Help with value of Tim Scruggs cue

One of life mistake was not buying a basic Scruggs 4 pointer Tim has F/S on website, NEW, Two Shaft, Ivory Joint, 4 Point, 4 Veeneers , Price was like 1250ish.🤔
 
I contemplated grabbing this cue awhile ago. Glad an AZer snagged it up! She's a beauty. Can't go wrong with Scruggs. The two best cues I've ever played with were a Coco jointed and Ivory jointed Scruggs.
 
The joint is not sleeved. Whoever cleaned the shafts cleaned away the tell tail blending that Tim did. That is how I identify his work as being original. Kind of like cleaning a old gun. Leather would be no big deal. The short points usually are far less sought after. They play great.
The finish is wrong. That too is something collectors like or hate. Tim and Bob built many of Ivory joint veneer cues, It is a nice old cue. That is a very popular set up.
Enjoy,
Nick
 
Ok guys the story of this cue has taken a interesting twist... So I had a different lien wrap installed and when we took off the old linen wrap there was a name and date wrote in pencil. We think the name says " Engrave Farrington" and the date says 2-12-82...I talked to bill about it and he said he think it may be a collectors name because he had the same name on a old Scruggs years ago. So did Tim Scruggs write that so he knew who's cue it was because he was making so many cues? 🤷
 

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Ok guys the story of this cue has taken a interesting twist... So I had a different lien wrap installed and when we took off the old linen wrap there was a name and date wrote in pencil. We think the name says " Engrave Farrington" and the date says 2-12-82...I talked to bill about it and he said he think it may be a collectors name because he had the same name on a old Scruggs years ago. could it be possible that this was wrote by Tim Scruggs himself so he knew who's cue it was because he was making so many cues 🤷 if it was write by Scruggs should I showcase it and just leave the linen off the cue and finish it without a wrap so you can see the writing? I think that would look pretty cool in my opinion.. I attached pics
lots of cumakers do that. just take a pic of it and put on the wrap. that name isn't going to increase value.
 
Here is what the cue looks like now...1982 Scruggs big pin 3/8 x 10 ivory joint and Ferrule.
East Indian rosewood with dark chocolate leather wrap
 

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Changing the wrap is a big mistake. If it was a production cue and there were more coming it wouldn’t be a issue. But there’s not.

The fact you paid a hair too much is a moot issue, I’ve over paid, over charged for cues. That’s not anything important and time will cure that. Not important

That wrap is important, please leave it be. Grab another cue to modify.

It’s pretty well known here that I have a big collection of cues and I only mention it cause you said your new. Does that make me a expert? No. Means I spent more than most on cues. I’ve been into cues for almost 40 years, that means I do know what I’m talking about. Let the wrap alone. You’ll understand why in 5 years

Welcome and best of luck

Enjoy
Fatboy😀😀
 
Thanks for the input.. the only reason I changed it is because the guy told me it was not the original wrap...it was white with lime green specs in the linen.. maybe he was wrong? I mean he is a cue maker and had his hands on it and said it wasn't original but he no Scruggs expert either...so was the wrap original?
 
lots of cumakers do that. just take a pic of it and put on the wrap. that name isn't going to increase value.
Every cue I’ve had made had my name penciled on the wood by the cue maker the moment he pulled stock.
It avoids getting confused because when you start a cue, there will be many different construction phases.
You want to be able to recognize any cue underway and be absolutely certain you have the right cue when
you start performing inlays, veneers, etc. cue makers cannot afford to make a dumb mistake and start over.
Having your name anywhere on the cue limits it’s value unless you are a widely recognized name or talent.
 
Great looking cue. Im also not crazy about the light color wraps. But its sharp looking nonetheless. Also, have seen some of his cues up there in price, so Id say its pretty close to a fair deal
 
Great looking cue. Im also not crazy about the light color wraps. But its sharp looking nonetheless. Also, have seen some of his cues up there in price, so Id say its pretty close to a fair deal
I'm a big fan of white with green spec wraps - I love old school style.

The problem is that if you play with it, it doesn't stay white with green spec. It gets to be a gross gold color.

To the OP - the cue looks great, and I hope you enjoy playing with it.
 
I'm a big fan of white with green spec wraps - I love old school style.

The problem is that if you play with it, it doesn't stay white with green spec. It gets to be a gross gold color.

To the OP - the cue looks great, and I hope you enjoy playing with it.
I disagree, not if you maintain the wraps. The youngest Cortland linen wrap in the photos is six years old
and the oldest Cortland wrap is almost 37 years old. The wraps should last a lifetime if properly cared for.
My experience has been really good but I’m also very meticulous about the maintenance of my pool cues.
 

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I disagree, not if you maintain the wraps. The youngest Cortland linen wrap in the photos is six years old
and the oldest Cortland wrap is almost 37 years old. The wraps should last a lifetime if properly cared for.
My experience has been really good but I’m also very meticulous about the maintenance of my pool cues.
How do you keep em so pristine? What's the routine?
 
Post #18 describes in detail what I do. Bob Runde and I discussed how to care for my cue.

We did it in person at the Inaugural BCA Trade Show in Forth Worth, TX. He explained what
I should do to maintain my cue shafts, i.e., repairs for nicks, scratches, etc. and the Cortland
linen wrap. I was concerned about discolor from sweaty hands, etc. He showed me what to
do and I’ve been telling folks about this on Az for years. The key is to don’t let the wrap get so
dirty you’d need something more than a warm, damp cloth. And you should always wipe and
rub the wrap in a circular motion in the same direction as the wrap was spun on the cue butt.

And glass burnishing is something the more often you do it, the better the wrap feels. I do it to
my cues regularly and all you need is a towel and a heavy round glass. Do not use hot air to dry
your wrap. Use a good towel and let dry naturally. It will be quick and then go tire your arm out.
The results are incontrovertible if you personally examined the Cortland #9 wraps on my cues.
 
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