Has anybody ever tried to play with- or make a tip like this?

I would be suspicious too. I don't think I've ever seen a flat tip on a break cue.
The biggest disadvantage of having a flatter (or totally flat) tip on a break cue is you wouldn't get the benefit of automatic stroke-error correction that comes with having a rounded tip and your bridge length well matched to the natural pivot length of the cue. See cue natural pivot length for more information and supporting resources.

Regards,
Dave
 
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I take the opposite point of view.
I want my break tip dime-shaped, like my playing cue.
...this focuses the energy....flat-shaped dissipates it.

If you want to knock someone out, you don't slap, you punch.

There is no substitute for hitting center ball if you're breaking hard.

I use a flat tip on my cue and i break fine with it. Hitting with the heel of your palm will knock somebody out, too. I think it's buffalo.
 
In real life, a player could play with a cue that has a tip radius that matches the radius of the cue ball. The balls react that way, so can a cue with a matching radius.

Many thousand hours have gone into cue tip research & cue tip diameter. I am satisfied with the info up to this point. 12.7mm dia. with a nickel radius works for me.

My Break tip is 13.5mm dia. with a 0.75 radius tip.

Good Luck to you folks in finding what works for you.
 
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...a player could play with a cue that a tip radius to match the cue ball.
If you mean a tip radius the same as a cue ball's radius... with a tip that "flat" you'd be hitting on the edge of your tip whenever you're at 50% of maximum offset or more. A smaller radius tip (nickel or dime) allows you to hit on the surface of the tip all the way to maximum offset.

pj
chgo

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When I play pool, I'm not looking for consistency.....I'm looking for something GREAT.
....one finds that so many of the failures to be great are better than other's efforts to be
consistent....(which is usually being content with mediocrity )

lol...I think we're more alike than we know.

One of my biggest problems with winning/losing is I play some shots just to see how it might work...or not....all for more fun.

Then I remember, as I sit back down to watch my opponent shoot, is that winning can be fun, too.

Jeff Livingston
 
Flat Tip

I think that a flat tip.. before he uses the drill.. would be more useful in actual play.

I know a really good one pocket player that uses a flat tip. He puts blue dots on the cue ball he leaves so much chalk but he sure controls whitey.
 
Man, we all need to stop this crap. None of this matters. Get on the table and practice or gamble your brains out. That's it. All this stuff about tip shape and aiming systems and cue length extensions and tip brands is all meaningless.
How is that working out for you?

This is the type of post which is not productive. Without people thinking about new ways to do things nothing progresses.

The only reason you have good reliable equipment now to gamble your brains out with is because of people who like to tinker and try to improve on what exists.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
I do believe I saw someone like John Barton with a tip like this years ago at SBE I think, was the same concept for sure with the cue ball basically "sitting" in a dimple when struck with center ball. Not sure whatever became of it, but I recall this concept very clearly since I was working for Predator at the time and always had my eyes open for people with "new ideas".....just not sure the person/ place/ result unfortunately.



Neil
Yes there was a tip or something someone gave us to try. I don't remember that it went anywhere though.

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Seems kind of extreme to me. As I understand it though Keith McCready used to prefer to play with a flat tip, so I was told anyway. Perhaps our own JAM could comment on that. He can dab it a little. Personally I think people put too much time & thought into this stuff though. Time playing is far wiser than time contemplating & changing equipment to me, but what do I know?
 
Jerry Powers at Jerico Cues did that in their early Stinger jump/break shaft, but I guess it wasn't popular as they stopped doing it later.

Attached are close-ups of a Stinger shaft with this tip setup, but I believe the tip is phenolic not leather. The profile is pretty flat.

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That Stinger tip design seems 'pretty inefficient' on initial observation. But the center hole filled with high grade chalk would also tend to buffer a CCB hit as for as energy transfer.

R
 
That Stinger tip design seems 'pretty inefficient' on initial observation. But the center hole filled with high grade chalk would also tend to buffer a CCB hit as for as energy transfer.

R

The hole never gets filled with chalk at all on mine.

If one hits the dead center of the CB with the stick perpendicular...
then the entire 'ring' of the hole makes contact right around center ball.

If the cue stick is angled at all or if the hit is slightly off center...
then a portion of the 'ring' makes contact with center cue ball.

If the hit is farther off center than that...
then the tip acts like any other tip as the hole is out of play.

Best 2 You & All.
 
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