glue for coring
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Michael Webb said:
Don't thread them but I do cut a .010 deep score @ 8tpi the length of the dowel.
Although I do believe in the threading theory of securing cue parts together, threading cores in may be over kill? That debate could go on for a couple eons or even longer.
masonh said:
That's what I like about it.
BarenbruggeCues said:
That's why I missed you in chat, You is here. DUH
WheatCues
Banned
BarenbruggeCues said:
score line is essential to proper bleeding and possible hydraulic issues in my opinion... i just use the cutting tool already mounted on the post and run it horizontal and this seems to cut a nice relief groove all the way down the side of the plug.....
- Eddie Wheat
Michael Webb said:
Go there now..........
Thanks for the invite.BarenbruggeCues said:
Dungeon here we come.
Joey~Just came back from the grocery on foot~
I use t-88 too, for pretty much everything structural. I don't use 5 minute epoxies all that much, but when I do I use Quick Cure, (another epoxy that's made by System Three) Only thing i don't like is how messy the bottles get. It's like an epoxy volcano, only It happens slowly over time. I have to put paper plates under them or I'll have a mess a few months after the bottles are opened.
They are a thicker viscosity then most, and although I never need It for that, It may fill better then thin, but seems to me that even thicker viscosity epoxies can hold air pockets, and given the same circumstances as a thin, the thicker may even be more likely to do so. Air escapes much easier from thin epoxies then thicker from most of My observations. Still with that being said, I haven't had any problems using the T-88 for any structural purposes that I've used It on.
They are a thicker viscosity then most, and although I never need It for that, It may fill better then thin, but seems to me that even thicker viscosity epoxies can hold air pockets, and given the same circumstances as a thin, the thicker may even be more likely to do so. Air escapes much easier from thin epoxies then thicker from most of My observations. Still with that being said, I haven't had any problems using the T-88 for any structural purposes that I've used It on.
Even though I'm a 'nobody' in some people's opinion, (and that's okay with me,) and a beginner in building cues, If we really look at the issues, do the above mentioned glues do the job? The afore mentioned tests where nice but a cored cue doesn't fit the type of testing that was done. The tests were done putting pressure on the obviously weakest point of that type of joint, which was 1.5" -2" wide, not 12-13" like a core which is surrounded 360 degrees on the long axis, and open on the .75" openings 12-13" apart, total different type of joint than was tested. We're not building anything that requires 4000 psi ratings. I deal with stuff like this at work, where we're hanging heavy speaker clusters above people's heads, and were the stats on paper matter very much, but building cues isn't even close to that level of importance. I recently completed my personal breaker that I cored the ebony handle with maple, and used the Elmer's poly glue. I will put money on the fact that no one will be able to tell the difference between epoxy verses poly, nor be able to dislodge the core from the ebony. I understand that there are differences in opinions, but when taken into account that we're not supporting 3000 lb items that are carrying heavy loads etc, poly, epoxy, or even titebond glues will all work, it just comes down to preference, more than stats on a sheet of paper. Who has heard or seen a cored cue come apart due to wrong glue?no abuse? I'm not talking about hit, as that is totally subject to the individual. If all is done correctly, cored and the dowel machined properly, for the type glue being used, type of wood, etc. then all should be well. No offence to anyone meant, just my .5 cents.
Dave
Dave
Who has heard or seen a cored cue come apart due to wrong glue?no abuse? I'm not talking about hit, as that is totally subject to the individual. If all is done correctly, cored and the dowel machined properly, for the type glue being used, type of wood, etc. then all should be well. No offence to anyone meant, just my .5 cents.
Dave
I came across one that rattled.
A few that hit too soft.
Dave
I came across one that rattled.
A few that hit too soft.
i have come across plenty of buzzers over the years.i don't think anyone is saying it won't hold the pieces together.i just think there are better glues out there for cue building.the only benefit i see from poly glue would be cost.
would you use poly glue for an a-joint?
would you use poly glue for an a-joint?
First, I'm not trying to be the spokesperson for poly glue, they won't pay me for itmasonh said:
, just trying to point out that there are different ways to accomplish the goal. I wouldn't use it for an A joint, as expansion is the by product of that type of glue and is definatly a bad thing for that type of joint. being used in a core application, and all parts being made properly, the idea of some expansion is good, to fill all gaps, and adhere to the wood on both sides, and the wood is thick enough to withstand the forces of expansion until it has cured. An A joint wall thickness is way to thin for that, as even epoxy, if not used with proper glue relief, can cause the forearm to crack due to internal pressures. As for the buzzes, well there's a whole large azz can of worms as to the causes of that...
Dave
This debate is never going to die. It seems to pop up here every couple of months.
I use Gorilla Glue for mine. I've also put one in a vice and tried to dislodge the core with a hammer. There is no way that thing is going to move.
I also recently cut points into a cored forearm that was done with epoxy. I threw it out. There were gaps everywhere and when I applied the epoxy to glue the points in, the glue would ooze from one point to the other where the forearm met the core.
In my opinion, the epoxy made the weaker cored front.
I use Gorilla Glue for mine. I've also put one in a vice and tried to dislodge the core with a hammer. There is no way that thing is going to move.
I also recently cut points into a cored forearm that was done with epoxy. I threw it out. There were gaps everywhere and when I applied the epoxy to glue the points in, the glue would ooze from one point to the other where the forearm met the core.
In my opinion, the epoxy made the weaker cored front.
Soooo. What would have caused those gaps??
Craig Fales said:
That I can't tell you. I bought those fronts already cored due to a miscommunication when I was trying to buy some birds eye maple. I wasn't able to sell them, so I saved them to use for experiments.
I put small grooves in my cores about every 1/4 - 1/2 inch with a razor blade. The cores go in snug, but you don't have to force them. The Gorilla glue fills up the grooves and then will expand inside the forearm when it dries. I've cut them up all different ways and I cannot separate the core from the forarm no matter how I try. I have never had glue ooze into another point when I'm gluing them in.
I'm not sure if the core of the ones with the epoxy had grooves in it or not, I don't remember if I looked. I would imagine if it didn't, all the glue would get pushed out when you slid the cored through, leaving little to hold. Even if it did have grooves, you would still push a lot of the glue out and the epoxy doesn't expand like the gorilla glue.
I've seen all the posts saying the Gorilla Glue isn't as strong, but if I can't get the core to move with a hammer, I don't see how somebody using the cue as intended is going to damage it. Maybe it's not strong enough to lift an elephant, but it is going to take a lot for it to fail.
As important as the type of glue used.......the coring technique is also just as important if maybe not more important.
Just because a core fits snug...or just "right".... doesn't necessarily denote that there are not gaps or unwanted spaces along the two fitted pieces.
There is simply only one way that I know of to find out if your bonding/construction methods are sound. Glue one up...let dry...cut it into quarters length wise....inspect under magnification....either kick yourself or pat yourself on the back.
Just because a core fits snug...or just "right".... doesn't necessarily denote that there are not gaps or unwanted spaces along the two fitted pieces.
There is simply only one way that I know of to find out if your bonding/construction methods are sound. Glue one up...let dry...cut it into quarters length wise....inspect under magnification....either kick yourself or pat yourself on the back.
You're holding out.BarenbruggeCues said:
There's one solution to make sure glue/epoxy fills all the void/gap.
It doesn't involve the stove or bandsaw.
PS your box is full.
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