how come more cuemakers don't do wood threads?

evergruven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm using a cheap carom cue now and I really like the feel of the wood threads
the feel of the cue is nice and tight, I don't have to keep it clean (so far)
it just looks and feels really good overall, so I'm wondering
I don't know a lot about all the different cuemakers
but it seems like not many do wood threads
just wondering why not..thanks
 
I'm using a cheap carom cue now and I really like the feel of the wood threads
the feel of the cue is nice and tight, I don't have to keep it clean (so far)
it just looks and feels really good overall, so I'm wondering
I don't know a lot about all the different cuemakers
but it seems like not many do wood threads
just wondering why not..thanks
I bought a chinese break/jump cue many years ago with cool wooden threads at the shaft joint that screwed into the handle. It broke in half breaking the balls one day and I didn't forget it.
 
I'm using a cheap carom cue now and I really like the feel of the wood threads
the feel of the cue is nice and tight, I don't have to keep it clean (so far)
it just looks and feels really good overall, so I'm wondering
I don't know a lot about all the different cuemakers
but it seems like not many do wood threads
just wondering why not..thanks

I have a Barracuda Snooker ash cue with an all wood joint. Plays smooth like butter. It’s as good as new after a few decades. Even use it to break In
American Pool.

Im not a fine woodworker but likely easier to insert metal joints.

302A6E35-C98C-4252-AC78-F29C55A13EEA.jpeg
 
I bought a chinese break/jump cue many years ago with cool wooden threads at the shaft joint that screwed into the handle. It broke in half breaking the balls one day and I didn't forget it.
that would sour me on the idea, too ^_^
so far I like the wood threads tho

I have a Barracuda Snooker ash cue with an all wood joint. Plays smooth like butter. It’s as good as new after a few decades. Even use it to break In
American Pool.

Im not a fine woodworker but likely easier to insert metal joints.
that cue looks like a beast!
never heard of a snooker cue with wood threads
but there's a lot I haven't heard of..looks neat tho

was also thinking ease of install is a reason

The wood Joint pin is a weak spot, I've seen a few broken carom Cues.
interesting..has it snapped where the pin meets the cue, or in the middle of the thread?

thanks all for the replies
 
Wooden threads........
Not talked much about on here.
Two things I've learned from making wooden threaded cues.
If you're building an equal split cue say 29-29, a lot of cases don't have long enough interiors to hold a 31 inch shaft.
second thing....most threaded pins are engineered what I would consider to be wrong. The wooden pins should be made separate and installed in the shaft or butt whichever side is prefered. If the wooden pin is cut from the same wood as an extension of the shaft, it will not be as strong as an added pin.
 
Wooden threads........
Not talked much about on here.
Two things I've learned from making wooden threaded cues.
If you're building an equal split cue say 29-29, a lot of cases don't have long enough interiors to hold a 31 inch shaft.
second thing....most threaded pins are engineered what I would consider to be wrong. The wooden pins should be made separate and installed in the shaft or butt whichever side is prefered. If the wooden pin is cut from the same wood as an extension of the shaft, it will not be as strong as an added pin.
thanks for the reply. email sent.
 
Wooden threads........
Not talked much about on here.
Two things I've learned from making wooden threaded cues.
If you're building an equal split cue say 29-29, a lot of cases don't have long enough interiors to hold a 31 inch shaft.
second thing....most threaded pins are engineered what I would consider to be wrong. The wooden pins should be made separate and installed in the shaft or butt whichever side is prefered. If the wooden pin is cut from the same wood as an extension of the shaft, it will not be as strong as an added pin.
You make some good points and Chuck Starkey builds them the way you suggested.
 
Richard Helmstetter made carom cues with wooden pins for years. I play pool with them whenever I have one. I can't imagine being able to hurt the pin. They are very strong. Is a hole in wood filled with metal stronger than wood turned into a tenon? I don't know. But a good old C.C.S Helmstetter is rock solid. I've never heard of one of the pins breaking.
 
Problem with them is uniformity or consistency from piece to piece .
Manufactured screws are within .002" easily from the best makers .
Try that with wood .
 
Wooden threads........
Not talked much about on here.
Two things I've learned from making wooden threaded cues.
If you're building an equal split cue say 29-29, a lot of cases don't have long enough interiors to hold a 31 inch shaft.
second thing....most threaded pins are engineered what I would consider to be wrong. The wooden pins should be made separate and installed in the shaft or butt whichever side is prefered. If the wooden pin is cut from the same wood as an extension of the shaft, it will not be as strong as an added pin.
I don't claim to know a lot about cue construction but I do have considerable experience with bolted joints and how they can fail. Of course theory sometimes doesn't entirely pan out in real world applications.

Just a comment, hoping you'll get my mind right if it needs it.
It seems to me that once the cue is screwed together, the strength of the assembly comes from the mated surfaces, and the pin is only creating and maintaining a required clamping force. If clamp is achieved and there's a failure, the cause comes from the 2 surfaces not mating properly. In other words,full contact, across the entire surface of both parts.

BTW, your buddy DD agreed with you, its a stronger design if you insert a pin. He just hated going through the extra steps. Didn't enjoy shaft work in general.
 
I
I don't claim to know a lot about cue construction but I do have considerable experience with bolted joints and how they can fail. Of course theory sometimes doesn't entirely pan out in real world applications.

Just a comment, hoping you'll get my mind right if it needs it.
It seems to me that once the cue is screwed together, the strength of the assembly comes from the mated surfaces, and the pin is only creating and maintaining a required clamping force. If clamp is achieved and there's a failure, the cause comes from the 2 surfaces not mating properly. In other words,full contact, across the entire surface of both parts.

BTW, your buddy DD agreed with you, its a stronger design if you insert a pin. He just hated going through the extra steps. Didn't enjoy shaft work in general.
I don't really disagree with your argument, but it has a fatal flaw. Your argument makes the assumption that the players treat their equipment well. Which any cue maker will tell you that a certain percentage of players absolutely don't. So a fragile design will always fail before a more rugged design.
 
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