Gold Crown IV Pro 8 Rebuild
- Thread starter coolidge
- Start date
Wow, 45 minutes per edge with acetone. Did you start hallucinating about a 526 ball run after the first edge? That's dangerous stuff.
Yeah but you have to agree to listening to a 1hr speech about saving pool.
coolidge
Well-known member
Nope, had the patio door and big dining room window open with a fan on full blast ventilating. If I want to huff something it won't be acetone.
coolidge
Well-known member
RKC has been super helpful on my project and generous with his time so please take this to another thread.Yeah but you have to agree to listening to a 1hr speech about saving pool.
Its a joke dude. Relax.
coolidge
Well-known member
I didn't find it funny. My thread go joke in your thread.
coolidge
Well-known member
Adjusting slate flat was about to get on my last nerve so I have gone full machinist tools on it, I got you now mother. 
Slate screws pulling down out of flat was the main issue. The dial indicator lets me monitor as I tighten the slate screw that it doesn't overshoot and remains neutral with the leveler.
When the MDF directly under the slate screw is not in contact with the frame (in the photo below the contact point is about 6 inches to the right) then the slate screw can pull the slate down too far even against the leveler throwing things off. I had been adjusting the seam to .0015 but found even that was enough to catch an edge from the low to high slate. This lets me take it right to zero.
Slate screws pulling down out of flat was the main issue. The dial indicator lets me monitor as I tighten the slate screw that it doesn't overshoot and remains neutral with the leveler.
When the MDF directly under the slate screw is not in contact with the frame (in the photo below the contact point is about 6 inches to the right) then the slate screw can pull the slate down too far even against the leveler throwing things off. I had been adjusting the seam to .0015 but found even that was enough to catch an edge from the low to high slate. This lets me take it right to zero.
That device holding the indicator got a name; who made it? Just curious.Adjusting slate flat was about to get on my last nerve so I have gone full machinist tools on it, I got you now mother.
Slate screws pulling down out of flat was the main issue. The dial indicator lets me monitor as I tighten the slate screw that it doesn't overshoot and remains neutral with the leveler.
When the MDF directly under the slate screw is not in contact with the frame (in the photo below the contact point is about 6 inches to the right) then the slate screw can pull the slate down too far even against the leveler throwing things off. I had been adjusting the seam to .0015 but found even that was enough to catch an edge from the low to high slate. This lets me take it right to zero.
View attachment 624488
Thats why I only use 4 slate screws to mount the slate to the frameAdjusting slate flat was about to get on my last nerve so I have gone full machinist tools on it, I got you now mother.
Slate screws pulling down out of flat was the main issue. The dial indicator lets me monitor as I tighten the slate screw that it doesn't overshoot and remains neutral with the leveler.
When the MDF directly under the slate screw is not in contact with the frame (in the photo below the contact point is about 6 inches to the right) then the slate screw can pull the slate down too far even against the leveler throwing things off. I had been adjusting the seam to .0015 but found even that was enough to catch an edge from the low to high slate. This lets me take it right to zero.
View attachment 624488
coolidge
Well-known member
That's a Oneway Multi Gauge, made in Canada. The dial indicator that's included is on the cheap side but fine for stuff like this. For precise setups of say power machine tools I attach my Mitutoyo electronic indicator instead. That large flap tip is nice though I'll unscrew it and put it on the Mitutoyo, same threads. This thing is surprisingly useful. I purchased it for one particular machine setup but then have used it multiple times since.
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coolidge
Well-known member
I remember that conversation, totally makes sense now.Thats why I only use 4 slate screws to mount the slate to the frame
coolidge
Well-known member
Both. The levelers on the outer parameter contact the MDF under the slate. The center levelers contact the slate directly.
coolidge
Well-known member
Slates flat, screwed down and locked together with super glue. That's right I used all 14 screws because it tried to vex me, it was on after that! 
Table leveled, seams Bondo'd and 400 grit wet sanded so even a human fingertip can't detect the seam. Well I guess super leveled behold the Starrett No 199 level of truth.
It's ready for the new Simonis 860HR cloth.
Read about a @realkingcobra method of forcing a bowed slate down flat using a bottle jack and rachet strap. One slate was bowed .005 high. I was able to press down with one hand in the center of the slate and bring it to flat. Lacking a bottle jack...wait for it...I put a Marshall 50 watt JCM800 amp head on end in the center of the slate and got it flat. Take that Mmacgyver.
Table leveled, seams Bondo'd and 400 grit wet sanded so even a human fingertip can't detect the seam. Well I guess super leveled behold the Starrett No 199 level of truth.
It's ready for the new Simonis 860HR cloth.
Read about a @realkingcobra method of forcing a bowed slate down flat using a bottle jack and rachet strap. One slate was bowed .005 high. I was able to press down with one hand in the center of the slate and bring it to flat. Lacking a bottle jack...wait for it...I put a Marshall 50 watt JCM800 amp head on end in the center of the slate and got it flat. Take that Mmacgyver.