Gluing the seams?

jtompilot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was at Paradise billiards today when a table mechanic came in to fix the popped slates on a Diamond Professional, Red Label. I mentioned that if you glue the seams they won’t pop. Then I asked him if he glues the slates and he just said “don’t worry, I’m here”.🤣 I have never seen anyone glue the seams.

How many mechanics glue the seams?
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I was at Paradise billiards today when a table mechanic came in to fix the popped slates on a Diamond Professional, Red Label. I mentioned that if you glue the seams they won’t pop. Then I asked him if he glues the slates and he just said “don’t worry, I’m here”.🤣 I have never seen anyone glue the seams.

How many mechanics glue the seams?
Only the good ones. But it's not really necessary. If I got paid to come back and fix stuff I'd hope no one ever glued a seam.

I'm not a mechanic but that's my 2 cents worth.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
Only the good ones. But it's not really necessary. If I got paid to come back and fix stuff I'd hope no one ever glued a seam.
If it's done right and just 3-4 small spots are glued with paper between the slates, you just need to run a razor knife down the seam and they'll come apart easily. Scrape the glue and paper off, and you're good to go.
Gluing the seams does make a big difference, especially if you have to manipulate the slates a bit to get the seams perfectly even all the way across.
It also makes minor adjustments after assembly a lot less nerve wracking, since you don't have to worry about the seams popping.
 
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jtompilot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If it's done right and just 3-4 small spots are glued with paper between the slates, you just need to run a razor knife down the seam and they'll come apart easily. Scrape the glue and paper off, and you're good to go.
Gluing the seams does make a big difference, especially if you have to manipulate the slates a bit to get the seams perfectly even all the way across.
It also makes minor adjustments after assembly a lot less nerve wracking, since you don't have to worry about the seams popping.
Thanks for the explanation. Do you use bondo afterwards or is bees wax ok?
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
If it's done right and just 3-4 small spots are glued with paper between the slates, you just need to run a razor knife down the seam and they'll come apart easily. Scrape the glue and paper off, and you're good to go.
Gluing the seams does make a big difference, especially if you have to manipulate the slates a bit to get the seams perfectly even all the way across.
It also makes minor adjustments after assembly a lot less nerve wracking, since you don't have to worry about the seams popping.
Just regular paper or something a little thicker? Do you glue them in 3 seperate spots? Im probably going to have to recover my table myself because I cant find a competent mechanic in my area and I am going to recheck my slates when the cloth is off. Do I want to use regular 860 or 860HR. I have regular 860 right now and have no complaints, the table typically goes 4 1/2-4 3/4 table lengths hitting the cue ball short rail to short rail so the current speed seems good.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
I like using regular notebook paper. I fold it in half, then fold a couple of tabs near the top so it can't slip through. The tabs help channel the glue where it needs to go, too.
I typically use 3 or 4 short pieces per seam. Use very thin super glue. Soak the paper, then hit it with some accelerator. A razor blade scraper cleans it right up.


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fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
If it's done right and just 3-4 small spots are glued with paper between the slates, you just need to run a razor knife down the seam and they'll come apart easily. Scrape the glue and paper off, and you're good to go.
Gluing the seams does make a big difference, especially if you have to manipulate the slates a bit to get the seams perfectly even all the way across.
It also makes minor adjustments after assembly a lot less nerve wracking, since you don't have to worry about the seams popping.
The glued seems even come a part easily on pinned slates? Or is glueing not required on pinned slates?
PS: I am sure happy that I was reading these forums when I found my GCI, I had to disassemble it, I had never worked on one, and I had no clue about pinned slates, Im sure I would have broken the slate by the pins if I was not privy to these forums. This section is gold mine of information, thank you to all who share this info with us "wannabes".
 

Tony_in_MD

You want some of this?
Silver Member
My GCII has pinned slates and the mechanic glued the slates together as described by Sheldon. Bondo was also used on the seams.
 

Hard Knock Cues

Well-known member
I'll glue the seams like Sheldon described and use a automotive glazing or spot putty. Regular bondo is too thick IMO. I stopped using bees wax because I noticed it will bulge up just a little over time, especially if the temperature fluctuates up and down too much.
Full disclaimer I've only been working on tables a couple years now and as a side gig. So I am curious what other mechanics use or if they have had the bees wax problem.

Thanks, Robert
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'll glue the seams like Sheldon described and use a automotive glazing or spot putty. Regular bondo is too thick IMO. I stopped using bees wax because I noticed it will bulge up just a little over time, especially if the temperature fluctuates up and down too much.
Full disclaimer I've only been working on tables a couple years now and as a side gig. So I am curious what other mechanics use or if they have had the bees wax problem.

Thanks, Robert
FWIW, Bondo isn't too thick and is the preferred product for seam filling by many mechanics.
 

Hard Knock Cues

Well-known member
FWIW, Bondo isn't too thick and is the preferred product for seam filling by many mechanics.
So I found out yesterday that doing bigger spots with the glazing/spot putty could be a little more time consuming. I had to repair a chipped spot in the slate of a old Wendt table and it took a couple coats because it sank in some. I do like it for minor spots but I better get some regular bondo as well.

Just wanted to share my experience for others knowledge.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So I found out yesterday that doing bigger spots with the glazing/spot putty could be a little more time consuming. I had to repair a chipped spot in the slate of a old Wendt table and it took a couple coats because it sank in some. I do like it for minor spots but I better get some regular bondo as well.

Just wanted to share my experience for others knowledge.
I used the Bondo Glazing Putty quite a bit when I restored my Gold Crown I. It was ideal because it sticks to primer.
 
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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Let's see if I can clear all this up for you guys so that everyone has a better understanding of this process. First of all, I use sheet rock tape, folded in half, ran the full length of the seams, why? Because I don't always put super glue in the exact same places, and once you start gluing, it's not like you can just change your mind and decide to add some paper here and there depending on what you need to do to flush up the seams. I don't glue the whole seam with the sheet rock tape, just where I need it. Then, for those of you that like using wax, good for you, I use bondo, but that's my preference, BUT when using wax, guess what? With the slate seam gapped with paper, the wax runs right through the seam and out the bottom until its cooled enough to harden, BUT the sheet rock tape running the full width of the seams, PREVENTS the leakage of the wax out the bottom by creating a dam in the slate seam, creating a stopping point for the wax, so it only fills up from the top of the sheet rock up, which I tuck down about an 1/8" below the surface. BINGO, less wax used. Then, to the poster than said he notice the wax creating a ridge above the slate seam, your superglue didn't hold. Why the wax comes up out of the seam is because the slates are screwed down to the frame it sits on. Then when the moisture evaporates from the frame innthe heat of the summer months, it the heat inside the house, the frame shrinks in length, pulling the seams tightly together and bada boom, bada Bing, the wax gets squeezed up and out of the seam, because it can't go anywhere else. How can you avoid this? Simple, once you have your sheet rock tape embedded in your seams, take 2 ratchet straps, 1 for each side of the slate, run the ratchet strap through one end slate bolt hole, the closest hole to the center slate, then continue on and bring the ratchet strap back up through the same position bolt hole onnthe other end slate, then run the tail end of the strap through the ratchet handle, and while the 2 hooks are connected together, both hook ends of the ratchet strap, go ahead and tighten the ratchet strap, effectively pulling the 3 pieces of slate tightly together. Then, starting with the outside of each seam, flush the slates, superglue 6" next seam, same thing, until the outside edges of the seams are superglued together. Then remove the ratchet straps, move the slate around as one piece, center it up on the frame, make sure the frame is level, should have already done that before putting the slates on the frame. Fine tune level the frame, then check the rest of the seams for flatness to each other, superglue the center 6" then anywhere else you think needs superglued, then mount your end slate screws last. Now, you're ready for leveling, finishing off your seams with wax or bondo, and leveling the slates on the frame.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is NO excuse for not looking for better way of doing things. "That's they way its always been done, and that's the way I've always done it" is the excuses used to refuse to believe there are better ways of doing this job of being a pool table mechanic!!
 

snookered_again

Well-known member
I like this stuff more than bondo or glazing putty. It dries extremely hard but takes overnight. when you mix it it goes very watery, but it hardens up, as the name implies, hard like rock.

it may not matter if you are just filling a crack, but if it's a place on the table where someone may slam a ball down, that's a different scenario, and of course people shouldn't be slamming balls down , Reality is, some do.

 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I like this stuff more than bondo or glazing putty. It dries extremely hard but takes overnight. when you mix it it goes very watery, but it hardens up, as the name implies, hard like rock.

it may not matter if you are just filling a crack, but if it's a place on the table where someone may slam a ball down, that's a different scenario, and of course people shouldn't be slamming balls down , Reality is, some do.

To many problems with using that.
 
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