Go for maximum weight with phenolic tip?
- Thread starter berlowmj
- Start date
You can strike the cueball off center with most phenolic tips, you just cant get out on the edge of the ball. But as far as your question.... it depends on if you break better with a heavier cue. There is a small increase in speed for the weight increase, but it doesnt really add up to much though. You are much better off finding a cue weight and balance point that fits your stroke the best, and go from there. Some folks like heavy, some folks prefer light.... varies person to person.
Chuck
Chuck
Phenolic tips do allow you to apply english. You can generate more cue speed, with a lighter cue. There is an end point, where lighter does not give you more. Obviously a feather, moving 300 mph, will not transfer much energy. IMO, there is not an optimal break cue weight. The optimal weight, actually varies from one player to the next. Another thing to consider is, some people's muscles are better suited for speed and other's for slower, more powerful tasks. So here it is, a heavier cue transfer energy more easily, but a light cue generates more speed. Finding the perfect weight is a personal thing, no one can suggest, a break cue weight, that is perfect for everyone.berlowmj said:
Tracy
i bought several different weighted phenolic jump/break cues, and it seems like something about my cue weight works best for me......my cue weighs 18.5, and my best break cue weighs 19.5. Like someone said.......a feather hitting you at 300mph wont carry much energy........just like a brick traveling at 1 mph wont either, the happy medium is somewhere in between. You can definitely get english on the ball with the phenolic tip.
I have spent lots of time working on the break. I have about 6 different configurations for break cues, and several of them have adjustable weight. I think a few things are definitely true:
1) You can move a lighter cue faster
2) A heavier cue has slightly more momentum
3) A heavier cue has a greater tendency to continue moving in the direction it is pushed.
This makes it sound like a heavier cue might be better. The problem is that if you do not have the strength to EFFORTLESSLY move the cue at the speed you want, then you have to TRY to move it fast. This usually results in a breakdown of stroking technique, and hence less cue ball control. With a phenolic tip, this means more miscues, and more hitting the head ball inaccurately and at a high speed. If you happen to catch the heavy cue just right, you might occasionally get a more explosive break. On the average, however, you will get the best accuracy by finding the heaviest weight that you can swing smoothely and effortlessly.
You can get TONS of spin on the cueball with a phenolic tip. Not as much as a traditional leather tip, but still a lot on the break shot.
I've tried weights from 16.3 to 21 oz. I have a Pete Ohman break cue (which I LOVE). It is 18.8 oz. without any weight bolt. I found this to give me lots of speed and good control. I recently stuck in a 1.5 oz. bolt. This puts the cue's weight up to about 20.3 oz. I find that I get about the same power, maybe a hair more, and a little better control. I am tall and have long arms, so I have a very long strok and a great deal of time to get those 20.3 oz. up to speed. For someone like me, the slightly heavier cue works well. I am not particualrly strong, but have good technique. My fastest break speed on record is with this setup. Also, it seems like with less effort I can get a great POP on the head ball. If you can, you should experiment with adding weight (or taking it away). Don't jusge on the initial results. Usually there is an adjustment process. I found I was initially trying to hit the break too hard-I mean TRYING too much. When I tried to just swing the cue easy and let my technique get the power, my speed actually went up and my control went WAY up. I do think that the heavier weight magnifies the errors, unless you consciously think about hitting the rack "easy".
Hope this helps,
KMRUNOUT
1) You can move a lighter cue faster
2) A heavier cue has slightly more momentum
3) A heavier cue has a greater tendency to continue moving in the direction it is pushed.
This makes it sound like a heavier cue might be better. The problem is that if you do not have the strength to EFFORTLESSLY move the cue at the speed you want, then you have to TRY to move it fast. This usually results in a breakdown of stroking technique, and hence less cue ball control. With a phenolic tip, this means more miscues, and more hitting the head ball inaccurately and at a high speed. If you happen to catch the heavy cue just right, you might occasionally get a more explosive break. On the average, however, you will get the best accuracy by finding the heaviest weight that you can swing smoothely and effortlessly.
You can get TONS of spin on the cueball with a phenolic tip. Not as much as a traditional leather tip, but still a lot on the break shot.
I've tried weights from 16.3 to 21 oz. I have a Pete Ohman break cue (which I LOVE). It is 18.8 oz. without any weight bolt. I found this to give me lots of speed and good control. I recently stuck in a 1.5 oz. bolt. This puts the cue's weight up to about 20.3 oz. I find that I get about the same power, maybe a hair more, and a little better control. I am tall and have long arms, so I have a very long strok and a great deal of time to get those 20.3 oz. up to speed. For someone like me, the slightly heavier cue works well. I am not particualrly strong, but have good technique. My fastest break speed on record is with this setup. Also, it seems like with less effort I can get a great POP on the head ball. If you can, you should experiment with adding weight (or taking it away). Don't jusge on the initial results. Usually there is an adjustment process. I found I was initially trying to hit the break too hard-I mean TRYING too much. When I tried to just swing the cue easy and let my technique get the power, my speed actually went up and my control went WAY up. I do think that the heavier weight magnifies the errors, unless you consciously think about hitting the rack "easy".
Hope this helps,
KMRUNOUT
Yes, that is what I was thinking of, but the terminology eluded me.berlowmj said:
Tracy
My .02 cents
Just last night, I accidently shot a trapped ball by the pocket that was surrounded by 3 other balls. I had just enough room to make it, and I had to pull the cue ball back out with very little room for error, meaning the cue ball had to come straight out without varying to either side. Well, I shot the shot, and it grabbed and sucked back out about 5-6" above the balls that had it trapped. Then someone said, 'How come you shot that with your break cue?". I looked at my cue, and it was my Break/Jump cue, not my playing cue ... lol So, yes you can get english on the cue with a phenolic tip, but it is a little like driving on ice, you are better staying closer to the center.
I would say the target area for cueing the cue ball with a phenolic tip is
quarter size from dead center, meaning put the center of the quarter right on dead center of the cue ball Go outside of quarter size, and wierd things will happen ... lol
Just last night, I accidently shot a trapped ball by the pocket that was surrounded by 3 other balls. I had just enough room to make it, and I had to pull the cue ball back out with very little room for error, meaning the cue ball had to come straight out without varying to either side. Well, I shot the shot, and it grabbed and sucked back out about 5-6" above the balls that had it trapped. Then someone said, 'How come you shot that with your break cue?". I looked at my cue, and it was my Break/Jump cue, not my playing cue ... lol So, yes you can get english on the cue with a phenolic tip, but it is a little like driving on ice, you are better staying closer to the center.
I would say the target area for cueing the cue ball with a phenolic tip is
quarter size from dead center, meaning put the center of the quarter right on dead center of the cue ball Go outside of quarter size, and wierd things will happen ... lol