Honduran Rosewood Burl
- Thread starter JC
- Start date
I would not touch it unless it's been stabilized .
Gorgeous work Larry!
Barenbrugge has used HRB maybe more than any other builder. I recall him talking about the importing process in here.
Bob detailed a build using some superb material, not stabilized.
http://dzcues.com/hrb.html
Like any other wood, how green/seasoned is it? Do you have experience dealing with burls? How solid was the piece to begin with?
Bob detailed a build using some superb material, not stabilized.
http://dzcues.com/hrb.html
Like any other wood, how green/seasoned is it? Do you have experience dealing with burls? How solid was the piece to begin with?
JC
Coos Cues
These are the things I don't know. The gentleman I am building a cue for saw it for sale on facebook and asked my opinion and since I don't know I phoned a friend (Or several). I have built a few cues with various burls stabilized and not. Mostly for handle wood. My building process is very conducive to using wood with voids, cracks etc. But have not seen this material in person.
After reading this thread I think it's not a good idea to spend big money on unknown wood from an unknown source. Actually I have always leaned this way.
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Shrinkage is always a concern to me . Stabilized burls will likely never shrink on you.
That's what she said.
That's what she said.
IMO.....you are wasting your time and $ trying any stabilizing procedure on this burl. HRB is a true rosewood and does not need to be stabilized.
Definitely needs to be dry and cored tho. As far as whether it's dry or not is a whole different ball game. Legal burls have been illegal to hunt and acquire since around the late 80's if I remember correctly. So if you know your source they should be relatively dry. That being said, "dry" is a relative term. They could still carry a MC of as high as 15-20% depending how long they have been cut into usable pieces for cues.
My suggestion would be turn it round to about 1.375...blow a small hole (.say .650ish) thru it and leave it sit around your shop for a minimum of a 1-2 years. Weigh it after it's turned round and you've poked a hole in it. Weigh it again after 6 month and a year...see where it's headed.
If it comes with any wax on....scrap the wax off and leave it sit somewhere that air can circulate around it for a few years before you even start the aforementioned hole poking procedure.
Time times listed above are bare minimums. Joey is correct and if the above isn't followed you'll have a good chance of shrinkage after the build is complete.
It's a beautiful thing when properly done.
Big burl heaven !
Definitely needs to be dry and cored tho. As far as whether it's dry or not is a whole different ball game. Legal burls have been illegal to hunt and acquire since around the late 80's if I remember correctly. So if you know your source they should be relatively dry. That being said, "dry" is a relative term. They could still carry a MC of as high as 15-20% depending how long they have been cut into usable pieces for cues.
My suggestion would be turn it round to about 1.375...blow a small hole (.say .650ish) thru it and leave it sit around your shop for a minimum of a 1-2 years. Weigh it after it's turned round and you've poked a hole in it. Weigh it again after 6 month and a year...see where it's headed.
If it comes with any wax on....scrap the wax off and leave it sit somewhere that air can circulate around it for a few years before you even start the aforementioned hole poking procedure.
Time times listed above are bare minimums. Joey is correct and if the above isn't followed you'll have a good chance of shrinkage after the build is complete.
It's a beautiful thing when properly done.
Big burl heaven !
Still the wildest ring-work in the business!IMO.....you are wasting your time and $ trying any stabilizing procedure on this burl. HRB is a true rosewood and does not need to be stabilized.
Definitely needs to be dry and cored tho. As far as whether it's dry or not is a whole different ball game. Legal burls have been illegal to hunt and acquire since around the late 80's if I remember correctly. So if you know your source they should be relatively dry. That being said, "dry" is a relative term. They could still carry a MC of as high as 15-20% depending how long they have been cut into usable pieces for cues.
My suggestion would be turn it round to about 1.375...blow a small hole (.say .650ish) thru it and leave it sit around your shop for a minimum of a 1-2 years. Weigh it after it's turned round and you've poked a hole in it. Weigh it again after 6 month and a year...see where it's headed.
If it comes with any wax on....scrap the wax off and leave it sit somewhere that air can circulate around it for a few years before you even start the aforementioned hole poking procedure.
Time times listed above are bare minimums. Joey is correct and if the above isn't followed you'll have a good chance of shrinkage after the build is complete.
It's a beautiful thing when properly done.
Big burl heaven !
