How do I keep my cue ball from killing a observer when I break?

When breaking from any position on the table the stroke used is the same, and the basic fundamentals of focus and follow through must be followed.

Most people who have the problem you have outlined, tend to hit the cue ball above center during their break shot which is not correct for breaking from any position. First, of all remember, the perfect break in eight ball or nine ball consists, of making a ball on the break, and moving you cue ball back out to the center of table some where between the side pockets preferable. In addition to this, no balls should be frozen to another ball or a rail.

Keeping the above in mind, it makes sense then that when breaking the cue ball must be struck below its center. Many people use a little low right or low left English on the break shot depending upon where you are breaking from. This will force the cue ball into a side rail and back out into the center of the table, where it is most likely you will have another shot if you make a ball on the break.

If you are continually jumping the cue ball off the table on the break, you are hitting the cue ball above center. When breaking by hitting the cue ball above center two things happen and neither is good!!!

First the cue ball will go behind the rack which very dangerous, because of kisses off other balls into a corner pocket. Also you completely lose control of the cue ball for the same reason during this type of break shot.

Next, the reason that the cue ball jumps off the table on above center ball breaks is the same reason it jumps during a jump shot. Many people who have your problem tend to shoot with the butt of their cue elevated, so that when contact is made the cue ball leaves the table. Now you may not see it, however, due to the initial hop the ball continues to graze the cloth until it hits the rack. Upon contact with the rack, if the rack is hit dead center, the cue ball will jump straight up in the air. However, if the cue ball hits the rack off center, during hits hop it will jump straight off the table in the direction of deflection from the rack. When breaking, the cue ball should be struck with your cue as level as possible. Always start your stroke with the cue tip within a quarter inch of the cue ball if not closer. Insure that your back shoulder is in line with your shot, the back arm should be bent at the elbow and hanging straight up and down. The only movement in your back arm should be from the elbow down in a pendulum motion, back and forth. You can look at your cue in comparison to rail to see if you are level to the table. When making adjustments for the hit on the cue ball they are never made by raising or lowering the butt of the cue. They are however, made by raising or lowering your bridge hand, the back arm makes adjustments to your bridge hand to keep you level and nothing else.

Now that you are level, and starting your stroke at the ball you bring the tip of your cue back to your fingers and back to the cue ball. The farther you pull back to your fingers on your stroke the more power you will have. This is not due to how strong your you, it is however, directly due to how far you follow through and how fast your follow through is. Whenever strength is supplemented for pure straight and fast follow through your ability to break the balls will decrease, and you will not have any control during your break. This is because you will tend to steer the cue ball to its target, and this will cause you to miss your intended target. When stroking the break shot or any shot for that matter, your palm should never touch the cue stick. The cue stick should only be lightly gripped with the thumb and index finger. In most cases your other three fingers are only a rest for cue and play no part in your stroke, other than over all stability. Another important factor to consider when stroking any shot, is your mussel tension. For your stroke to be fluid, rhythmic, and true your body must remain loose(no mussel tension) and your stroke must be fast, fluid and pronounced.

Last of all, during your break shot you can choose to look at the cue ball or the object ball last before contact. This is the only shot that this is except able, and it may help your follow through by trying both techniques to see which one works best for you.

Good luck, I hope this helps, it will take a little practice, however results will come quickly when you begin to use the proper fundamentals.
 
Snapshot9 said:
I do not recommend breaking from the top end rail for anybody. That is just a beginner thing for people that don't know the proper breaking form or for people that have trouble making a bridge. And too many players keep on with it later on, when they should switch over to a better break place and form.

Scott...PLEASE do yourself a favor, and put IMO in front of some of your blatent comments. Breaking from the end rail is NOT a beginner thing. Pros look for a place in the kitchen where a solid break stroke results in good control, and possibly drops a ball or two. If they are breaking from the side rail, and having no success...guess what? They move the CB to somewhere else. There is nothing wrong with breaking from the end rail...unless, as you mentioned, the bridge is too long. :rolleyes: :D

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
manwon said:
When breaking from any position on the table the stroke used is the same, and the basic fundamentals of focus and follow through must be followed.

Most people who have the problem you have outlined, tend to hit the cue ball above center during their break shot which is not correct for breaking from any position. First, of all remember, the perfect break in eight ball or nine ball consists, of making a ball on the break, and moving you cue ball back out to the center of table some where between the side pockets preferable. In addition to this, no balls should be frozen to another ball or a rail.

Keeping the above in mind, it makes sense then that when breaking the cue ball must be struck below its center. Many people use a little low right or low left English on the break shot depending upon where you are breaking from. This will force the cue ball into a side rail and back out into the center of the table, where it is most likely you will have another shot if you make a ball on the break.

If you are continually jumping the cue ball off the table on the break, you are hitting the cue ball above center. When breaking by hitting the cue ball above center two things happen and neither is good!!!

First the cue ball will go behind the rack which very dangerous, because of kisses off other balls into a corner pocket. Also you completely lose control of the cue ball for the same reason during this type of break shot.

Next, the reason that the cue ball jumps off the table on above center ball breaks is the same reason it jumps during a jump shot. Many people who have your problem tend to shoot with the butt of their cue elevated, so that when contact is made the cue ball leaves the table. Now you may not see it, however, due to the initial hop the ball continues to graze the cloth until it hits the rack. Upon contact with the rack, if the rack is hit dead center, the cue ball will jump straight up in the air. However, if the cue ball hits the rack off center, during hits hop it will jump straight off the table in the direction of deflection from the rack. When breaking, the cue ball should be struck with your cue as level as possible. Always start your stroke with the cue tip within a quarter inch of the cue ball if not closer. Insure that your back shoulder is in line with your shot, the back arm should be bent at the elbow and hanging straight up and down. The only movement in your back arm should be from the elbow down in a pendulum motion, back and forth. You can look at your cue in comparison to rail to see if you are level to the table. When making adjustments for the hit on the cue ball they are never made by raising or lowering the butt of the cue. They are however, made by raising or lowering your bridge hand, the back arm makes adjustments to your bridge hand to keep you level and nothing else.

Now that you are level, and starting your stroke at the ball you bring the tip of your cue back to your fingers and back to the cue ball. The farther you pull back to your fingers on your stroke the more power you will have. This is not due to how strong your you, it is however, directly due to how far you follow through and how fast your follow through is. Whenever strength is supplemented for pure straight and fast follow through your ability to break the balls will decrease, and you will not have any control during your break. This is because you will tend to steer the cue ball to its target, and this will cause you to miss your intended target. When stroking the break shot or any shot for that matter, your palm should never touch the cue stick. The cue stick should only be lightly gripped with the thumb and index finger. In most cases your other three fingers are only a rest for cue and play no part in your stroke, other than over all stability. Another important factor to consider when stroking any shot, is your mussel tension. For your stroke to be fluid, rhythmic, and true your body must remain loose(no mussel tension) and your stroke must be fast, fluid and pronounced.

Last of all, during your break shot you can choose to look at the cue ball or the object ball last before contact. This is the only shot that this is except able, and it may help your follow through by trying both techniques to see which one works best for you.

Good luck, I hope this helps, it will take a little practice, however results will come quickly when you begin to use the proper fundamentals.


Wow, thank you for your long and detailed post, it helped more than you think. I am getting a little bit better, the cue ball stays on the table, it just seems that the rack does not spread out very well, its almost like the rack stuns the cue ball and all the force that was behind it. It breaks loud but yet it does not have the effect I want it to. Is this because I am not hitting it stright enough?
 
8-Ball Player said:
Wow, thank you for your long and detailed post, it helped more than you think. I am getting a little bit better, the cue ball stays on the table, it just seems that the rack does not spread out very well, its almost like the rack stuns the cue ball and all the force that was behind it. It breaks loud but yet it does not have the effect I want it to. Is this because I am not hitting it stright enough?

It takes practice, practice, practice. Keep at it, you'll get it. As you practice, you'll develop more speed/power. What weight cue do you break with? If you're using a 19-21 oz cue, you may want to go with something lighter for breaking, using a lighter cue will help develop more speed. But, don't let more speed get you away from controlling the cue ball.
 
OOOHH and one thing that will help is find a red circle cue ball. Get down level with the table and put the red circle smack in the center and chalk it up, see where you hit. Well any cueball with a mark on it, take a sharpie :D

Eric.
 
Pushout said:
It takes practice, practice, practice. Keep at it, you'll get it. As you practice, you'll develop more speed/power. What weight cue do you break with? If you're using a 19-21 oz cue, you may want to go with something lighter for breaking, using a lighter cue will help develop more speed. But, don't let more speed get you away from controlling the cue ball.


I use a 19oz cue, I would natually think that a heavier cue would produce a better break, guess I am wrong.
 
8-Ball Player said:
Wow, thank you for your long and detailed post, it helped more than you think. I am getting a little bit better, the cue ball stays on the table, it just seems that the rack does not spread out very well, its almost like the rack stuns the cue ball and all the force that was behind it. It breaks loud but yet it does not have the effect I want it to. Is this because I am not hitting it stright enough?

I am glad I could help. If you do not seem to have much action on break try the following.

First of all, place the cue ball as forward as possible in the kitchen. Most people do not realize it but the breaking speed the pro's are clocked at is approximately between 22 and 27 miles per hour. Now I am certain that it appears to be faster than that, however, due to the short distance from the kitchen to the rack maximum velocity can never be attained.

The closer to the rack the more power will transmitted to contact with the head ball, which in turn will create more action within the rack.

Next stand behind the cue ball look through it to your point of contact with the head ball. Then, get down behind the cue ball in the direct line you have just pictured by standing behind the cue ball. This approach should be used no matter where you choose to break from.

Next place the tip of your cue near the cue ball, and begin your warm-up strokes. Always focus on a solid contact with the head ball no matter where you are breaking from, this is very important. If you hit the head ball right or left of its center the ball will glance off and either move toward the side pocket or behind the rack where it may be kicked into a corner pocket by another ball. Remember the length of your follow through and it's speed is where power comes from not strength. Stay loose, insure that your stroke is fluid, and follow through, hitting the head ball as full as possible.

Thanks for the kind words.

Good Luck!!!!
 
Last edited:
manwon said:
I am glad I could help. If you do not seem to have much action on break try the following.

First of all, place the cue ball as forward as possible in the kitchen. Most people do not realize it but the breaking speed the pro's are clocked at is approximately between 22 and 27 miles per hour. Now I am certain that it appears to be faster than that, however, due to the short distance from the kitchen to the rack maximum velocity can never be attained.

The closer to the rack the more power will transmitted to contact with the head ball, which in turn will create more action within the rack.

Next stand behind the cue ball look through it to your point of contact with the head ball. Then, get down behind the cue ball in the direct line you have just pictured by standing behind the cue ball. This approach should be used no matter where you choose to break from.

Next place the tip of your cue near the cue ball, and begin your warm-up strokes. Always focus on a solid contact with the head ball no matter where you are breaking from, this is very important. If you hit the head ball right or left of its center the ball will glance off and either move toward the side pocket or behind the rack where it may be kicked into a corner pocket by another ball. Remember the length of your follow through and it's speed is where power comes from not strength. Stay loose, insure that your stroke is fluid, and follow through, hitting the head ball as full as possible.

Thanks for the kind words.

Good Luck!!!!


Heh, I would give you more reputation but the website wont let me. :D

Yeah, belive it or not, I tried what you said and had some great results! Some were still a little bit stale, but I had some great breaks. Thanks for you help, it is much appriciated. I have been doing well when I break stright on, but when I move it over to the side rail or inbetween,(not quite stright from the head ball) I seem to have poor results, and I dont know why. When you break from the left/right side do you hit the head ball a little on the left/right side? Ive been aiming dead on nomatter where I place it. Maybe thats my problem...

Thanks again
 
manwon said:
Most people do not realize it but the breaking speed the pro's are clocked at is approximately between 22 and 27 miles per hour.

Good to know my 26.4 wasn't too shabby after all haha.

Eric.
 
breaking hard

if you are trying to learn how to use a power break incorporating all of your body you should do it at home or when no one is around for one.also its a different stroke when you break as to when you shoot.things to remember when breaking hard is "is my cue as level as possoble?" and most important "am i going to hit the head ball solid?".some people just give up and breaking the balls super hard cause it is difficult to learn a super hard break and really its not all that neccessary.try starting at a slower speed and progress from there.also work on a snap rather than a muscled stroke.follow thru is important also.gotta go to work hope this helps.
 
27

I rack balls said:
Good to know my 26.4 wasn't too shabby after all haha.

Eric.
i broke at 27 in louisville and had a break the guy didn't have the gun right that was probally around 30.
 
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