How do you play this shot?

KoolKat9Lives

Taught 'em all I know
Silver Member
I got this 10 ball table last night playing some cheap partners (GCIII).

As an additional question, would you play the same strategy if instead of a cheap gamble, you're hill hill for the US Open title?

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KK9 <-- would marry the WEI table if it had lips
 
Cheap sets. Go for the table length kick. The rail makes it play bigger.

US open. kick the 2 rail safe behind the 9.
 
Cheap sets. Go for the table length kick. The rail makes it play bigger.

US open. kick the 2 rail safe behind the 9.

I agree 100%.

Cheap sets are fun...so keep the game fun and kick away.

The US Open is a different story altogether, so the 2-rail safe is the way to go.
 
This is kind of a good example of a possible thin hit kick safe situation. Here's how I usually play these, aiming just to catch the edge of the 8.

Chris

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This is kind of a good example of a possible thin hit kick safe situation. Here's how I usually play these, aiming just to catch the edge of the 8.

Chris

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I think I like this option better. As long as you hit the 8 you are getting a good bit of separation. It might not be a jamb up safe but, to me there is less chance of selling the farm.
 
Tate, I like your idea. It's higher percentage of getting safe.

Thanks - I would like it more if the table was layed out a little better to make the thin kick safe here a little more natural.

I like Frank the Barber's philosophy - he says " play the safe to leave a safe for your opponent". His idea is to leave difficult banks or safes for your opponent to give them the opportunity to screw up and sell out. You may not hit a winner every time, but the idea is to sell-out and lose less.

Chris
 
Tate, I like your idea. It's higher percentage of getting safe.

When I was evaluating the safe option, this one rail kick was what I considered.

TXSouthpaw offered up the 2 rail option which I see as more difficult to execute and consequently IMO not as good as this 1 rail safe.
 
I think I like this option better. As long as you hit the 8 you are getting a good bit of separation. It might not be a jamb up safe but, to me there is less chance of selling the farm.

I know diagrams aren't meant to be exact but you have very little chance at getting the 8ball to the rail on this shot. At best, you'll split them up. If you're playing on Skyline's head table, this is definitely a good way to go. If you're playing on buckets, I think you're taking your chances.
 
This is kind of a good example of a possible thin hit kick safe situation. Here's how I usually play these, aiming just to catch the edge of the 8.

Chris

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I don't agree.

If you hit the 8 too thin, you sell out.
If you miss the 8 completely trying to hit it thin, you sell out.
If you hit it too thick, you double kiss and sell out.

At least with the 2 rail version, if you screw it up, you just leave a tough bank or a VERY long tough cut downtable.

Plus as Jude said, you can't get the 8ball to cut back to the lower cushion. It's impossible at that speed and angle.
 
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I don't agree.

If you hit the 8 too thin, you sell out.
If you miss the 8 completely trying to hit it thin, you sell out.
If you hit it too thick, you double kiss and sell out.

At least with the 2 rail version, if you screw it up, you just leave a tough bank.

Well, I wouldn't go that far. Even though I'd probably go this way, I know I can sell the farm here, too. There's definitely a foul-risk, hit it too thick and you can leave your opponent perfect. I mean, if you hit it exactly as you want, there's a reasonable chance to leave your opponent safe or tough but it's not fool-proof.
 
I know diagrams aren't meant to be exact but you have very little chance at getting the 8ball to the rail on this shot. At best, you'll split them up. If you're playing on Skyline's head table, this is definitely a good way to go. If you're playing on buckets, I think you're taking your chances.

I didn't like the %'s on any options, it's a layout that is a difficult proposition any way you address it.

I took the flyer and was fortunate enuf to kick it in and get out. I played it soft to avoid a possible scratch while hoping to get a shot on the 9 from below it. I don't know if hitting it soft was the right speed as it would never allow for any separation from the 8 in event of a miss. I viewed the scratch avoidance as more important than the separation.

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Is this how TXSouthpaw?


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Yep. Even if you dont hook em you leave em a table length cut all the way up table. Im a lefty so I can reach the shot easy. I always forget to include that in the equation. Right vs left makes for different choices sometimes. Not so much here but sometimes.
 
I think I like this option better. As long as you hit the 8 you are getting a good bit of separation. It might not be a jamb up safe but, to me there is less chance of selling the farm.

I think if the kick angle were more shallow (like the diagram below), I would be more apt to kick this way.

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I don't agree.

If you hit the 8 too thin, you sell out.
If you miss the 8 completely trying to hit it thin, you sell out.
If you hit it too thick, you double kiss and sell out.

At least with the 2 rail version, if you screw it up, you just leave a tough bank or a VERY long tough cut downtable.

Plus as Jude said, you can't get the 8ball to cut back to the lower cushion. It's impossible at that speed and angle.

I agree with you on all points here. The 1 rail safe is more dangerous. At least for me anyways. If you misjudge to rail at all you could miss the ball completely. and too thin is a sellout and a double hit is a sell out. I was always taught that more rails is usually better. and with the 8 being so close to a rail the 2 railer is easy to hit. If it was in the middle of the table itd be different
 
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