Glue side on tips?

deadendcruser

deadendcruser

Registered
A quick question....
Tips all have a "glue side" usually embossed with its logo or name. My question is does it really make a difference to use this side? If you must sand and prep before gluing, doesnt that usually make it almost the same surface as the "tip" side?
 
deadendcruser said:
A quick question....
Tips all have a "glue side" usually embossed with its logo or name. My question is does it really make a difference to use this side? If you must sand and prep before gluing, doesnt that usually make it almost the same surface as the "tip" side?
Click to expand...

First of all not all tips have a glue side written on them, but outside of that I have never given the subject much thought, I have just simply followed the manufacturers instructions.

JIMO
 
Obviously, the manufacturers of the tips feel that there is a difference.
Otherwise, why waste the time & ink to inform the installer which is the glue side.

I guess if you got the tip on backwards, it wouldn't be such a big deal.
I'd think leather wraps would be a different matter though.
 
Tip direction

This is solely my opinion. If a tip is stamped during manufacturing it will have a specific "grain" compressing the fibers in one direction. If you reverse this direction you will have a non performing tip or it will take quite a bit longer to break it in IMO I think you would have to re-crush the fibers . Additionally with the layered tips, and I am sure anyone who has installed a sniper etc will agree, the tips are stacked then punched again in one direction. In fact Tiger actually states to cut in one direction and they do also indicate glue side. If you don't "cut" or trim the tip directionally the layers can "lift" thus almost ruining the performance of the tip. I think a good performing tip is the lifeblood of your game and it should not be taken for granted. Please take this as my opinion and if I am wrong please correct me accordingly.

P.S. We wouldn't put cross grain wood in a cue but so why install a tip backwards.
 
Last edited:
CarromBilliards said:
This is solely my opinion. If a tip is stamped during manufacturing it will have a specific "grain" compressing the fibers in one direction. If you reverse this direction you will have a non performing tip or it will take quite a bit longer to break it in IMO I think you would have to re-crush the fibers . Additionally with the layered tips, and I am sure anyone who has installed a sniper etc will agree, the tips are stacked then punched again in one direction. In fact Tiger actually states to cut in one direction and they do also indicate glue side. If you don't "cut" or trim the tip directionally the layers can "lift" thus almost ruining the performance of the tip. I think a good performing tip is the lifeblood of your game and it should not be taken for granted. Please take this as my opinion and if I am wrong please correct me accordingly.

P.S. We wouldn't put cross grain wood in a cue but so why install a tip backwards.
Click to expand...

I think you have a few things mixed up here. When the leather is compressed it is flattened out. the fibers are flattened out but they would still be the same from front to back as the leather is being squeezed. Same pressure on either side. Now if you tried to put the tip on sideways I would have to agree with you as then the fibers orientation would be changed. I have questioned the proper glue side , not because of compression but because leather is only polished on one surface after tanning so which side is up? the polished or the rougher backside. As far as Tiger brand tips, most are marked front and back but I'm not sure it makes a difference. I'll tell you why I state this. I believe that they may do it just so that people wouldn't keep calling them with the question of which is the glue side? By stamping that on then they don't have an employee answering the phone all day. What has me thinking this is that Tiger makes their Everest tips, sold retail, stamped on one side showing where to glue. They also sell them in bulk to cue makers and these are not marked for which side to glue on. I called Tiger and talked to Cory and he told me that it doesn't make any difference what side the glue is put on. If this is the same with the rest of their tips, well, I don't know. Perhaps Cory will pop on here and say.

Dick
 
> In my limited experience with them,I can't see any difference. I've had 1994 old school Moori's that came out of a can where some were marked,and some weren't. On the ones that weren't marked,I just picked one based on what it looked like after sanding/leveling. I bought a few from J.R. Calvert that were made for Falcon,that weren't marked,but also got some out of the same box that were domed,LOL. I beta-tested a few tips for Talisman,and the ones that had it marked,that was the side I used,on the others I picked again after sanding. Again,some of the samples Tony sent were pre-domed.

The only way I can see it mattering is if the bottom of the tip was somehow dramtically harder,like those 2 piece Tiger jump/break tips,or had some kind of coating like the Sniper.

Then again,the only layered tips I've ever installed have been for my own use. I bought 20 Moori's from Joe Gold in 1994,thinking that once people found out how good the originals were,they'd go quick. Every one of them that got used was by me because there wasn't a soul locally that would pay me 30 to install it,I paid 20 a pop for them. Tommy D.
 
I am not sure how much difference it makes. But for the Tiger products line they told me that you always use the logo side as the glue side.
 
Most layered tip are stamped out of a larger piece of layered material. When they are stamped the force caused the edges to bend slightly with the stamp. If you feel most layered tips you will find one edge is rounded and the other is sharp. The sharp end should go against the cue.
 
Thanks for all the input!! I will take this all into consideration. I do have a second part to this question though....

If the glue side is embossed and you are suppose to sand the glue side to a flat even surface, does that mean i have to sand the bottom of the tip until the logo is no more? If you do not will this create an air pocket?
 
deadendcruser said:
Thanks for all the input!! I will take this all into consideration. I do have a second part to this question though....

If the glue side is embossed and you are suppose to sand the glue side to a flat even surface, does that mean i have to sand the bottom of the tip until the logo is no more? If you do not will this create an air pocket?
Click to expand...

i usually do to be safe, i havent heard of anything else. Sniper puts that black layer on the bottom, usually when i get that completly gone th emboss goes with it lol
 
KJ Cues said:
Obviously, the manufacturers of the tips feel that there is a difference.
Otherwise, why waste the time & ink to inform the installer which is the glue side.
Click to expand...

on the other side of the coin, even if it doesnt matter, some might put a stamp there just to make it easier for the installer. some people get confused if everything is not laid out perfectly for them. if it doesnt matter which side is the glue side and an installer saw a blank tip he might have doubts as to which side to use. so the stamp could just be there to make things easier, even if it doesnt make a difference which side is used.
 
CarromBilliards said:
Tip direction

This is solely my opinion. If a tip is stamped during manufacturing it will have a specific "grain" compressing the fibers in one direction. If you reverse this direction you will have a non performing tip or it will take quite a bit longer to break it in IMO I think you would have to re-crush the fibers . Additionally with the layered tips, and I am sure anyone who has installed a sniper etc will agree, the tips are stacked then punched again in one direction. In fact Tiger actually states to cut in one direction and they do also indicate glue side. If you don't "cut" or trim the tip directionally the layers can "lift" thus almost ruining the performance of the tip. I think a good performing tip is the lifeblood of your game and it should not be taken for granted. Please take this as my opinion and if I am wrong please correct me accordingly.

P.S. We wouldn't put cross grain wood in a cue but so why install a tip backwards.
Click to expand...
I noticed with Ultraskins I would have a layer come off from time to time while trimming down. Am I trimming wrong? I use my tool post as a blade rest. Should I maybe buy the automatic trimmer from Chris Hightower and cut that way? Glad you mentioned that, thanx.
 
Another point with regards to the layered tips is that on some of them, the layers are different types of leather with harder layers near the cue and softer layers near the tip.
 
A Kamui Clear upside down? You would think the presence of the clear poly layer on the top of the tip might be a dead giveaway...
 
DeeRay86 said:
I noticed with Ultraskins I would have a layer come off from time to time while trimming down. Am I trimming wrong? I use my tool post as a blade rest. Should I maybe buy the automatic trimmer from Chris Hightower and cut that way? Glad you mentioned that, thanx.
Click to expand...

I use the one from Mid-America with great success, and not only for tips. Anytime you need a nice radius, the tool works really well. Joint protectors, butt caps, bumpers, etc..
 
DeeRay86 said:
I noticed with Ultraskins I would have a layer come off from time to time while trimming down. Am I trimming wrong? I use my tool post as a blade rest. Should I maybe buy the automatic trimmer from Chris Hightower and cut that way? Glad you mentioned that, thanx.
Click to expand...
This very well could be a heat build up issue from lathe turning to fast or a dull blade
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top