Going from a 7 ft table to a 9ft table!

Why is it much harder to go from an 7ft table on to a 9ft table?
- longer shots are more difficult.
- longer CB travel distances can make CB control more difficult.
- pockets often play "tighter" on typical 9' tables (compared to typical "bar box" pockets)

Why is it easier to go from a 9ft table to a 7ft table?
- shorter shots are easier.
- CB control can be better when CB travel distances are shorter.
- pockets are usually much more "accepting" on typical bar boxes (e.g., the corner pockets on typical Valley/Dynamo "bar boxes" that play like gigantic buckets).

Regards,
Dave
 
Neil (and anybody else who is interested),

Equations and plots for determining shot margins for error for various CB-OB distances, OB-pocket distances, and cut angles can be found here:

[URL="http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cut.html"]cut shot margin for error resource page[/URL]

Margin for error depends directly on distance (CB-OB or OB-pocket). If assuming everything else is the same in the comparison (pocket geometry and conditions), since 7.5' is about 36% longer than 5.5', the longer shot is about 36% more difficult.

Now, a good player might not think the longer shot is much more difficult because they can make either of them a high percentage of the time. Howerver, a player that has less precision with their aiming, alignment and stroke, the 36% increase in difficulty can be significant.

Regards,
Dave

Thanks much Dr. Dave! I have to say, I am quite surprised by the difference! I would have bet against there being that much difference between the two shots.
 
Thanks much Dr. Dave! I have to say, I am quite surprised by the difference! I would have bet against there being that much difference between the two shots.
... probably because you are a good shooter and would expect to pocket both shots with a near-equal success rate.

Regards,
Dave
 
I forgot one other thing, I dont think it was mentioned. Rolling the ball on a small table, as opposed to sliding.... is usually a bad idea. A big table player may not realize that, at least not right away.
 
Rolling the ball on a small table, as opposed to sliding.... is usually a bad idea. A big table player may not realize that, at least not right away.

Why would that be? On my 9' table it seems like you get better accuracy rolling the cue ball rather than skidding/sliding, why would it be different on a smaller table?
 
Why would that be? On my 9' table it seems like you get better accuracy rolling the cue ball rather than skidding/sliding, why would it be different on a smaller table?

Because in general, smaller tables dont roll as well as bigger ones. So if you slow roll, you are at the mercy of the table. Even on a big table, hitting firm is preferred, mostly for that reason.
 
all around the 9fter is a harder table to play on.

although i will say that the bar box does have some benefits. i think the bar box gives you a nice touch, and precision on bar boxes playing 8 ball may help you on your 9ft game. it gives you a good sense of what the cue ball will do with hose real finite shots where literally millimeters can matter.

but with the barbox, your mechanics may begin to slouch because you dont have to put too much thought into the shot itself. also, you dont really use a power stroke like you would playing 9 ball on a 9 ft table.
 
- longer shots are more difficult.
- longer CB travel distances can make CB control more difficult.
- pockets often play "tighter" on typical 9' tables (compared to typical "bar box" pockets)


- shorter shots are easier.
- CB control can be better when CB travel distances are shorter.
- pockets are usually much more "accepting" on typical bar boxes (e.g., the corner pockets on typical Valley/Dynamo "bar boxes" that play like gigantic buckets).

Regards,
Dave

DR.DAVE, THINK YOU VERY MUCH BROTHER!

You have made it very clear and easy to understand, even a Dummy like me can understand how you broke it down!

We need more members of your caliber and know how, thanks again!
 
Another factor in playing on the 9 foot that I haven't seen mentioned yet is the use of the bridge. Very seldom do you need a bridge for a 7 footer, but a 9 footer, unless you shoot very well both righty and lefty, you will need to learn how to use it effectively. Watch some of the snooker pros, they use it very well and they all basically all use the same form and stroke with the "rest".
 
Another factor in playing on the 9 foot that I haven't seen mentioned yet is the use of the bridge. Very seldom do you need a bridge for a 7 footer, but a 9 footer, unless you shoot very well both righty and lefty, you will need to learn how to use it effectively. Watch some of the snooker pros, they use it very well and they all basically all use the same form and stroke with the "rest".

This is very true, I have notice that most of your better players can play with their other hand also.

And a lot of times this would eliminate using that dam old bridge.
 
- longer shots are more difficult.
- longer CB travel distances can make CB control more difficult.
- pockets often play "tighter" on typical 9' tables (compared to typical "bar box" pockets)


- shorter shots are easier.
- CB control can be better when CB travel distances are shorter.
- pockets are usually much more "accepting" on typical bar boxes (e.g., the corner pockets on typical Valley/Dynamo "bar boxes" that play like gigantic buckets).

Regards,
Dave

Gotta love Dr Dave. Always the best info.
 
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