Gold Crown 1
- Thread starter pogmothoin
- Start date
slate for sure, another way to tell is from the couple small chips that sheared themselves off the back when I set them down.
Questions about Brunstone.
Is it a natural or manufactured stone, and what kind of things could have gone wrong to have the last owner need to replace them?
fwiw, I am glad he did.
steven
Questions about Brunstone.
Is it a natural or manufactured stone, and what kind of things could have gone wrong to have the last owner need to replace them?
fwiw, I am glad he did.
steven
Thanks for this post. Sometimes it helps to see something in print.
I don't think I would have lifted up the slate from one end, but a nephew helping his uncle move a pool table might have been very curious as to how heavy the slate actually is.
"under no circumstance will anyone lift up on the slate from the end"
gets the point across.
There is no play in the pinned seams, and they would have broken instantly, I would think
thx again
steven
Table
It don't look to have machine marks, looks very much not like slate.
All the Brunswick GC real slates I've come across had mineral marks in the slate and obvious machine marks/brizilan slate.
Here's a GC2/3 slate that's in the warehouse and it looks very similar to what the OP has.
What do you call this?
Rob.M
It don't look to have machine marks, looks very much not like slate.
All the Brunswick GC real slates I've come across had mineral marks in the slate and obvious machine marks/brizilan slate.
Here's a GC2/3 slate that's in the warehouse and it looks very similar to what the OP has.
What do you call this?
Rob.M
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These have the reddish-brown color like Brunstone.
The "slate" used in the GC1s was actually not slate but a fine-grained sandstone, which is a natural stone.
I painted my table Sherwin Williams Lock Blue (SW6502) and Cotton White (SW7104) The plastic rail blinds I used Krylon Fusion Dover White spray paint.
They were powder coated silver. I didn't want chrome and it was less expensive than having them buffed and lacquered.
OK, fine. Brunstone is very brittle and is prone to cracking if it's to sway back and you're trying to shim it level. Also, a lot of brunstone has 2 to 3 dark ridges that run the full length of the surface because when they're stacked after milling them they're separated with sticker boards that seem to prevent the drying shrinkage evenly under the stacker boards, which causes 3" to 4" wide ridges that stick up higher than the playing surface.
I searched this site and anywhere else I could when researching the GC1 prior to purchasing it. Besides color and the lack of machine marks you had posted something a while back about the pockets being cut at an angle on brunstone if I remember correctly.
When looking to purchase my table my local mechanic was able to tell that the original brunstone slates were warped (don't know if that is an accurate description but they were bad)
Anyway one of the reasons I posted my original question and the subsequent results is because I found it difficult to find good information on the GC1. There was quite a bit of conflicting info at times as well.
I certainly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and hope at some point this thread can provide some answers to others looking to educate themselves on the GC1.
It was a fun project that came out better than I expected. I enjoyed meeting Ken Hash at Classic Billiards (http://www.classicbilliards.net) who is a wealth of knowledge. Also my conversations with Mark Gregory who, in addition to rebuilding the rails, also provided some great information.
It don't look to have machine marks, looks very much not like slate.
All the Brunswick GC real slates I've come across had mineral marks in the slate and obvious machine marks/brizilan slate.
Here's a GC2/3 slate that's in the warehouse and it looks very similar to what the OP has.
What do you call this?
Rob.M
That's brunstone
From the color that looks a lot like Brunstone to me.
Pictured is brunstone
Looks the same as the brunstone that was originally on my table. Unfortunately mine was not level.
The mechanic who did my table told me that while real slate has some flex brunstone does not. Therefore since my "slate" was warped if he attempted to bring it back to true it would likely crack. Not all are damaged, I would be curious to know what percentage of original tables developed problems.
thx, I had home depot match my colors and had them make a couple quarts of exterior semi gloss latex.
now I am thinking enamel would be a better choice.
I sanded them down last weekend but no paint, my spray gun decided to act up.. Maybe for the best.
steven
That would be interesting to find out. I know my table and one other local GCI that both have Brunstone that are both fine. Romines High Pockets has 50 or so Gold Crowns, Im not sure if they are 2's or 3's, they are the GC's with the bronze trim and are not GCIV's, they may not even have had Brunstone from Brunswick but if they did that might be a good sample size. If Brunstone warps or "sway-backs" I wonder why you cant shim it so its level again. One would think it was flat when it left the factory. I thought RKC said that as long as the Brunstone was flat there is absolutely no problem with it. Im sure RKC has a pretty good idea what percentage of Brunstone GC's need new table beds.
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Look, in most cases there's othing wrong with the Brunstone. If it's crowned or sway back, then that may also indicate there's a problem with the frame. If the long timber frames have bowed downward over time from improper shimming of the slates, then when you mount the slate it may in fact be flat level, but once you screw mount it to the frame of the table, you may in fact be pulling down both sides of the slate across the frame making the slate appear to be crowned or vice versa. I haven't ran across enough bad brunstone to even worry about it.
That was the answer I was hoping to hear from Mr. RKC, thank you.