Gun drills for sale

Selling the last, Modified for small lathe available !

I can either keep the few I have for me, or let them go. I guess I am greedy to want more than two, so letting the spares go. Message me if you want one.
18 mm gun drills, these are perfect for forearms. ANd if I do not sell them my wife will complain I am hoarding again ! She threatens to get me on that hoarding tv show !
Same price, $65 sent by Priority USPS Mail. 1/3 of the price of a new gun drill. I have not heard any negative comments on these drills, way overkill for cues, but way nicely made too.

I will offer this: on the remaining drills, for those with a small lathe like a Hightower and not able to re-machine this drill. I will cut it down to 18 inches overall, and tap the rear air feed hole to take a standard air hose fitting, and install a fitting and then center drill that fitting to allow easy alignment using your own Hightower live center and tailstock. All this for the price of $15 additional, total price shipped= $80.00 ! You still have to make the holder out of a block of steel or aluminum. Sorry cannot make that too for just $15. Nor will I cut the shank down to 3/4 inch, not needed, and takes way more time to do. Tough steel used on that gun drill! The drill body is a solid billet, not a tube like most gun drills are made.
I was tempted to make a ready to mount drill and holder for the deluxe, price set up accordingly, but too many irons in the fire right now. Pity though, as I think there is a real market for a drill with that mount.
 
Lou,

Got mine today - wow, that's one helluva a drill bit!!

Everything was well packed and arrived in great condition.

Thanks Man!!!

Gary
 
Thanks Gary !

I shipped out quite a few but most do not take the time to message me back. They are impressively made bits aren't they? Beasts, made to handle tough drilling jobs.
Like I said before: still will sell a couple more: my spares, ty to all that have purchased, my friend was glad to find a user for them. A shame to dump such well made tools, but it is our gain.
 
My drills arrived today.
Thankyou very much.
Cheers for a good deal on a great product.
Neil
 
TY Neil

I also rec'd the boring bar you sent me today. Nicely machined piece of carbide. I am sure it will help me with some deep bore jobs in the future.
Way easier to send those drills to New Zealand than I would have ever imagined. TY for your guidance and patience with that Neil ... Lou.
 
TY Mario, and found a few more drill bits ! Seriously !

Thank you Mario. I helped my buddy clean out the shop after and found a few more of those 18mm gun drills, along with some other odd sizes. He had a ton of them, some were stashed away by a deceased employee, and we only found them by cleaning out everything. So yeah, LOL, I have a few more to sell, or I will hold on to them for sale in the future when a new crop of us cuemakers come to the fold. If anyone decides they want one, message me and I will give info for paypal.
I am really fortunate to be in a forum with so many honest and helpful craftsmen. Thanks for all the nice comments both here and in private that I received . . . Lou.
 
18mm available for $65 shipped USA

Yes I am still sitting on a limited number of them. I grabbed all I could get. I have the 18mm diameter by 13 inch length of cut that can core forearms easily. The 18mm is about 0.708 inches. I had been using a 5/8 size for my forearm and did not like how thin the tenon wall became with using a 3/8 connecting screw, and I thought the 3/4 inch was fat for my likes, so a friend gave me one of these and now am hooked on this size. I also have some small sizes like a .236 that can be used to hollow out the tip end of a shaft. I think I have some 9mm sized drills too. I have one 0.6102in diameter by 18 inch cut as well to sell. Most have been buying the 18mm drills. They were made for engine block manufacturing, and are brand new. I ship by Priority mail to the continental USA.
 
Mailbox Full

olsonsview said:
Yes I am still sitting on a limited number of them. I grabbed all I could get. I have the 18mm diameter by 13 inch length of cut that can core forearms easily. The 18mm is about 0.708 inches. I had been using a 5/8 size for my forearm and did not like how thin the tenon wall became with using a 3/8 connecting screw, and I thought the 3/4 inch was fat for my likes, so a friend gave me one of these and now am hooked on this size. I also have some small sizes like a .236 that can be used to hollow out the tip end of a shaft. I think I have some 9mm sized drills too. I have one 0.6102in diameter by 18 inch cut as well to sell. Most have been buying the 18mm drills. They were made for engine block manufacturing, and are brand new. I ship by Priority mail to the continental USA.
Click to expand...

Olsonview:

Please clear out your mailbox. I will take one if I can get e-mail to you!
 
gun drill

Well, I received two of these drills yesterday and they work just fine.
I use a hacksaw to shorten the 18mm one to manageable length and my (loose as a goose) Porper lathe to turn down the butt end to .750" to fit my boring bar holder. Slow speed, shallow cut: no chatter, no problem. The finish was still not as good as I wanted so I took the last few thousandths with a smooth file for a perfect fit and good finish. I drilled and tapped the butt end for a 1/4" pipe thread for the air line connection.
The drill works very well. It produces a true-size straight hole with an excellent finish. I noticed no tendency to wander. I like the 18mm size, too.
If you need to drill an 18mm hole no more than 13" deep, this drill is a good buy, in my opinion.
Incidentally, I also tried peck-drilling, 1/2" or so at a peck, with no air supply. If you are patient, this works fine, so those with no shop air supply are not left out.
 
interesting comment about peck drilling CarGuy

I never thought of that. If it works doing that, then it can also work with the tailstock if one makes a socket adapter out of steel.
Make a socket out of rod stock, with one end large enough (1.5 inch diameter) to have a male socket bored into the end to hold the drill and also can have it allow air to reach the drill from a side port on the socket, just leave the gundrill end open and insert it into the socket we cut. The other end of our holder must be cut slender enough to fit Chris' tailstock as a simple change out. That would just require cutting the 1.5 inch bar down to 0.50inch about 3.5 inches long. Sounds like a simpler way to use the deluxe or other small lathe to do core drilling. Though a carriage mounted holder is still the best for production work. IMHO.
Thanks for the kind comments CarGuy, I appreciate it! Lou
Still have some 18mm drills to sell, I grabbed every one I could when we found a stash at my buddies shop.
 
Would like one of the 18mm. Sent PM yesterday, forgot to inquire if you can turn the end to 3/4".

Thanks, mac.
 
For those waiting on me to get more drills in stock

I am going to the storage bldg today to pick up more small diameter shaft drills, and some 18mm forearm gun drills. I will be shipping to all that have money deposited in my paypal within the day if no machining is required. I purchased all that I could and put them in my long term storage bldg. I may be able to supply drills for some time yet. Message me with any questions you may have.
 
olsonsview said:
I was asked by some purchasers if they can cut down the 25mm shank. The answer is yes, but do so with the following information:

I experimented by cutting down the shank of one of these 18mm drills. There is plenty of metal to go down to 3/4 inch size. I cut a new shank right in front of the factory shank, and one can cut off the factory shank and retap for a pipe plug if so inclined. I do not recommend cutting the actual fluted drill to make a deeper cutting drill though. I found out that fact by destroying one gun drill, the fluted bit only extends into the shank area about 1.25 inches before it ends! I had cut down a similar bit from the same source years ago and was quite successful, but apparently there are some production differences. SO, in conclusion, yes, you can shorten these drills considerably and go down to a 0.750 shank or less even, BUT: leave alone the 3 inches behind the flute where it is brazed into the barrel of the shank. Make your cut after that safety area. The actual shank is solid steel tube with an approximately 0.340 hole running in the center for coolant passage, just leave alone the actual cutting drill, only modify the shank from 3 inches away from the end of the fluted drill body. Sorry for any confusion, I just wanted any destruction to be on my drill and not yours, so I spent my free time today experimenting.
Click to expand...

Just adding my experience.....

I tried to turn down a gun drill shank (not one of yours) and I cut through the brazed on end and it fell off. I didn't realize that is how they are made. I just continued to cut the actual drill body down to .500 and it was ok. I drilled the side for the air input and plugged the rear air inlet. It works fine in my tail stock chuck on my Hightower.

Kim
 
18mm X 13 inch cut gun drills

I had wanted to warn everyone about cutting into the brazed area. And yes, the drill is still useable. I have the one that I cut off, and it could be made to work fine if someone wants to take the time and do like you did. I could sell it for $30 shipped if anyone wants to do the work.
Also: I will soon have some drills machined with shortened and reduced diameter shanks to chuck in smaller lathes. Some will be made 3/4 inch shank, and some 1/2 inch shank. I am having a machinist friend cnc lathe turn them for me. I am passing on my costs, added to the $65 drill price, so they will be $82 shipped each. The machinist had idle machine time, so I handed him the drills I had stashed away, with instructions on what was needed done to them. PM me with any questions or orders. Thanks for all the interest.
 
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