How do you do a jump/draw shot?

[Flex]

There's a shot that I see some fellows doing, often flawlessly. I haven't a clue how to do this shot well though.

The shot is a long straight in shot maybe 6 or 7 diamonds away. The way these guys do it is more or less this: they jack up a bit on the cue ball and really pop the cue down table, it hits the object ball perfectly, spins in place for an instant and shoots backwards up table.

The cue ball is obviously jumped downtable, hits the object ball and draws quickly.

Any suggestions you have on how to perform this shot?

Flex

 

[Harvywallbanger]

A nice jump shot is aiming through the center of the cueball at about a 45 degree angle. A jump draw shot is performed at a slightly higher degree and slightly short of aiming through the center. It also helps to come down on the object ball in flight. To be honest I have gotten draw with less than a 45 degree and aiming under the inside center of the cueball. To be perfectly honest I don't know how in the hell I do it I just do it.

 

[RiverCity]

I wouldnt bother with it. Learning to draw properly will serve you much better. Focus on as level of a cue as you can get, smooth stroke and a low hit. The speed is the thing that makes it or breaks it for most people. If you can deliver the cue through the ball at whatever speed you need to, you can draw the ball the length of the table too. Lots of folks cant stroke straight and fast, its a one or the other thing. If they try to draw normal with alot of speed, their accuracy goes out the window because they are so focused on the speed they do not throw the cue in a straight line. The guys you have seen draw the ball like you wrote probably cant draw the ball any other way. It is not a good way much less a better way to go about it.
Chuck

 

[Harvywallbanger]

I wouldnt bother with it. Learning to draw properly will serve you much better. Focus on as level of a cue as you can get, smooth stroke and a low hit. The speed is the thing that makes it or breaks it for most people. If you can deliver the cue through the ball at whatever speed you need to, you can draw the ball the length of the table too. Lots of folks cant stroke straight and fast, its a one or the other thing. If they try to draw normal with alot of speed, their accuracy goes out the window because they are so focused on the speed they do not throw the cue in a straight line. The guys you have seen draw the ball like you wrote probably cant draw the ball any other way. It is not a good way much less a better way to go about it.
Chuck

I believe he is asking about a jump/draw ..no???? As in a jump shot. Then drawing back after potting the ball.

 

[onepocketchump]

Hit the cueball below the equator with a firm stroke. Anytime your cuetip addresses the cueball it is aiming at a point that divides the cueball. If that point is on the lower half of the cueball if it were divided equally in half then you are applying reverse spin on the ball. You will need to practice with angle and speed to find the most effective combination for the shots you are trying. In essence though the jump draw is the same as the regular draw shot with the exception that the angle of approach to the cueball is elevated.

John

 

[mnShooter]

There is also the jump draw where you're not actually jumping over a ball. This is generally used when on the rail. It helps to not wear the spin off the cueball because it's in the air.

 

[mnShooter]

Hit the cueball below the equator with a firm stroke. Anytime your cuetip addresses the cueball it is aiming at a point that divides the cueball. If that point is on the lower half of the cueball if it were divided equally in half then you are applying reverse spin on the ball. You will need to practice with angle and speed to find the most effective combination for the shots you are trying. In essence though the jump draw is the same as the regular draw shot with the exception that the angle of approach to the cueball is elevated.

John

Are you using a full cue, jump cue, what kind of tip? I can't get any draw with my phenolic tip.

 

[onepocketchump]

Are you using a full cue, jump cue, what kind of tip? I can't get any draw with my phenolic tip.

The reason you aren't getting draw is that you are not hitting the cueball low enough nor firm enough. This requires a very practiced stroke.

I have a hard time getting draw consistently with a jump cue. This is because my stroke is inconsistent. My friend Chris is a solid shortstop and he can draw the cueball with a jump cue at will.

Obviously the spin will diminish rapidly with each bounce the cueball takes so that is something you have to account for. I have found that I get better results whenever I make the cueball jump with the absolute least amount of clearance I can get away with. The higher the cueball goes the harder it is to control.

John

 

[1hit1der]

I assume you're talking about a shot like this:

http://www.ericyow.com/videos/draw3railhug.wmv

I think everyone's covered it pretty well, elevate the butt of the cue, 40 or more degrees, aiming at 6 o'clock from the perspective of the cue, and stroke it like a serious draw stroke, which means remember to follow through. In Eric's video, he uses a touch of right english to keep the cue ball along the rail. Accuracy does start to become an issue, as people have mentioned before, but it can be overcome with enough practice (which I'm still working on).

The artistic pool players I've seen shoot it this way use a regular cue. If you actually have to clear a full ball or something, that might dictate otherwise.

 

[Flex]

The guys you have seen draw the ball like you wrote probably cant draw the ball any other way. It is not a good way much less a better way to go about it.
Chuck

These fellows are both very solid players. I won't give them a specific rating; suffice it to say that in a game of nine ball with a decent shot on the lowest numbered ball and a reasonably open table they are out at least 80-90% of the time. And they both can draw the rock a number of ways, and pull off shots people drop their jaws at.

 

[Flex]

I believe he is asking about a jump/draw ..no???? As in a jump shot. Then drawing back after potting the ball.

Jumping only in the sense that the cue ball leaves the table en route to the object ball, pots it, and then draws back down table, typically 6 or 7 diamonds or more.

 

[Flex]

Hit the cueball below the equator with a firm stroke. Anytime your cuetip addresses the cueball it is aiming at a point that divides the cueball. If that point is on the lower half of the cueball if it were divided equally in half then you are applying reverse spin on the ball. You will need to practice with angle and speed to find the most effective combination for the shots you are trying. In essence though the jump draw is the same as the regular draw shot with the exception that the angle of approach to the cueball is elevated.

John

Thanks so much; this may just be the ticket to get me doing this shot

 

[Flex]

There is also the jump draw where you're not actually jumping over a ball. This is generally used when on the rail. It helps to not wear the spin off the cueball because it's in the air.

Exactly the shot I'm asking about.

 

[Flex]

The reason you aren't getting draw is that you are not hitting the cueball low enough nor firm enough. This requires a very practiced stroke.

I have a hard time getting draw consistently with a jump cue. This is because my stroke is inconsistent. My friend Chris is a solid shortstop and he can draw the cueball with a jump cue at will.

Obviously the spin will diminish rapidly with each bounce the cueball takes so that is something you have to account for. I have found that I get better results whenever I make the cueball jump with the absolute least amount of clearance I can get away with. The higher the cueball goes the harder it is to control.

John

Tap, tap, tap!

 

[Flex]

I assume you're talking about a shot like this:

http://www.ericyow.com/videos/draw3railhug.wmv

I think everyone's covered it pretty well, elevate the butt of the cue, 40 or more degrees, aiming at 6 o'clock from the perspective of the cue, and stroke it like a serious draw stroke, which means remember to follow through. In Eric's video, he uses a touch of right english to keep the cue ball along the rail. Accuracy does start to become an issue, as people have mentioned before, but it can be overcome with enough practice (which I'm still working on).

The artistic pool players I've seen shoot it this way use a regular cue. If you actually have to clear a full ball or something, that might dictate otherwise.

That's the shot! Thanks for the video and the tips!

 

[Harvywallbanger]

Oh so your not even jumping a ball. I thought you were referring to clearing an object ball.

 

[RiverCity]

If you are on the rail and that is your only option.... that is one thing. But purposely jacking up when you dont have to, to draw the ball from a distance away...... thats suicidal. Your accuracy of aim goes way down as you are changing your body position, so that even if you try and keep your stroke in the same axis as your body you arent seeing the shot on the same plane you normally do.... too many things can go wrong with that shot. Its like aiming elevated over a ball, only there is no ball in the way. Doesnt make sense to me. A good level draw stroke can move the ball as well as if the cue was elevated, its adding something to the shot that doesnt need to be there (again, close to the rail is a different story).
Just my 2 cents.
Chuck

 

[Flex]

Oh so your not even jumping a ball. I thought you were referring to clearing an object ball.

No, it's not a shot necessarily to jump over a ball, but to make the cue ball jump a bit so as to not lose the reverse spin while going down table before hitting the object ball. Especially on a very slow table, it's probably the only way to make the shot, and draw the cue ball straight back way up table.

 

[Flex]

If you are on the rail and that is your only option.... that is one thing. But purposely jacking up when you dont have to, to draw the ball from a distance away...... thats suicidal. Your accuracy of aim goes way down as you are changing your body position, so that even if you try and keep your stroke in the same axis as your body you arent seeing the shot on the same plane you normally do.... too many things can go wrong with that shot. Its like aiming elevated over a ball, only there is no ball in the way. Doesnt make sense to me. A good level draw stroke can move the ball as well as if the cue was elevated, its adding something to the shot that doesnt need to be there (again, close to the rail is a different story).
Just my 2 cents.
Chuck

Thanks for the ideas, Chuck, especially about the change in axis and sight plane.

Believe me, on a very slow table, or even a regular table, especially with dirty balls, shooting a regular draw shot from one corner diagonally to the other, will be extremely difficult. What usually happens when I attempt it is that on probably 8 or 9 times out of 10 I'll not make contact squarely with the object ball even if it does pot and the result is the cue ball will slide left or right and contact a rail, and even if it does come back uptable is rarely coming straight back, which is necessary in some circumstances, or it will come back only a short distance, perhaps up to 3 diamonds, which can be way too short on some occasions.

Both these players, plus another who is a former touring pro, told me it's necessary to jack up at least a bit, (watching them it looks to be more than 30 degrees,) to get the cue ball down table to the object ball with enough spin left on it to draw it back.

While the need for this shot arises relatively seldom, when it does it is often the only way or perhaps the safest way to shoot the shot to get shape on another ball. Playing 9 ball with these fellows for 3 or 4 hours straight, this shot may come up once or twice or maybe three times. Althought it's obviously a specialty shot, at times it's a must do shot too, and can be a game winner.

Flex

 

[TheOne]

No, it's not a shot necessarily to jump over a ball, but to make the cue ball jump a bit so as to not lose the reverse spin while going down table before hitting the object ball. Especially on a very slow table, it's probably the only way to make the shot, and draw the cue ball straight back way up table.

You need to work on your mechanics/stroke, there is no reason why you need to jack up on this shot! That's just asking for trouble, I can't believe a touring pro has suggested this!