Crown. I was just trying to offer advice here on my own difficulties and why he should hire someone experienced to do the table.;)
 
SirFitzalot said:
Hehehe you are hijacking my thread. Just kidding. I would however, like to hear everyone's opinions of 760, 860 and 860HR.
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I used the regular 860, not the HR. When I have it recovered I think I will try the HR, that's what I was originally going to use but I let someone talk me out of it. I am very happy with the Simonis, but it is starting to show some burn marks in it and I break off of a pad to reduce this problem. It is also starting to show some wear around rack area too, but I am also kinda picky. If I had to guess there are around 1500 games on the cloth right now in 6 months, I am not sure how much wear the cloth should be showing at this point. What I can tell you is that there is much less wear showing on the Simonis than there was on the unknown cloth that came with the table, in 1 year time there were many wear marks on the cloth that were not on it when I bought it.
 
GLEN! Holy shit as it turns out, I've played on some of your work and didnt know it until the other day. A mutual friend of ours informed me that you do work on a guys diamond in Cortland. That's rather interesting actually.
 
fastone371 said:
I think if I tried to pull it any tighter trying to get wrinkles out of side pockets I would have had to anchor table to the concrete. My cloth was cut very small, I only about 2" of unstretched overhang on all 4 sides so I had to use a pliers to stretch it (it was kinda like a canvas stretching pliers but bigger I think) Its water under the bridge now but a couple months ago you told me I should have used a smaller slack measurement on a Gold Crown. I was just trying to offer advice here on my own difficulties and why he should hire someone experienced to do the table.;)
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GC1's and 2's have smaller side pocket cut outs in the slate than 3's and newer;)
 
SirFitzalot said:
GLEN! Holy shit as it turns out, I've played on some of your work and didnt know it until the other day. A mutual friend of ours informed me that you do work on a guys diamond in Cortland. That's rather interesting actually.
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I'm old so I kind of remember...upstairs table?

Go with the 860HR...to many reasons to explain here.
 
Nah guy's name is Dave Peacock. His diamond is in his garage but a very well maintained and perfectly heated/cooled area. And I totally plan to go with HR.
 
SirFitzalot said:
Nah guy's name is Dave Peacock. His diamond is in his garage but a very well maintained and perfectly heated/cooled area. And I totally plan to go with HR.
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Oh hell yeah, I remember David's Diamond, that table plays lights out...and level as hell, yep...you've playes on my work for sure...LOL
 
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