How do you remove the flash (light flash) from pictures of a pool cue?

I am sorry, was not sure if I should put this question here or in NPR section (but it is asking about how to take a good picture of a cue).

Can anyone tell me what all I would need to take good quality pictures of a cue (without the light that flashes onto a cue, and ruins the cues picture)?

Would I need some type of really good quality camera, or some type of special image editing software?

Just curious how the pro's take such excellent quality pictures of cues.

I am sure that I could not afford what is needed in order to take really good quality pictures, and maybe there is expertise (of a photographer) that is also needed (I do not know).

All that I have is this old 16mp point and shoot Nikon digital camera (that I picked up a long time ago at a pawn shop for like $30).

Is there any possible way to get good pool cue pictures using the old digital camera that I have?

I took these pictures today, and as you can see, the pictures look really bad.

Thanks.

For the purpose of selling cues I don't think your pictures are that bad.
 
FYI pool tables with overhead lights are not the best place to photograph a cue.

Like others have said, for easy, quick and detailed photos, I will often take pictures outside in daylight with the cue on a non reflective surface.
 
I disagree with you completely.

Justin could spot Thaiger the 7 and the breaks. His mastery of troll is almost surreal. I normally hate trolls but I have grown to appreciate Justin's posts, nothing like seeing a true master at work.

Thaiger/Pathetic Shark/Ron Swanson was awesome, but he played a little too much of one note with the imperious bit.

Push & Pool was also able to rabble rouse the crowd.

Justin has got that slow burn going on.
 
I am sorry, was not sure if I should put this question here or in NPR section (but it is asking about how to take a good picture of a cue).

Can anyone tell me what all I would need to take good quality pictures of a cue (without the light that flashes onto a cue, and ruins the cues picture)?

Would I need some type of really good quality camera, or some type of special image editing software?

Just curious how the pro's take such excellent quality pictures of cues.

I am sure that I could not afford what is needed in order to take really good quality pictures, and maybe there is expertise (of a photographer) that is also needed (I do not know).

All that I have is this old 16mp point and shoot Nikon digital camera (that I picked up a long time ago at a pawn shop for like $30).

Is there any possible way to get good pool cue pictures using the old digital camera that I have?

I took these pictures today, and as you can see, the pictures look really bad.

Thanks.
Is this the cue you're selling next?
 
Make sure it's on "auto" and you hold the button down half way for a moment to let the camera focus.

Phones now take decent pictures too.

Oh yeah, I had an iphone 4 for awhile a few years ago, until I lost it, and it took really great quality pictures.

The auto focus on this old Nikon camera is horrible. It will try to focus, but 99% of the time, it will end up up very blurry. I would like to get a manual focus digital camera someday. I bet they are expensive though.
 
I disagree with you completely.

Justin could spot Thaiger the 7 and the breaks. His mastery of troll is almost surreal. I normally hate trolls but I have grown to appreciate Justin's posts, nothing like seeing a true master at work.

you honestly think I am trying to be a troll?
 
Think of this in the setting of pool. You keep scratching, and everyone is giving you helpful advice, but ignoring it.

If you want your camera to take it's sharpest pictures, outside in bright daylight with the sun behind you.

Answering the question in the title of this thread. For pictures already taken, use photo editing software (Photoshop). As others pointed out, its easier to just re-take the pictures.
 
You need more light to give the camera sensor more information to work with. We've come far in good cameras in small devices, but we're still far away from night vision, especially on compact devices.This is why cameras come with flash.

Consider any reflective (finish on the cue/ball) surface as a sort of mirror. When your light source comes from the same angle as the viewer (the camera in this case), there will be a significant reflection coming straight back at it. If you take a flashlight and mimic the same angle, same result. Now take this flashlight, and move it off to the side. No more angle in that same position. The shiny part, or specular highlight, has moved off to the side, and as you increase angle, decreases in size as you approach the horizon.

On the subject of clouds and diffusion, think about a bedsheet hung vertically with a lamp on the other side. The whole bedsheet is illuminated, and you'd get some soft, fuzzy lighting. As far as you on the other side of the lamp are concerned, the bedsheet is the new size of the light source, at the cost of eating up some of the original brightness in exchange for increased surface area. This is proportionally similar to having a layer of clouds between you and the sun; the sweat on a forehead (technically a reflective surface) never seems to glint so much as in direct sunlight.

What you can do:

-Big light, big source of diffusion. Whether it be a floodlamp through a bedsheet, or a cloudy day.

- Change the angle between the camera source and the angle of light.
 
The first thing to do is not listen to anybody in the thread. The second thing to do is get yourself some off camera flash units and a way to trigger them. You'll probably never do this so maybe I should not even go on. But if you ever happen to do that, put your camera on a tripod and bounce one flash into the ceiling. Move the flash to another location, but still bouncing off the ceiling, and get another frame like that. Take those two frames into Photoshop. Put a black mask on top of the upper Photoshop layer. Look up on YouTube for how to do. Get a white brush and paint away the remaining reflection by painting on the black mask in the upper layer.

And if you keep on with studying this technique you will be taking photos like the pros because that's how they do it but they just get super into it and all the lighting kinda like we get into pool.
 
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The first thing to do is not listen to anybody in the thread. The second thing to do is get yourself some off camera flash units and a way to trigger them. You'll probably never do this so maybe I should not even go on. But if you ever happen to do that, put your camera on a tripod and bounce one flash into the ceiling. Move the flash to another location, but still bouncing off the ceiling, and get another frame like that. Take those two frames into Photoshop. Put a black mask on top of the upper Photoshop layer. Look up on YouTube for how to do. Get a white brush and paint away the remaining reflection by painting on the black mask in the upper layer.

And if you keep on with studying this technique you will be taking photos like the pros because that's how they do it but they just get super into it and all the lighting kinda like we get into pool.

I think this is the dumbest "expert" answer I've ever heard. Justin has a cheap, older camera and is trying to sell a few cues. Don't forget the light tent, filters, etc. Geeze...best answer is, don't listen to this guy.
 
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