How are you going to play this?

Rod

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This shot come up for me during a match. Notice the one is almost straight in. If I could get position on the two the run looks fairly simple. I don't know as the balls were positioned exactly like this but it serves to illustrate near the same example. What did I do? OOPS I erased the wei code.

Rod
 

Attachments

  • position.JPG
    position.JPG
    16.9 KB · Views: 247
Rodd said:
This shot come up for me during a match. Notice the one is almost straight in. If I could get position on the two the run looks fairly simple. I don't know as the balls were positioned exactly like this but it serves to illustrate near the same example. What did I do? OOPS I erased the wei code.

Rod
If the shot was a little shorter, Lou Butera would shoot the masse shot. Does your solution involve the third dimension?
 
You could stroke it with low right and spin off the rail between the 5-6 and 4-9 for shape on the 2. I may shoot that there, I like that shot and my chances of getting out from there.

There is also a nice safety by stunning the cueball off the 1 aiming it at the long rail so that the cueball comes back a touch and freezes on the 7 and the 1 ball comes across and sits near that same pocket where the 7 is, now hooked. The shot is a pretty safe shot because even if you miss the hook the 3 stops the 1 from going down the rail, it is fairly easy to weld the cueball to the 7 there and if you do the hook is almost a sure thing.

That being said I probably play the bottom right shot and if it does not pan out with the good shot on the 2 for some reason I will play the safe from there.
 
Last edited:
Bob Jewett said:
If the shot was a little shorter, Lou Butera would shoot the masse shot. Does your solution involve the third dimension?

Bob Jewett said:
If the shot was a little shorter, Lou Butera would shoot the masse shot. Does your solution involve the third dimension?

If I understand the term it's not required, however it may have come into play as it didn't come off exactly as planned. Care to define, I'm no physics major. LOL I do understand what happened and why. I use a variation of this shot sometimes.

Rod
 
Rodd, though there are masse options here, I think a powerful draw stroke with maximum right hand english is your best shot.

Another approach is to carom in the seven by drawing into it off the one, but the subsequent shape on the one looks very iffy. A third approach is to bank the one into the seven to pocket the seven. It would be tough to make the shot, but chances for shape on the one would be good on a make. A fourth aproach is to cheat the pocket and follow two rails with maximum left hand english to leave the cue ball near diamond five (above, not below the side pocket), accepting a very missable, but very makeable two ball (similarly a two railer with left hand stun follow could possibly produce the same result.)

Yup, power draw with maximum right looks like the best chance, as even if you don't quite get there, you'll likely have, at very least,a rail first shot on the two and a chance to complete the runout. Still, I think many would just accept the more passive two rail inside english follow to ensure a shot at the two.
 
Last edited:
Bob Jewett said:
If the shot was a little shorter, Lou Butera would shoot the masse shot. Does your solution involve the third dimension?

I know the shot, it seems to defy the tangent line entirely. My friend calls this shot a "warp shot".

Short explanation: If the object ball is close to the cueball, you can shoot a masse in a way that the masse effect (spin) takes place after hitting the object ball. If you are straight on your object ball, you can get your cueball moving sideways or you can use it in the following examplatory wei table situation with a slight angle on the object ball:

Easiest way to clear these 3 three balls without letting the cueball fly around the table is to masse the cueball back to the short cushion for the 8-ball & run out. Very useful if you dare to use it in a tough match:

START(
%GD6L7%HC9S1%IE3Q3%PD3O1%WC6D9%XD7K8%eA3a5%_D6L9%`E9M2%aD7M8

)END
 
Using the wei setting these up makes them look different. It's not to proportion you get the idea but a slight move changes the shot appearance completely. I think the 9 egg table does a better job.

At any rate if anything the one has a little more angle but very slight. If I move it to much it changes everything so this is the effect I wanted to show.

No masse and a power draw as sjm suggested would have been to fat into the 7. Take a couple of pops and I'll reply later.

Rod
 
If the 1 is straight in, the power draw with right hand english would work. The masse is also an option, elevate the cue and hit extreme left and when the CB hits the 1, it takes off straight up table for the 2...................if you hit it good.LOL. Other than those 2 options, you could play safe on the 2.
 
Rodd said:
This shot come up for me during a match. Notice the one is almost straight in. If I could get position on the two the run looks fairly simple. I don't know as the balls were positioned exactly like this but it serves to illustrate near the same example. What did I do? OOPS I erased the wei code.
Rod

I would try high, left english and try to spin the ball off the top rail, in between the 8 and 6 with enough speed to get down for a decent shot at the 2.

Was that possible from the position you had?
 
Thanks for the replies. Low right sure didn't look like an option, as I said I'd hit the 7 fat. I might have a long shot afterwards but that's to iffy. Getting to or past center table as Joe suggests is a good idea but my angle to force the ball there wasn't good. I know I could have left a longer shot on the two.

JDB says top left and I thought about that one. The problem is with a level firm stroke the c/b goes forward to fast and avoiding the 8 or 6 would have been a problem. I have a cure for that another time but in this case I didn't like that option as well. Reason being I could bounce the c/b off the table.

Which brings me to what I did and why. The score was about even part way through a low dollar match. The cloth was used which had some bearing on the shot. Now low is a good option but not low right. I've shot this and variations many times so that had a big factor on my decision. I used low inside. I had to be careful not to use to much low but that backfired a bit. Low wants to bring the ball back and inside wants to make it go forward when whitey hits the rail. They fight each other and cancel each other out so to speak. That increases cue ball speed.

In the end With a little to much draw the c/b hit before the side pocket rolling down as shown. I wanted less low to hit the rail after the side pocket. It worked but left a thinner makeable cut. From there go back to the head rail and come back out to center table.

I'm sure you guys must have shot some form of this. It works well in some situations. If not give it a try. I use it on straight shots to create more angle even if it just touches a rail. Ok thanks, here is wei picture.

Oh I should add I didn't save the wei code so placement is appx.

Rod
 

Attachments

  • position.JPG
    position.JPG
    21.8 KB · Views: 174
Last edited:
Rodd said:
Thanks for the replies. Low right sure didn't look like an option, as I said I'd hit the 7 fat. I might have a long shot afterwards but that's to iffy. Getting to or past center table as Joe suggests is a good idea but my angle to force the ball there wasn't good. I know I could have left a longer shot on the two.

JDB says top left and I thought about that one. The problem is with a level firm stroke the c/b goes forward to fast and avoiding the 8 or 6 would have been a problem. I have a cure for that another time but in this case I didn't like that option as well. Reason being I could bounce the c/b off the table.

Which brings me to what I did and why. The score was about even part way through a low dollar match. The cloth was used which had some bearing on the shot. Now low is a good option but not low right. I've shot this and variations many times so that had a big factor on my decision. I used low inside. I had to be careful not to use to much low but that backfired a bit. Low wants to bring the ball back and inside wants to make it go forward when whitey hits the rail. They fight each other and cancel each other out so to speak. That increases cue ball speed.

In the end With a little to much draw the c/b hit before the side pocket rolling down as shown. I wanted less low to hit the rail after the side pocket. It worked but left a thinner makeable cut. From there go back to the head rail and come back out to center table.

I'm sure you guys must have shot some form of this. It works well in some situations. If not give it a try. I use it on straight shots to create more angle even if it just touches a rail. Ok thanks, here is wei picture.

Oh I should add I didn't save the wei code so placement is appx.

Rod

I think this is about my eyesight, Rod. To me, and I suspect to some others, the shot looked dead straight. If it was, the power draw with maximum right english gets you to the two. I assumed that the draw would go to the long rail first. If you actually had some angle, then the seven was a problem, and, in that case, I prefer what you did.
 
sjm said:
I think this is about my eyesight, Rod. To me, and I suspect to some others, the shot looked dead straight. If it was, the power draw with maximum right english gets you to the two. I assumed that the draw would go to the long rail first. If you actually had some angle, then the seven was a problem, and, in that case, I prefer what you did.

From the way I saw it, the draw (straight or right) would hit the seven very full, which would most likely not go down table as desired.
 
Jeez I thought my eyes were bad, I'm cured! LOL Really I see a definite angle. I mentioned earlier the 9 egg table is closer to scale. The balls are a little smaller for one thing, on the wei it sometimes creates an illusion. If I give it more angle then it looks like a simple cut persay.

I usually use the arrows so I can see the angle better but in this case I didn't save or include the code. Sorry about that.

Rod
 
Back
Top