handle vs' forearms
- Thread starter bubsbug
- Start date
Pechauer's.
I use a 2 inch x 5/8th inch tenon into the forearm all forearms...
bubsbug said:
I do it both ways. All depends on where I want the balance point. My tenon is .750 and is 1" long past the deco-rings. Truthfully, although I've made hundreds of cues this way, I'm not happy with it. I believe this is one of, if not the most, weakened area of the cue. It makes no difference which part is the female, it can't be very strong with that large of a hole bored into it. That only leaves about a .125 of material around the tenon. I keep thinking of better ways to make this A-joint but every time it comes time to do this I think to myself that now is not the time to change. Try it out on the next cue.
Dick
bubsbug said:
I cut the tenon on the end of the forearm, this tenon is a 1 1/2 inch long and the diameter is .625 or 5/8 diameter. I then take a piece of Phenolic Tubing with .625 ID and glue it with epoxy to my tenon. I apply pressure for 24 hour's and then I turn the Phenolic tubing down to .750 or 3/4. I then bore my hole and tap it 3/8-10, I apply my connection screw which is 3 inches long and cut from threaded rod. I apply my rings directly over the Phenolic on my tenon, I then prepare the handle and join them together. As soon this part is compete, I put the butt between two centers and turn it slowly to check that there is no run out at the connection. This way if necessary I can make an adjustment before the adhesive sets, I use West Systems with 206 hardener for this.
It depends on if you are after balance or strength. If you want the stongest you run the tenon up into the forearm on a wrapped cue and run it into the handle on a wrapless cue. I used to smile when I heard cuemakers insist that since the forearm is getting smaller with the taper toward going smaller toward the joint, that it made it stronger to run the tenon back into the handle. This is true with a wrapless cue. But when you take away .050" for the wrap groove a wrapped cue is much thinner there than the forearm would be. I usually go into the forearm with a 5/8" by 5/8" tenon and steel screw or aluminum screw. I have went the other way a few times also. Can't tell a tremendous amount of difference in balance.
dave sutton
Banned
manwon said:
this is my exact process minus the phenolic. i dont use that
manwan what adv do you get from this. stiffer butt?
ive seen a cuemaker that uses a double tenon maybe 1/2in out of forearm and aslo 1/2in out of handle then both tenons are put into 1in phenolic tubing with 3x8-10 threaded rod.
ive been thinking of trying this way also.
like rhn i dont really like boring a hole that big into my forearm
dave sutton said:
Dave I got the idea from a broken cue, I had the privilege and the horror to see, and that was a Burton Spain original that was broken in half near the handle. I do not know if this was an experiment that Burton tried, or if it was a standard thing he did during construction. I think Burton was concerned with a failure at this location creating a Buzz. It started me thinking that this will not only prevent that from occurring, it would also re-enforce the entire joint due to the materials strength. Dave I would also say that extra strength at this location can only be a good thing, and with the adhesives today if all is true when assemble it will stay that way.
As we both know, this is very a stable material that is not known for expansion or contraction due to out side facts, after construction. This is how I build all my cues, and while I am a beginner I like the end results.
Just some thoughts Dave, have a good night!!!!!!!
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