Understood... thanks for clarifying that your original comment was in fact wrong.
Second table owner here: some behind Rexus but that gives me the advantage of learning from his progress.
Biggest hurdle at the moment is getting a decent paint finish on the base. 4 coats and sanding between gets old.
Had the corner castings, feet, and trim powder coated (discovered an issue with one casting). One corner had been used as a sawhorse it looks like and they cut into a pocket! Didn’t notice (doh)! and now I have to find and buy another and have it coated at the same vendor.
Have repaired the ball box.
Bought a set of wings from Trent, and Rexus did a nice job repairing a few issues with them — see above.
Bought a few misc parts from classic Billiards, muellers and a local nut and bolt store.
Buffed out the formica and pulled cloth and staples from all the rails. Very pleased with the results,
Scored a sweet replica Brunswick sticker from Rexus. Love that detail! Even though nobody will ever see it lol.
Brother is going to give the paint a go this week. Wish me luck. Maybe I’ll catch Rexus soon!
Also looking for a triangle rack, along with the corner pocket casting.
Wrong?...LOL go take a look at some of the Gabriel's tables in California, the rail skirts and leg pedestals all have spider web cracks in the finish, because they're made out of MDF and not Maple hardwood, like the rail skirts on your table is made from.
Wrong?...LOL go take a look at some of the Gabriel's tables in California, the rail skirts and leg pedestals all have spider web cracks in the finish, because they're made out of MDF and not Maple hardwood, like the rail skirts on your table is made from.
Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL
Looks great Scott !!!
Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL
Raffi (pocket) and I wrapped up the repair on his skirts yesterday. Using the mating pieces as a guide, we drilled the mounting holes. We test fit the pieces together and they are a perfect fit. Not RKC approved but effective nevertheless.
We are both going with nylon fasteners (5/16"-18x3/4") to secure the corners. They work great.
But when you're putting the table together, take a look at the access to each rail bolt so you can see how ti get to it later on.
Thanks. What's the torque spec for the rail bolts?
Depends on the rail bolt anchors Steve rebuilds your rails with, but at least 12ftlbs for the factory anchors, and up to 15ft lbs for the threaded inserts Diamond uses.
Over tightening the rail bolts is what causes so many problems with the factory Brunswick capture nut used in the rails. You have a 1/4" thick nut, with 3 threads used to hold a 3/8"ths thick bolt tight. Because only a few threads are actually holding the rail bolt tight, over tightening them stretches the threads on the bolt. That's what happens when you got to take out the rail bolt and it locks up in place and won't back out, or when installing it, the threads no longer line up in the capture nut. Everyone just assumes the bolt was installed cross threaded, but it's not, the threads no longer match up.
The inserts we use in the Diamond rails have 1 1/8" inch of threads to tighten the bolts with, there is no thread stress with that much thread surface contact.
Thanks. When we last spoke, Steve was on the fence on using threaded inserts or the OEM factory anchors.
It's a lot more work to use the threaded inserts, and I don't know if Steve is set up to do that or not.
I turned wrenches all my life and there is one thing for sure and that is all bolts stretch when torqued to the mfg recommendations! At some point all bolts will fail maybe not so much in this case as that table has not been torn down very many times! But it is something to consider!
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