Heaters For A Garage
- Thread starter Hirsty
- Start date
Something like this helps a lot. The better you match the BTU's to the square footage the better it will work.
www.globalindustrial.com
Heatstar Liquid Propane Blue Flame Vent Free Heater - 10000 BTU - Piezo
Heatstar Liquid Propane Blue Flame Vent Free Heater - 10000 BTU - Piezo. Buy it and Save at Globalindustrial.com
www.globalindustrial.com
Mitsubishi mini splits are the bomb! The up front purchase and installation $ is pricey, but if you can afford it, they are worth every dollar - they cost virtually nothing to operate - heat or cool! Just make sure you get the right size unit for the square footage you wish to heat / cool.
Is the garage a separate building, or attached to the house?
It's attached to the house.
Why not just run a duct out there from the main line and have a way to completely shut it off when you don't want it? If you have central air , it can be cool in summer also
Not sure if that will pass code. A reputable installer might not run ducts into a garage
It would be way too much square footage inbalance from room to room to be effective anyway. A 5000 or more btu window AC would be much more effective and you can buy them with heaters on them.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
These work awesomely. We used one in our first house. It wasn't the blue flame type but vent free. The house was build in the 1890s and had single pane floor to ceiling windows. High ceilings so the window was legitimately 6' tall. The heater went up to 10 and we never turned it above about 2.5. The only thing is they do make moisture so you would also want to run a de-humidifier for a pool-centric situation.Something like this helps a lot. The better you match the BTU's to the square footage the better it will work.
Heatstar Liquid Propane Blue Flame Vent Free Heater - 10000 BTU - Piezo
Heatstar Liquid Propane Blue Flame Vent Free Heater - 10000 BTU - Piezo. Buy it and Save at Globalindustrial.com
Prison break
2 9 7 8 a
Hot or Cold , quality air is expensive.
summer - air conditioning + dehumidifier + ionizer.
winter - anything (but not gas)
Insulate the shxt out of the place, if the space you need is not large enough for you after insulating, Expand.
Always Ventilate *
(don't forget the ionizer)
summer - air conditioning + dehumidifier + ionizer.
winter - anything (but not gas)
Insulate the shxt out of the place, if the space you need is not large enough for you after insulating, Expand.
Always Ventilate *
(don't forget the ionizer)
Lots of homes are built with ducts into the garage. It is the least expensive alternative up front.
Most people lose interest in going to practice in the basement and garage after about a month, why spend thousands of dollars and then wish you didn't.
If you love it and spend lots of time out there , you can always upgrade, but if you downgrade, your still out your money.
Because the ducts would be able to pull carbon monoxide into your house from cars, hot water heater, etc. Understood that the owner takes responsibility if they want to ignore code. It can be done just saying a reputable company will not extend the household ductwork. It will have to be reversed if selling the house. Homeowners insurance will not cover mishaps not done by code.
I'd look into before doing ..... Not saying I'm correct only saying I went through this. Please research before doing.
Prison break
2 9 7 8 a
consider a "Sunken Floor"
drop down 2 to 3 feet, or......always regret not doing it
drop down 2 to 3 feet, or......always regret not doing it
Prison break
2 9 7 8 a
I just tell them "it was there when I moved in"
never had any trouble
Sometimes when house is for sale it can come up.... in disclosure or by inspector. It can be flamed at that time The seller leaves themself open. I'm only stating a reasonable variable.
I moved a pole in the basement to accommodate a 9'. No permit...but Will disclose or have it reversed...unless buyer agrees to accept it.