Heavy vs. Light Break Cue

Zphix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Another thread prompted me to ask a question related to this topic; I'm a proponent of lighter break cues first and foremost unless the heavier cue is rear weighted and the cue feels weightless at my natural grip (Big Bellugah 2 is an example).

Anyway, we all know that F= MA so, does anybody find that a lighter cue requiring more acceleration affects accuracy in hitting the rack square?

We can talk cue weight all day but none of it matters if you don't hit the rack accurately. So, how do different weights and acceleration combinations affect breaking accuracy?
 
im on board the light break cue side now


light cues all around actually, but a light break cue works for me,


not at all does it affect me hitting it as dead on as i can
 
I like my break cue to be around the same as my playing cue, 19.2oz is what I'm using now. Works for me and feels natural.

I would go lighter before I go heavier though, and I don't like the idea of the super heavy break cues some people seem to prefer. However, I've admittedly never tried one.
 
Up until I got my cue refinished a couple years ago, I broke and played with the same cue and it is 21 ounce. Now it is too pretty to play with, so I use a different cue for playing and another for breaking and both are around 19.5 ounces.

The lighter cue gives me more hand speed and I think it is a bit easier to control if you really, really, really try to wallop the balls on the break.
 
As this debate is so highly subjective, we can only offer personal preferences and opinions. For me, trying to maximize speed (regardless of cue weight) magnifies stroke flaws and gives varying results. I've found that I can maintain control up to about a 20 mph break (as measured with the iPhone app) with each break cue I've tried, regardless of weight. My current break cue is around 25oz (a Players j/b with a second weight bolt added) and has been consistently better for me than others I've tried.

The body mechanics of individuals probably dictate what's right for an individual. Some folks are motorcycles (very fast with low payload) while others, like me, are UPS trucks (slow with large payload).
 
Another thread prompted me to ask a question related to this topic; I'm a proponent of lighter break cues first and foremost unless the heavier cue is rear weighted and the cue feels weightless at my natural grip (Big Bellugah 2 is an example).

Anyway, we all know that F= MA so, does anybody find that a lighter cue requiring more acceleration affects accuracy in hitting the rack square?

We can talk cue weight all day but none of it matters if you don't hit the rack accurately. So, how do different weights and acceleration combinations affect breaking accuracy?
The optimal break cue weight (for both power and accuracy) depends on many factors and is a very "individual" thing. For more info, see info and articles here:

optimal cue weight resource page

Enjoy,
Dave
 
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Another thread prompted me to ask a question related to this topic; I'm a proponent of lighter break cues first and foremost unless the heavier cue is rear weighted and the cue feels weightless at my natural grip (Big Bellugah 2 is an example).

Anyway, we all know that F= MA so, does anybody find that a lighter cue requiring more acceleration affects accuracy in hitting the rack square?

We can talk cue weight all day but none of it matters if you don't hit the rack accurately. So, how do different weights and acceleration combinations affect breaking accuracy?

F=MA is true, however Kinetic Energy is 1/2mv^2 is also true. That energy is what the cue delivers to the CB and the CB delivers to the rack.

If you have a faster break speed you have a faster cueball speed and you transfer more energy into the rack. Assuming you hit the CB square and the CB hits the rack square.

In most cases, you can swing a lighter cue faster than a heavier cue. But you can only swing so fast. So you want to find the heaviest cue that you can swing close to your maximum speed and control well.

All the numbers below are made up. If you want to actually do the physics it has to be converted to m/s.

For example, say you can swing your empty hand at 20 miles an hour. You can probably swing a 12 oz cue at very close to that same 20 mph. But when you start getting up to 18+ oz Maybe you can swing 18 oz still at 20 mph but when you go to a 21 oz cue you can only swing at 18.8 mph. Maybe a 19.5 oz cue you can swing at 19.6 mph. That might be the sweet spot for you.

Another person might have a top empty swing speed of 25 mph. But their speed at 18 might be 20 mph. Maybe they can get 24.5 with a 16.5 oz break cue and that might be the sweet spot for them.

In general, if you are a quick person you'll want a light cue. If you are a strong person you'll want a heavier cue.
 
I did an extremely unscientific seat of the pants with a little high tech help experiment called "Measuremans great Break Cue Experiment".
With the help of a break cue app on my cell phone I tried a number of breaks with my break cue at its normal weight of 19oz then I removed the 3 oz weight bolt and for those of you in Loma Linda that makes the cue 16oz.
I saw a gain of about 1 MPH with the lighter weight.
I have no idea if 1 MPH changes the break very much. But the lighter weight just feels better to me.
 
I did an extremely unscientific seat of the pants with a little high tech help experiment called "Measuremans great Break Cue Experiment".
With the help of a break cue app on my cell phone I tried a number of breaks with my break cue at its normal weight of 19oz then I removed the 3 oz weight bolt and for those of you in Loma Linda that makes the cue 16oz.
I saw a gain of about 1 MPH with the lighter weight.
I have no idea if 1 MPH changes the break very much. But the lighter weight just feels better to me.
That's the best way to figure out what is best for a specific individual. Try different weights to see what feels and works best. If a weight change doesn't result in much change in break effectiveness (which is actually fairly common), then just use what "feels" best.

Regards,
Dave
 
Another thread prompted me to ask a question related to this topic; I'm a proponent of lighter break cues first and foremost unless the heavier cue is rear weighted and the cue feels weightless at my natural grip (Big Bellugah 2 is an example).

Anyway, we all know that F= MA so, does anybody find that a lighter cue requiring more acceleration affects accuracy in hitting the rack square?

We can talk cue weight all day but none of it matters if you don't hit the rack accurately. So, how do different weights and acceleration combinations affect breaking accuracy?


I break with my play cue so I don't think about it.
But when I do break with a break cue I like the heavier ones.
20.5 to 21 oz is what I like.
FOR ME that works best and I don't swing it at any less speed vs. a much lighter cue however it feels very stable and solid in my hand.
I'm sure a machine would be able to technically swing a lighter cue faster but I'm not a test machine and I prefer the breaks I get with those heavier break cues. Just everything feels very solid.
All that being said I still much prefer my play cue, but that's mostly because of the control I get vs a break cue.
 
I appreciate the response so far, guys.

For those saying it's more "feel," I agree. I prefer lighter cues - but, I'm open minded as well. If somebody could show that a heavier break cue with less acceleration/velocity decreases stroke errors or adds any benefit then I'd consider giving it a try.

The reason I even care about this at all is that my girlfriend has a Big Bellugah 2 breaker and it's much heavier than what I prefer (it's over 21 oz for sure) but it's so rear weighted that it feels almost weightless where I grip and I prefer it over my own break cue which is lighter but has the same tip/ferrule set up.

I'd like to hear more response though and get more of a varied input from people. Rock on everybody!
 
I definitely want a heavy shafts and very forward weighted break cue.

F=MA is true, however Kinetic Energy is 1/2mv^2 is also true. That energy is what the cue delivers to the CB and the CB delivers to the rack.

If you have a faster break speed you have a faster cueball speed and you transfer more energy into the rack. Assuming you hit the CB square and the CB hits the rack square.

In most cases, you can swing a lighter cue faster than a heavier cue. But you can only swing so fast. So you want to find the heaviest cue that you can swing close to your maximum speed and control well.

All the numbers below are made up. If you want to actually do the physics it has to be converted to m/s.

For example, say you can swing your empty hand at 20 miles an hour. You can probably swing a 12 oz cue at very close to that same 20 mph. But when you start getting up to 18+ oz Maybe you can swing 18 oz still at 20 mph but when you go to a 21 oz cue you can only swing at 18.8 mph. Maybe a 19.5 oz cue you can swing at 19.6 mph. That might be the sweet spot for you.

Another person might have a top empty swing speed of 25 mph. But their speed at 18 might be 20 mph. Maybe they can get 24.5 with a 16.5 oz break cue and that might be the sweet spot for them.

In general, if you are a quick person you'll want a light cue. If you are a strong person you'll want a heavier cue.

I found this response interesting.

I have used everything from 18 ox to 22 oz in half oz increments....
...they all seemed to be the right weight for me at the time.
I think your capabilities change....sometimes day to day.

I did buy a 25oz and tried a 26 oz....they didn't work for me.
....and I much prefer a hard leather tip over phenolic.
And I think a shaft should be a bit whippy....the stiff shafts of a B/J cue hurts my break.
 
Historically I've used 18-19oz break cues and playing cues. I would agree that the shaft should have some flex but not too much as to lose power. I think 19oz is a good balance between weight and ability to get your hand moving quickly while breaking hard.

I think my favorite break cues have been Predator BK2, Poison VX3 and Jacoby Edge.

I really disliked the BK3 because of the feeling of flex at the joint or dymondwood cue/shaft combo being poorly balanced and way too inaccurate.
 
I did an extremely unscientific seat of the pants with a little high tech help experiment called "Measuremans great Break Cue Experiment".
With the help of a break cue app on my cell phone I tried a number of breaks with my break cue at its normal weight of 19oz then I removed the 3 oz weight bolt and for those of you in Loma Linda that makes the cue 16oz.
I saw a gain of about 1 MPH with the lighter weight.
I have no idea if 1 MPH changes the break very much. But the lighter weight just feels better to me.

I just remembered that my break cue shaft is 14MM.
I wonder if that makes it too stiff?
Less flex=less speed?
 
I just remembered that my break cue shaft is 14MM.
I wonder if that makes it too stiff?
Less flex=less speed?
I know that I had bought a PureX break jump and it jumped very well but I remember there being no feel like the cue was dead when breaking with it. Sold it to a friend who liked it pretty quickly but he didn't break like I do.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
I think my favorite break cues have been Predator BK2, Poison VX3 and Jacoby Edge.

I really disliked the BK3 because of the feeling of flex at the joint or dymondwood cue/shaft combo being poorly balanced and way too inaccurate.


I agree.
Much prefer BK2 over the BK3.
That being said the Predators, any of them, don't have diamond wood.
 
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